Mopar1973Man

(Subscribed - Interesting thread - Carry on boys!)

Nope... Just pull them out about 1/2 inch to get the injector out and then push them back in...

That's good...

I got a pair of donaldson filters on there now...

So far they are runing prefect... Very smooth idle and lots of good power when you stomp the pedal to the carpet.Really changed the attitude of the running performance. Like ISX had done is soaked injector overnight in solvent and nothing happen... So now I tend to believe that most injector cleaner are incapable of removing any kind of gum or varnish on the pintle that gets cooked on the pintle. If you want it done right you just got to break them down and clean them by hand.As for #5 I double check it ID on OD and it a prefect match... But it showed me there is no way to interchange part of a injector with another injector...

I'm curious wha the trailer does next...

About 1,600 RPM's 5 Speed NV4500 Same here... My 4th gear is exactly the same as your OD locked out. Actually the peak of the torque curve is there but economy comes at lower RPM's according to Cummins. Correct... So yes you want to travel at a safe speed for the trailer which most trailer tire are only rated up to 65 MPH. so 55-60 MPH is a safe zone for hauling. But your still high enough in the RPM's to create plenty of torque. So like when I start pulling a grade I'll drop a gear and bounce the tach up to 2K and hold it and watch the EGT's if it manageable I hold it if it still rising then drop another gear and kick up to 2K and hold again. So far I've never had to pull any lower than 3rd.

Nothing on the check ball... I was stuck to the spring again and it fell off before I could get a picture of it wedge on spring. So I took a pair of pilars and slightly bent the last coil on each end in a oval shape just every so slight to hopefully stop this from happening.

Biodiesel not available out here.

He needs it... But its all good I would kick his ar$e and then show him around the neighborhood...

Use backing nuts and make the top nut flush with the threads and then it won't touch the BHAF... (Heat shield required)

I should know better... But would you believe it I don't think there is any cheap hairspray here at the house.

Sound like someone found you a odometer CajFlynn... :lmao:Time for another 999,999 again...

Not Me... I won't wear those things...

Just slightly smaller on the ID of the washers... Not much...

Well I finally got around to cleaning up my RV275 injectors again... I've always had a random misfire problem with them at idle, only when hot. Finally got bad enough that I couldn't deal with it any more. I yanked them out and stuck in my stock injectors. In the mean time, I went out and bought a digital caliper for the tool box. So I figured I would pull them apart and measure the pintle needle, copper washer thickness, and spring shim.Kind of shocked at a few injectors... [TABLE=align: center][TR][TD]Copper Shim (Inch)[/TD][TD]Pintle thick end (Inch)[/TD][TD]Pintle thin end (Inch)[/TD][TD]Spring Shim (Inch)[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0545[/TD][TD]0.1570[/TD][TD]0.1270[/TD][TD]0.0755[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0525[/TD][TD]0.1570[/TD][TD]0.1270[/TD][TD]0.0690[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0535[/TD][TD]0.1570[/TD][TD]0.1270[/TD][TD]0.0630[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0535[/TD][TD]0.1570[/TD][TD]0.1265[/TD][TD]0.0710[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0535[/TD][TD]0.1520[/TD][TD]0.1215[/TD][TD]0.0675[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0540[/TD][TD]0.1570[/TD][TD]0.1265[/TD][TD]0.0675[/TD][/TR][/TABLE] Now #5 in the list has a strange sized pintle and nozzle. I verified the ID of the nozzle bore and the OD of the pintle and its a true fit of both. But looking at the part and how exact they must be to work properly, I went back through and cleaned them all and reassembled all 6 injectors. Then installed them in the truck and Man talk about a change. I was really really picky about them this time and actually checked all the measurements and made sure all the pintles and nozzles were spotless. So I'm back to running the RV275 injectors...

Here you go gang... I changed filter early because of a fuel pressure problem... So I desided to cut open the filters to show you...Fleetguard FF5613 filter open and exposed...Fleetguard FF5613 media or filter element... (3 micron)AirDog 150 water Seperator and prefilter opened and exposed.AirDog Prefilter media or filter element... (100 micron?)

Here we go... My AirDog Removed and laying on the workbench.Here is the standard check ball and spring setup.Here is my setup with 2 shiming washers to increase pressure.Here is one washer laying on top of the fitting.Here is the washer slid a little to show it.Here is how I install the fitting and washers to keep them lined up.With a little time and clean up... I'm back to 20 PSI idle and 18 PSI WOT...To this day I don't know what causes this check ball to misaligned with the spring or jaming the check ball down into the coils of the spring but I know if I take the time and remove the check ball and blow the port out with compressed air it will work for many more months till one day the pressure falls off and a filter check doesn't fix it...

All new clamps and boots... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Intercooler-Boot-Kits-p/icb2.htm List Price: $225.00 Our Price: $179.99 You save $45.01!

I'll tell you they sure do hold on the air horn tight... Wow! Just tried to pull the air horn loose today... Took a bit of effort to get it loose..

Changing injectors is rather easy... [*]Remove the intake horn and grid heater [*]Remove APPS sensor [*]Cover the air tube and manifold with duct tape to prevent things/debris from falling in. [*]Remove the valve cover. [*]Loosen a injector line and using a small screwdriver carefully pry out the connector tube inside about 1/2". [*]Remove the 8mm bolt in the injector cover. [*]Remove injector cover. [*]Using a air horn bolt screw it in the center of the injector [*]Pull striaght up to remove the injector. [*]Re-assemble with new injector. [*]Do the other 5 cylinders. The article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=61:injectors-removal&catid=25&Itemid=107

Yes... There is a water seperator and 100 micron prefilter... New filter was installed less than 1,000 miles ago. That's my thought I think either the spring is allow the check ball to squeeze down in the coils again... Or the spring is simply getting tired...

Ok Gang...While I was out on my camping trip and hauling around my 31' Jayco Eagle Travel Trailer I had some weird fuel pressure problems occuring. Start up cold and get 17.5 just about 18 PSI at a idle and then pull the grade up to New Meadows, ID still holding 16 PSI which is normal and fine. But now as the day got hotter and we got down around Council, ID the pressure fell off to 12.5 at WOT and idled at 15 PSI. Hua??? While I was stopped the at one place I played with bumping the starter and you can see 17-18 PSI and then hear a change in pump pitch and the pressure fall again to 15 PSI. It's like the check ball is hanging up again. So I'm going to pull it back apart and double check again. So later on down the road I pick up fuel I figured I add a extra few ounce of 2 cycle oil than typical. Well the pressure went right back up to normal 17-18 PSI at idle and remain normal the rest of the day with no problems.(Enjoying our camping)Now hitched back up early morning and started my way back out of Lowman, ID and got good strong fuel pressure. But by the time I got to Banks, ID the fuel pressure was starting a to fall again. It went back down to the 12-15 PSI range again. On a few other stops I play again with bumping the start and sure enough yo can see 17 PSI for a burst of a second or two and then falls with change of pitch of the pump. I wondering if the fuel temperature is effecting the check ball and spring some how that its not working properly? Because with cold fuel its working fine but as a soon as the fuel warms up it sinks in pressure? :shrug:Yes... I got a fresh set of donaldson filters on my truck and no change with that...