Mopar1973Man

Well... I've been using a Ultrasonic boxes in to vehicles now that seem to work really well but the problem is they are no longer produced. But in the RV I'm got 2 Black And Decker Ultrasonic boxes in it... Then I tore through the RV looks for entrances (plumbing, electrical, etc) and was going to spray foam them but Jayco has good tight plumbing and electrical. But since I've got covered belly I tucked a few moth balls in each hole I could find. So far so good...

Becareful... Stock lift pump is only 35 GPH and the FSS DDRP is only 45 GPH so you really don't have much for extra volume. This is way you see the abnormal pressure fall. Anything more than 2-3 PSI fall from idle to WOT is a problem...

Yes... From what I found out it just stops at 999,999 anf that's it... If you want to know you true mileage you have to go to a Dodge Dealer and have them put a DRBIII tool on it to pull the actual mileage.

Keep it in the green...

Feel the love... There is lots of things to discuss and learn about... I'm more than willing to dive in and hold the position for all the electrical of these trucks. I guess I dig in my books and start getting information together.

Actually there was a guy on CF.com that was capable of tapping into the Cummins ECM using a homemade data cable to Serial Port on a laptop and using a program called ROMRaider (produced for Subaru PCM's) he managed to tap into the ECM and re-write anything he wished. RomRaider Site - http://www.romraider.com/ Now on the Tech front... EFI Live is a PC program designed for Fords and Chevy diesel trucks. Would you believe that EFI Live is producing software for the 3rd Gen CR trucks and you guys will be able to plug in any kind of tune you want then... 2nd Gen's I heard are not being considered...

Well I'm getting ready to drag my TT down towards Ontario, OR for a first time trip. I'm going to leave the MPG fooler active this time and see how it turns out. I'll report back soon!

That was my thought is wheel bearings... I know you limited in ability Russ but if you can jack up the front axle so it just clears the ground. Then grb top and bottom and try rocking up and down. There should be no movement.

[*]Disconnect the batteries. [*]Pull the belt off. [*]Disconnect the wires on the back of the alternator. [*]Remove the 2 bolts mounting alternator. Reverse process to install again. But remember to re-calibrate the APPS when your done...

BHAF is worth it... You won't have to deal with mice building nest in the box any longer... The thing is to build the heat shield or flat plate for the fender and use a backing nuts under the plate and set it so the top nuts are flush. Then a piece of old rubber hose for the A/C line and your good...

Hey Gang... Could you give me a moment over here??? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3796-Facebook-Link...

Just sad... I'd never just give I'm busy line to anyone... Poor management of time... :banghead:

I don't think so... I'll look at my 2002 and my 1996 and see...

On the fuel rail there is a schraider valve push the pin in and check and see if there is fuel in the rail after you cranked it a bit. Then pop the distributor cap and check the rotor closely... I found a 1991 F150 that burned right through the rotor into the shaft a small pin hole. But suggestion just do a full tune up on it... Cap, rotor, spark plug, and fue filter... You might run across your problem during the tune up...

Give you a thought... My old 1976 Dodge Jamboree 20' Motorhome got me $500 on trade in... Gassernomore is right tap the NADA guide and see what they are giving...

Yeah I agree need to check out the entier front axle... Wheel bearing, tire balancing, ball joints, etc... Since its a 4WD check all your driven axles and front driveshaft. For the front driveshaft you'll have to remove it to check the double joint back by the transfer case...

Another view... You want to be on the rear port... 4, 5, and 6... This is suppose to be the hot batch... Not to mention if you use high idle 3 cylinder you can still monitor your temps. 1, 2, and 3 and dead and cold in 3 cylinder high idle...

Any line between the pump and the fuel tank is a suction line. Being that during run the suction line will draw air in easy. Then when the vehicle is parked the line continues to suck air into the line causing the primed fuel lines to drain back into the fuel tank so the next time you start the truck it pushes the air buibble into the VP44 and makes it impossible to start. Take a blow gun and a rug and pressurize the fuel tank with about 1-2 PSI and have a buddy look over the fuel system for leaks. WARNING! Don't get to crazy with air pressure it can blow fittings about and do damage to the tank! You only need 1 to 2 PSI at the most! This will pressuze the entire system and if there are leaks it will show. Most common leak is the quick connect fitting on the stock sender. I normally tell people not to use the fitting in the kit and just to hose clamp on the hose directly to the sender. Or avoid the whole problem and move over to a Drawstraw and be done...

Yeah... I'm getting ready to do my evaporator the second time now... What yo can do is get the UV dye pack and add it to the system and keep a close eye on the under hood plumbing with a blacklight looking for the dye. But in my case I can never find any dye pack under the hood so the only play left is the HVAC under the dash which hold the evaporator. Thankfully NAPA evaporators have a lifetime warranty!

Yeah I do... Thanks for reminding me... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm (Bottom of the page)

Air in the fuel... Are you sucking in air from the suction line???

Well its fixable... That's all that matters...

PCM... The one on the passenger firewall is the one that controls the field... What you need to do is find out of if the blue wire has power and the green should be ground. If the crank sensor is not working right (tach) then the alternator will not charge. How about the alternator fuse in the PDC...??? There is a patch for ya... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-reg/voltage-reg.htm

Slow leak for sure... Start adding freon on the low side till the low side pressure is 35-40 PSI compressor running solid. Then rev the engine to 1,500 RPM and hold and check the pressure during this time to be sure its not pulling lower if so add a bit more freon till the compressor hold tight at 35-40 PSI low side. But more here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/hvac/recharge/recharge.htm

Sounds like a weak lift pump... Or something else is wrong with it... If the lift pump is truely working it should of been spraying fuel out all over the place..