Mopar1973Man

Optimal coolant temp is between 190-210*F... 215*F will set a error code for overheat...

Too late... I've got all 4 ball joints (2 upper and 2 lower) and a new track bar coming all for a total price of $166.25 (including frieght) Thing is I got 183K miles from the stock track bar I hardly doubt I need to invest in a Luke's link... I'm not running oversized tires as a matter of fact I'm running undersized tires. Now as for the tracbar its got a 5 year warranty and 60K miles... (not a Moog - RevoTech)

Well I would NOT suggest doing below manufacture designed air pressures listed in the owners manual of the truck. Like currently I've been running 60 PSI in the front and 40 PSI in the rear for some time now... It was alway strange because I typically inflated for profile appearance of the tire vs. weight anyways. I grab the camera and give you all a few photos...

I just ordered the ball joints and track bar for my truck... I've got 183K miles and this will be my first re-work of the front end...

Well after playing around with Excel and doing some thinking. I figured out how to figure exactly how much air pressure you need in each tire. The thing is that you need to get your truck weighed on a truck scale. The calculator needs front axle and rear axle weights. Then you'll need the weight rating of your tire and maximum air pressure rating. Then you plug the information into the calculator (blue boxes) and it will figure out when your optimal tire pressure is. Since I just weighed my truck I left my figures in the boxes as samples... Information Front Axle 4,420 Rear Axle 3,040 GAWR Front Axle 5,200 Rear Axle 6,084 Tire Max Tire Weight 3,042 Max Air Pressure 80 PSI Calculation (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Max Weight x Tire Max PSI = Inflate Pressure Front Axle = (4,420 / 2) = 2,210 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58 PSI Rear Axle = (3040 / 2) = 1,520 / 3,042 = 0.49 x 80 = 40 PSI Tire Air Pressures.xlsx

Only flash you might have to deal with is VIN numbers...

How I did it was use a rubber tipped blow gun and place it on the nipple of the high side fitting and load er' up. 100 PSI and get soaping the system. If you have enough air in the system it will cycle the compressor and circulate the oil and UV dye so if you wanting to use the blacklight and look again go for it.

Well I'm with you Russ... I done a step more... As for electricity I got the inverter, batteries, solar, pelton wheel, etc... I must live within 30 amps of load. I've got no choice. We intenially set the limit on the inverter so we would cut back on power useage and love it. As for the vehicles I'm notices my fuel logs getting wider and wider time spans between fuel. 3-4 weeks before I get fuel for the Cummins. Then 2-3 months before I get fuel for the 96 Dodge gasser. But I keep looking for the way now to do more in a single run. Like friends of mine here we are getting trailers built up. I might get a 1 ton axle for my 8x8 trailer allowing me to haul closer to 2 cords on the trailer and 1 cord on the truck. My friend is also converting to a Dodge Cummins as a matter of fact he's buying Taz's turck (1 ton 2WD 92 Dodge Cummins). Both families need roughly 12-15 cords of wood and we are now looking to get as much wood in a single run.

5 Speed NV4500 and Automatic Transmissions where a 235 horsepower 460 foot pounds of torque engine... 6 Speed NV5600 was a 245 horsepower and 505 foot pounds of torque engine... There was differences in the ECM for all transmissions. Like the Automatic transmission didn't have the idle governor like the manuals. Then the 5 speed and 6 speeds had a minor difference in the software fueling and timing.

But when you doing you math make sure to include the gallons of propane too.

Can't hold down a good Cummins I guess... But the owner is a bit... But we know its all...

Check Engnie Light might be gone but the code will remain for 40 warm up cycles so still check the codes...

My prayers are with your Dad your family...

Yeap Wild & Free is correct... It might be so for a gasoline engine but not for the Cummins diesel its just 2 bolts...

Most came with standard diff as far as I know... If you look under the hood (on the actual hood) or in the glove box there should be a sticker stating type of driveline installed.

Boy that's a insane amount of weight... I think I stay at about 20K GCW and call it good...

Get worse here (New Meadows, ID)... $4.399 for diesel and heading up again soon...

Normal its siphoning from the fuel tank. All you need to do is drain enough to get the water out. few ounces...

It all about temperature... What ever way you want to do it just keep the direct sunlight off them in the summer time. (Some states are goofy about windshield tinting...)

Yeap you got to drill and use screw or bolts...

Nice setup... But I'm going to warn you that the ScanGauge doesn't like bright hot sun... It will damage the display if heated to much on a hot summers day. So if your slick use a window shade or create a cover for your diplays so the sun doesn't damage them. Hence why mine is under the edge of the dash bezel.

Another missing step... 4. What is the reported IAT temperature from the ECM? If the IAT sensor is bad and reporting unnormally high temperature then the grid heater are cancelled completely. I've seen one other report where a owner was seeing with a live data tool the IAT temp was 120*F on a -20*F morning... Of course the ECM takes this value and processes accordingly and not use the grid heaters. Like on my truck with the MPG fooler on my IAT is set permanently at 140*F and my grid heater are disabled...

That's the problem just our trucks (diesel) are limited. But since I do own a gasser too I can access the other sensors on it just fine. As for the 03 and up the work fine too. It just the 98.5 to 02 Dodge's that are limited is sensors readings... I'm trying to get a some time and talk to the coder at ScanGauge and hopfully make a corrected MAP sensor gauge.

Well I don't believe in the straw in the module... Mine is the old fashion straw in the tank and never had a 1/4 tank issue. I can suck it right down to the empty mark on the gauge without a problem.

Here is the write up of it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2856-DIY-Pinion-Seal-Replacement-Dana-80