Mopar1973Man

Hey Gang... Could you give me a moment over here??? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3796-Facebook-Link...

Just sad... I'd never just give I'm busy line to anyone... Poor management of time... :banghead:

I don't think so... I'll look at my 2002 and my 1996 and see...

On the fuel rail there is a schraider valve push the pin in and check and see if there is fuel in the rail after you cranked it a bit. Then pop the distributor cap and check the rotor closely... I found a 1991 F150 that burned right through the rotor into the shaft a small pin hole. But suggestion just do a full tune up on it... Cap, rotor, spark plug, and fue filter... You might run across your problem during the tune up...

Give you a thought... My old 1976 Dodge Jamboree 20' Motorhome got me $500 on trade in... Gassernomore is right tap the NADA guide and see what they are giving...

Yeah I agree need to check out the entier front axle... Wheel bearing, tire balancing, ball joints, etc... Since its a 4WD check all your driven axles and front driveshaft. For the front driveshaft you'll have to remove it to check the double joint back by the transfer case...

Another view... You want to be on the rear port... 4, 5, and 6... This is suppose to be the hot batch... Not to mention if you use high idle 3 cylinder you can still monitor your temps. 1, 2, and 3 and dead and cold in 3 cylinder high idle...

Any line between the pump and the fuel tank is a suction line. Being that during run the suction line will draw air in easy. Then when the vehicle is parked the line continues to suck air into the line causing the primed fuel lines to drain back into the fuel tank so the next time you start the truck it pushes the air buibble into the VP44 and makes it impossible to start. Take a blow gun and a rug and pressurize the fuel tank with about 1-2 PSI and have a buddy look over the fuel system for leaks. WARNING! Don't get to crazy with air pressure it can blow fittings about and do damage to the tank! You only need 1 to 2 PSI at the most! This will pressuze the entire system and if there are leaks it will show. Most common leak is the quick connect fitting on the stock sender. I normally tell people not to use the fitting in the kit and just to hose clamp on the hose directly to the sender. Or avoid the whole problem and move over to a Drawstraw and be done...

Yeah... I'm getting ready to do my evaporator the second time now... What yo can do is get the UV dye pack and add it to the system and keep a close eye on the under hood plumbing with a blacklight looking for the dye. But in my case I can never find any dye pack under the hood so the only play left is the HVAC under the dash which hold the evaporator. Thankfully NAPA evaporators have a lifetime warranty!

Yeah I do... Thanks for reminding me... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm (Bottom of the page)

Air in the fuel... Are you sucking in air from the suction line???

Well its fixable... That's all that matters...

PCM... The one on the passenger firewall is the one that controls the field... What you need to do is find out of if the blue wire has power and the green should be ground. If the crank sensor is not working right (tach) then the alternator will not charge. How about the alternator fuse in the PDC...??? There is a patch for ya... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-reg/voltage-reg.htm

Slow leak for sure... Start adding freon on the low side till the low side pressure is 35-40 PSI compressor running solid. Then rev the engine to 1,500 RPM and hold and check the pressure during this time to be sure its not pulling lower if so add a bit more freon till the compressor hold tight at 35-40 PSI low side. But more here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/hvac/recharge/recharge.htm

Sounds like a weak lift pump... Or something else is wrong with it... If the lift pump is truely working it should of been spraying fuel out all over the place..

That's too bad... Hopefully he's got insurance...

Gotta roll down the windows just to warm up right???

Try pulling your MPG fooler temporarily and see if it is causing this effect...

Your bad JL give you helper the worse of everything right???

I asked the same thing and Caj told me it was just way too much tongue weight and BOOM! You'll have to bug him for more details of the wild story.

Now don't buy a new alternator you can get rebuilds for it... Shop around I'm sure there is parts for it to save you some $$$... But I'm glad it worked for you...

Hmmm... Did you try the cluster test to verify the gauge cluster? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/cluster/cluster.htm Then did you check for error codes to see if it gave a clue to what failed? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

I'm posting for CaJFlynn some of his trailers and boats he's hauling... (Emailed to me)

Central Texas you won't even need a grid heater... Here next month I'll disconnect mine again. As for the mine comes on for a brief bulb check and goes right back out. The the WTS bulb is damaged it will throw a error code for it...

While you at it tell them where home is!!!