Mopar1973Man

Don't jump yet... I'm playing with different values and check to see the results of each. Then I might even try plugging the sensor back in and try that too... Got a funny feeling that will reduced the number slightly when the sensor is cold.

Tidbit of playing... I've now tuned down to 110*F as the weather warmed up and gaining even more MPGs... Like I said this only the design phase I'm playing with the temp setting and see the result differences... I'm closer to 23.5 to 24 MPG making a trip to New Meadows, ID to get propane. No topper! Winter fronts are now off for the season.

On rare occasions mine does the same thing but very very rare...

I'm prayin' for ya...

I think the whole problem of these bearing is the lubricant they use in them and how much. That is the only thing I hate about those bearing is there fact there is no way to pump more grease into them as a maintenance thing.

Can't knock a good diesel... (You tell him ISX)

Actually you're backwards... Center the wheels on the ground then adjust the turnbuckle till the steering wheel is straight again. Since the tire aren't going to move at all but the steering wheel has no resistance...

Well I done screwed up really good this time... I screwed up linux playing around and thought just re-install and all will be good again. I forgot to set the boot drive in BIOS so when the install ran it installed on the drive for linux but it re-wrote the boot sector on my windows drive. :banghead: After fighting with it for a while and getting the boot sector recovered then I managed to install it properly so GRUB is now my boot loader for both Windows (default) and Linux. So now I can flip flop back and forth... Still having problems with installing software like Java, Adobe flash, etc... Always seem like there is something new and different by each software designer. Rather annoying. What is worse is the instructions on installing never work for me... Then when I get it to work then I wonder did I install in the right folder? Most times not... Frustrated but still trying to learn... Like I think I figured out *.bin is like windows *.exe files... (Not sure)

Correct this is a old school Airdog Short Box bracket which is no longer produced. I'm hoping my conversation with AirDog will bring that into production... (wishful thinking)

Must not be very big trailer... :shrug:Even my 30 feet Jayco Eagle weighs in at roughly 7,200# with a GCW of 15,020# with the truck. So far I've not done much better than about 13 MPG towing my beast around. Even towing my 8x8 utility trailer with a cord of firewood I only get 14-16 MPG...

Hint hint... As for filter I've been down to -25*F with 2 micron and still no issues with gelling or plugging...

Rear cab taillight is leaking. As for carpet I give you a trick. Yank all the capet out and then take a power washer to it with a mild fan tip and washer the carpets out you'll be surprise how clean they get. Now knowing the stock carpet has padding glued to it you could power wash it and put the carpet down then the vinyl on top. Then you got sound deader...

I've got no switch on mine at all... But I've got no grid heaters either because the IAT temp is 140*F all the time. So yeah if you got the switched unit from Prowelder I would leave it off and let the engine warm up a mile or so and then kick it on then you can get grid heaters for cold start and then flip over to the fooler...

My truck on the scale this year at 4,460# for the front axle divide by 2 and 2,230# per bearing...

There is a center adjustment on the link from the pitman arm of the steering box to adjust steering wheel center that would help...

Hmmm... Carbon will burn at 1,000*F so if you can get you exhaust temps to 1,000*F and hold it for about 4-5 miles they should be cleaned up. Just climbing my way up the canyon here to New Meadows, ID empty I see 800-900*F on a regular basis. Even the Dodge FSM for the 6.7L requires exhaust temps of better than 1,000*F to burn the carbon out of the DPF filter. Yeah I know you're just 5.9L CR but the principal is the same.

Strange... My IAT sensor is not even hooked up I've got a 2.2K ohm resistor stuffed in the plug so the temp is always 140*F in the manifold so it never sees a rise or fall...

I seen the WINE but wasn't to sur about it... So once again its about installing another apps for linux... :banghead: I'll get it yet...

Man... I think I'm going to be following you down the same path. After the second evaporator now and lost my A/C AGAIN! :banghead: Now you mention UV glasses where did you pick them pu at? Because I've been hunt for my leak I've got a funny feeling the compressor is my problem...

Ok... That makes sense... Now what base is CentOS from then? So then I know to study up on a particular syntax.

Yeah I can see the horsepower in the software its just a matter of having a good set of documents to lead you through the nightmare of learning linux. I can see it was well designed and very secure product. But when you looking in the Help on installing a program you can find nothing because the syntax of Linux is all different. It's like learning a whole new language first before being able to even run the software. So I'm at the point of just beating the trash out of this CentOS and findout what works and what doesn't. Play with till I break it then re-install and do it again. Eventually I figure it out...

More and more I play with Linux the more I'm starting to like it. There is thing that are difficult to grasp but I'm continuing to read and trying to learn how it all works. So if you guys have some things to help me out I'm all ears to learning...

I had a simular problem with mine... As the trailer was level I would always have a pool of water inside on top of the slide roof. Come to find out the rain gutter above the slide had a minor gap and allowed the water to seep in on the slide and pool up. First way I comfirmed that was drop the tongue jack really low putting about 4" drop on the tongue from level. The pool never showed. So I ran a bead of clear silcone on the mounting edge of the rain gutter and small bead on the screw heads and problem gone now.So in Russ case it might be sloped left to right causing the water to over fill a window gutter... (Edumacated guess )At any rate you might look over the windows closely... Using compressed air and blowing the tracks out and be sure the drain holes are not plugged up. Might also look at the upper edge of the windows on the outside and be sure is not leaking through the exterior skin. Most RV's use butyl tape to seal the windows and over the years it tends to dry out and crack. RV dealers suggest you remove the windows and re-do the butyl tape and re-install... Me I took a putty knife and cut the squeezed out tape off, cleaned with de-greaser and then ran a bead of clear silcone around the windows. Turned out really nice. Bad part about water leaks is that they can start anywhere and run a long ways in the water before coming out. (Been reading over at RV.net)

+1 No kidding...

I see this all the time where a "ASE Trained Dodge Dealer Tech" tells tales of the new and improved lift pump in the tank meets the requirements. It does explain how the Factory service manual requires 70% of return fuel. How can this happen when the overflow valve closes at 10 PSI. So if the new improved lift pump is 10 PSI or less spell out failure for you new VP44 injection pump. You might want to send him over to the fuel pressure page here. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm