Mopar1973Man

A little secret about ScanGauge II they are comming out with a update software and design that allows it to be used as a data logger so after you done running a trip or such with the ScanGauge II you can unplug it take in the house plug in your USB cord and download the data from the ScanGauge II and graph it out... The other thing I love is the XGauge function of ScanGauge II which is cool for other vehicle where you can program a long list of different gauges. I'm not sure that UltraGauge has this function... http://www.scangauge.com/support/pdfs/XGAUGE.pdf

Thank you for the kind comments...

No one's laughing at you... (Valid question - That's the only way you'll learn is by asking questions! ) But a track bar is a bar that holds the 4WD front axle center in the springs. Its got a ball stud on the driver side and the passenger side of the axle has a bushing. But the driver side ties to the frame. Passenger side ties to the axle. As the track bar wears out the ball stud start to move and the axle start to shift left to right in the coil springs causing a pull to the right. (At least in my case). Here is my youtube vid of it... (Watch the bar and the axle)

Sounds like mine now... Well I'm doing the foot work looking for a cheap track bar now... ---- Searching.... Well after digging the internet... NAPA at $82 locally. (Only got a 12 month or 12K mile warranty) RockAuto.com $52 but here is the kicker Mevotech has a 5 year or 100,000 km warranty... Hmmm And even check in Ontario, OR toady and they wanted $150 for there Chinese cheapy...

Real nice there...

Well the only good thing about the AirDog, FASS, and Raptor pumps is there lifetime warranty. As for the Walbro's you might look into the warranty of it and how much time they give you... As for plumbing I would use a 1/2" Big Line Kit and be done... As for the HD carters... I bought one and it barely made 11 PSI at a idle with a 1/2" Big Line Kit.... Not to mention HD Carter's are not designed for diesel fuels...

Problem with the Special X that I've been told from other forum members that the Special X pump timing has been advanced during the build of the pump so adding another programmer or chip on top of that will over time the engine cause a degrade in economy and performance. Stick with a stock pump you'd been MUCH happier. As for buying a pump form anyone I would research the warranty more that anything. Because I heard tales about getting a great pump but being shafted when it was time to collect on the warranty. Tales of pulling pump apart and blaming the customer of poor fuel, water, etc. Won't do you any good to buy a pump and then have a issue then have to buy another because of shady warranty practices...

Patience grasshopper... (Patience my Arse!)

Haven't bother to put a vacuum on it yet...

Caj we need a photo of the odometer... Totally amazing to see that much miles... :cheerleader:10K to go...

Really there isn't much to it. Switch -> PCM -> Hi Cutout -> Lo Cutout -> Compressor You turn the switch to MAX A/C (or any A/C mode) and the signal is sent to the PCM. The PCM will pass on the signal to the switch but the only time it will not is when the ECM is report limp mode or throttle is wide open then the A/C is shut down. As is the signal pass the two switch the hi switch protects agains too much pressure from high under hood temp and lack of air movement. Where the low pressure switch protects against freezing of the evaporator. So that is the basics...

As for the fuel line most all rough idle problems could be air being sucked in so typically there is no outward leakage or wet lines. Then 12 PSI for a AirDog is low so I'm going to guess you got a air leak some where on the suction lines.

My same thoughts... I got 9 years and 183K miles on mine... Stock is fine with me...

Well as for the evaporator both of then shown no sign of dye on the outside. Notes Remember the UV dye only last a few hours after being exposed to air. The green will dissappear in about 4 hours after leaking out of the system. Is there a pic or schematic that shows the evaporator and heater core together ?

Video is done... It's 350 MB long and will take me a bit of time tonight to upload to YouTube. Now the video is from the re-assembly process so I'm sure you guys and gals could see how it comes apart and goes back together. So the video start from the point of the new evaporator core was installed in the HVAC box and re-assembly from that point to done... So hopefully I remember to upload the file before I head to bed. --- Update to the previous post... Click and enjoy...

The cruise interaction was later in the Common Rail truck... don't ask which year but here was a year where the cruise would use the E Brake to slow down the truck.

But make sure to pull the intercooler and clean it out as well as all the piping to the manifold... Because if oil residue is at the turbo you going to most likely have it in the intercooler and piping too...

Information on ScanGauge II... http://www.scangauge.com/ Information on UltraGauge http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm

Stock air box is junk too... Over time the plastic will deform and the seal around the filter will be lost and the dust will leak thruogh. You can grease the seal to death to keep dirt out or just switch to the BHAF and be done. But oil resdue and dirt is a bad sign on the compressor side of the turbo. (Bad oil seal - Remember oil pressure is always higher than boost pressure so oil will always enter) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/turbo/turbo.htm

Ye you could but still going to need to flash the ECM to match the trans and also flash the VIN number to both.

The 2 engine are phyiscally the same as far as I know... Yes you'll have to reflash the PCM and ECM to match for the transmission. I pretty sure the ECM software is what makes the 20 HP difference. Because I've never heard a vendor sell a 215 VP44 pump it either SO or HO VP44 pumps...

That's good news if it was only a wiring fault on the VP44 chances are most like good... But still wonder how long the VP44 was without fuel pressure though...

Well the AD150 has to be installed at least... Then you can see if the VP44 will reset codes or not... Basically if the VP44 is OK it will not trip code again after the AD 150 install. But of the P1689 or other VP44 error codes return your going to be replacing the VP44.

Very interesting... Thank you Dobie...

Neither UltraGuage or ScanGauge will replace addon gauges (Boost, Pyrometer, Fuel Pressure). But both with report all error codes, give you a good trip computer and show you values from the engine sensor. (SGII will not show the MAP sensor correctly on 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins works correctly on all other vehicles.)