Mopar1973Man

So I gathered you got it all calibrated properly.

How much fuel is in the tank? If the tank is below 1/2 a tank its still possible on hard launches to suck a air bubble into the system and the pressure to fall and them pop back up. Try filling the tank if you can and try again. I bet it goes a way.

No need for additive just change the coolant every 30K miles... Now if you think you can extend this and get away with it I suggest you don't because as coolant ages it turn basic or acidic which at first will not change the color of the coolant but by the time you do see a change it too late. So if you hold to the recommended 30K change schedule you block and radiator will look like mine in 5 years...

Green piece I know you need the wiring diagram... So here is a upgrade to your account so you can download the 2002 wiring diagram which should help you trace out whats going on...

This is the point of history where the in-tank lift pump was designed and used for all 98.5 and up trucks... (Making matter worse) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/pdf/IntankPumpExposed.pdf

Boost gauge is fine... Fuel pressure you got to use a 0-30 PSI fuel pressure... Because 15 PSI isn't going to move the needle much on a 100 PSI gauge... EGT's you want a 0-1600*F pyrometer... As for company take a peak at the manufacture listing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

Since my towing is seasonal during the winter months I drop the pressures down because a softer tire has better traction on ice and snow. But come summer time and it wood hauling season and camping I'll be dragging a trailer around most of the time so I air the up and leave them.

Excessive oil level points to failed injector(s)... Hard starting points to leaking injector(s) because the CP3 can't build enough rail pressure...

Here is the switch... Best guess is the white piece on top slides out and allows for removal... But if the clutch safety is still working for the starting then the cruise cancel should too... Same switch drives both.

The only weak spot I know of for the CR series engines is the injectors and the lift pump. Injectors requires super clean fuel 2-3 micron fuel filter. As for engine wise when common rail injectors go out it can do serious piston and cylinder damage with major blow by. The stock lift pumps are weak and can't keep up with the demand volume wise. Sad but true a set of 6 common rail injectors cost more than 1 VP44 injection pump.

He's on vacation for a short span remember the beach pictures?

Always... Post up all the information you can... The more the merrier... Videos, pictures, explaining how to do it...

That's what we are here for is try to help out in any way we can... If it means getting to your knees and saying a few prayers for people so be it... I'm glad he's home and doing better... He's got a tough one there to over come but I'm sure he can do it...

Another way of doing it... Go to Google and type in what your looking for them add... site:forum.mopar1973man.com So it should look like... trans temp gauge site:forum.mopar1973man.com Or here is the link... http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&biw=1676&bih=879&q=trans+temp+gauge+site:forum.mopar1973man.com&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=d69cd41469f6341d I'm working on learning how to add a Google search to the forum since I already got one for the static pages...

I think bus bias comes from the PCM...

Hence why I mention it... Because if that is a known failure then you got to be careful with how much timing and such your messing with. (Propane / Methanol)

Unknown yet... The trouble is there is no way of seeing the VP44 timing value. But I know where people have stacked Edge Comp and Smarty both with timing and ended up eating a piston...

That the difference some people haul trailers daily and some remain empty most times. So tire pressure should be adjusted for weight difference or the heaviest load expected.

As for the compressor rebuilt... I don't know... As for Compressor removal its simple... Drain the system, pull the belt, pull the 1 bolt holding the lines on and then pull the 4 bolts out that hold it to the engine. New seals can be had at NAPA for about $11 buck and it allows for all them to be replaced...

Finally catching up with me eh?

High pressure switch on the line near the compressor and then the low pressure switch on the accumulator can.

I'm running 60 PSI front and 40 PSI rear... You might try this idea... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3949-Tire-Pressure-Calculator

If the sender is functioning properly the should come on at 1/8 of tank. So if you sender never reports 1/8 tank then the light will never come on... Simple as that..

Kind of reminds me of the Chevy 1 ton fire truck we have in the fire dept here. Its a 3 speed manual transmission with 3.27 gears. It so tall legged than 3rd gear is worthless come to any hill or grade. and Your stuck in 2nd... I thing what would happen it you'd reach the same gear ratio but the overlap of gear would be lost...

It could be a damper problem you can remove the 4 bolts and check the alignment of both halves... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/maintenance/damper/damper.htm Or it could be flywheel / torque converter getting loose... A few things to look into