Mopar1973Man

Hey Gang...I dove off the deep end and created a dual boot computer with Linux (CentOS) and Windows Vista. So far I'm enjoying the Linux over the Windows... It's nice not have to worry about anti-virus software, firewalls, etc... Linux is such a rock solid operating system and works wonderful. There is things I'm still learning about Linux like installing programs, and such but with a little time and reading I'll bone up on how to do it right... So far like as I post this message I'm fired up on the Linux stystem and its so much faster than Windows...

The only sources of fuel in the oil would be from the front seal on the VP44 injection pump or injector problem. Because the connector tube seals against the injector in the tappered hole and the high pressure line seals against the connector tube. So then you got the copper shim and the O-ring seal the rest. So if the pintle needle is not sealing in the injector that mean the injector would fire early and spray on the cylinder wall causing the possible fuel in the oil problem just like Common Rail injectors do when they fail.So I highly suggest you could taking the injectors back out and having them pop teste and be sure there functioning properly. Because continued use will do damage to the cylinders, rings and bearing of the engine. (Just like Common Rail Engines).

I also just picked up a Harbor freight ball joint press too... Yeah I know it China made but at least it better than beating them out with a hammer.

Now replacement is dealing with the failure but you still haven't dealt with the cause of failure yet... Reason why 3rd generation common rail injectors fail is because of the fuel filter system is poor. If you upgrade to 2 micron filter it should keep your injectors in good health. The small debris that pass a stock filter acts like a sandblaster and erodes the seat inside the inector that controls the firing. So what happen the injectors start to leak and hard starting start to occur because the CP3 can't build rail pressure fast enough.

P0572 low voltage detected at the brake switch (Cruise control problem)P0628 low voltage detected at the fuel lift pump (Engine Performance problem)P2509 powerdown data lost errorP0533 a/c sending unit volts too high

Come to Idaho... No safety inspections here and out of state welcomed... Smog check are only done in large city areas...

I've got the old school draw straw and just got back from Boise, ID where I ran my tank all the way down to 1/16 of tank with a old school draw straw from AirDog 150 with no sucking air problems.

Vinyl floor be careful with... All the truck I worked on that had vinyl flooring typical would hold water in the padding and the rot out the floor on the driver side. Like after a winter season you might pull a door trim and lift the vinyl and check to see if the padding is soaked.

Like myself I run my Edge Comp 5x5... If you learn to drive in the high setting you should see higher MPG number but you have all the power you want at the touch of the throttle...

Well I made my run down to Boise ID/Ontario OR and pulled roughly 12.8 MPG with the MPG fooler in place and set for 140*F. Not to mention having the water tank on the trailer loaded both directions (466# more). Now I know most of you can pull better number with +15,000# GCW but here in Idaho everything is up and down hills and twist and turns. So I'm tickled to death to pull this much weight and get nearly 13 MPG going from as low as 1,500 feet to as high as 4,800 feet in places. I would like to say thanks to Caj... Another secret... Set a high mark boost limit and hold to it. Like I know I can set my cruise for 60 MPH and climb iany grade I want. Boost will nearly smack the pin at 32-33 PSI. Like Caj told me be nice to your ride and limit you climbing boost to 20 PSI. Well I tried it and you climb most grades in a grade lower but pyrometer temps are roughly 300*F cooler and fuel usage is less. Like Midvale grade climbing over it I'd drop from 5th gear to 4th (direct 1:1) and run it up to about 1,900 which in turn puts me at 45-50 MPH and it just walks right on over the grade. Now mind you. All this travel I've done with my Edge Comp on 5x5 which even says is too mach and will cause pyormeter problems or clutch problems. None of the above... Ran great and never had a problem with pyrometer heat at all if you use a 20 PSI boost limit. Now just pouring the fuel it by the time I get to 4th gear I'm heading to 1,000*F once I get to 5th I can push that pyrometer as far as I want past 1,200*F but that's just plain wasteful. So letting it sag back 1 gear and climbing in 4th is excellent. Funny part is I get people whizzing around me like I'm a big semi truck. I drive this way because fuel is expensive and it sure nice to be able to go farther with less fuel... So you have to use the slow lane... So what... So people get a bit impatient with you holding up traffic... so what... But it's priceless to haul that much weight and do it for less...

... Or back to the basics of a fuel pressure gauge...

Been done this road myself with GD... If you straight forward and tell them what you think and how you feel I'm sure they will react properly. When the send you the email on how they performed about your trouble ticket just be honest and explain in the ticket. Once again the tech stay after the site for a period of time.

Hmmm... That's truely odd they just upgraded servers about a month ago... But I'll get after LiveOak with a PM and tell him to look it over.... I'm not exactly at home yet...:banghead:

There is a few good reason why I moved out of Cally... (Land of Fruits and Nuts) EPA, CARB, etc...

Califorina has one of the tightest emission standard around.

http://youtu.be/bZbvTxJEiKU

No I didn't write it down... As a matter of fact I didn't happen to see the plate on the gear case like the ISB's... Is there another location?

Well I'm coming up on 100K of use... Just need 2k miles... So far not a single issue as of yet... VP44 is at 133K and still pumpin' strong... As for the thread over on CF.com it was a monster it was finally closed after like 125 pages worth of thread. I will give credit to Dorkweed for finding the idea... But I guess I was the pack mule that bought it home...

Hey Gang... I've got a local guy here in Idaho that owns a semi-truck without trailer that has a issue with the Road Speed Governor. It limits the truck out to about 60 MPH and that's as fast as the truck will go. Does anyone know how to fix this issue on a Cummins ISM? Also the truck is for sale $4,900 bucks, fresh rubber and looks good... It's a old Food Service of America truck.

How about 4/28/11 it snowed...

Thank you for confirming that...

The only this about that article I don't agree with... I still recommend that you hold to the factory values... Strange part is that Bosch will not warranty a pump with diaphragm damage. And even BC admits... http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/fassinfo.html This is the only problem I got with BC articles is the fact he's touted the 5 PSI for racing reasons that even excepted that as a base minimum values. Pump failures sored... But if you read carefully all of BC testing work is for the performance market. There is no solid testing in longevity of the VP44. So all I can say is becareful how you read his articles. Like the statement above there is nothing stated on that page of how long the VP44 would last... Like to agree with his statement above... This will keep the overflow OPEN this WILL increase fuel flow through the VP44 and maximize the cooling a lubing effects of the fuel. Since the overflow valve opens at 14 PSI I've been using this a "Suggested Low Pressure". The thing is we are looking to get the most life from our VP44 not HP/TQ.

ASD (Automatic Shut Down) Relay in is in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) under the hood. I would check and see if the relay is lose or corroded up..

Drat... The weather got me pinned for about 1-2 weeks till the wind lets up... :banghead:

Comments in blue... The only thing left is to go to a dealer and let them use there $6000 DRBIII tool and tell you if the speed sensors are working (or not) and the ABS computer is working (or not). But I'm going to say there is a mis-match in sensors yet. Because if the ABS computer was actually out the speedometer would be dead... Speed sensor -> ABS computer -> CCD Network -> Instrument panel -> Speedometer Also remember the ABS/BRAKE light will not reset till the vehicle is moving.