Mopar1973Man

I double checked your tire size and your right on for stock size (off by 1 rev/mile 0.1%). As for the torque converter that might just be part of what's biting you. Other than that its all about driving habits... :shrug:Might try the fooler and see how it works out. Shoot! I didn't get the ohm reading...

Well if there is a DRBIII tool hooked up the tech will be able to see the speed sensor from all 3 positions (front left, front right, rear). As for guessing on which sensor it is... Last time I saw speed sensors they are roughly $200 a piece. So still the only way to check this all out correctly and right is get a dealer to plug in the DRBIII tool and he'll be able to see if the CAB module is bad, sensors are bad, etc... But I don't think a sensor will cause a CAB module to fail...Or if your going to poor boy it... If the speedometer is working correctly then it on of the front 2 sensors...

What kind of mods done to the truck?

Well he's taken a PCM from another dodge truck (gasser) and hooked it up and the fuel gauge and one other gauge came back to functional but still got a No BUS message... I'm starting to wonder if the PCM is truely bad...

You might be lucky one with a real oil pressure gauge... I heard if you take in the newest flash it will kill off your oil pressure gauge and make it like mine... But I highly suggest you leave well enough alone...

Now all it needs is a Kylon TuneUp...

I'm think guys I'm thinking I trying to figure out different lead on the truck to trigger relays and such... I smell smoke... Oh I'm thinking hard...

Hell the toilet works too... Just leave the toilet lid & seat up and they can't swim forever... I had this happen before back in 1990 when we move to Idaho I had a pack rat doing the back stroke in the toilet... Fun part was it took 2 flushes to get rid of him...

I call it a cheater box but the actual name I'm not sure of but it a box that allows you to hook up to the battery and supply power to the VP44 and be able to start the engine and idle it. There is also a switch for high idle and that it...

I like JL... Man I wish your just a bit closer to me... Even worse I wish I had a bigger shop...

Really isn't any way to do that... Because if you forget to flip it off it will over fill the tank and push it out the vents and such... You need a split tank valve (electric) and hook the aux tank to the existing fuel lines... Then just flip a switch and draw fuel from the second tank. Yeah this says carb... I snagged from a gasser site. But this is the valve you need...

Yeap it look like its heading that way... I really hate to suggest anything that mean spending big money but it looks like your out of options...

Now remember driving style is 80% of this number... So if you think it give you ability to be heavy on the throttle it doesn't... I'll get the ohm value off mine rheostat in the morning...

CAB = Controller AntiLock Brake Yes... You need to have a new (or used) reprogrammed with your gear ratio, tire size and VIN number... As for which will go bad first... Kind of like the Chicken and the Egg which came first?

236 - Boost too high too long 1475 - Aux 5 Volt too high 122 - APPS sensor Low Volts 577 - ? (got to look in other books) Double check the +5V signal in the MAP sensor and look and see what the voltage really is... Check and see if something is shorted out...

Right now I'm running a rheostat plugged into the IAT plug. This allows me to adjust and try to fine tune the IAT temps to get the most. So after yackin' with ISX and talking theories I went back up with temp to try 140*F IAt and this time added the winter fronts to feed warm air at the engine. So if your going to follow along with this you would lose your grid heater in the morning. But it throws no codes because the IAT temp is legit number so the ECM assumes its true. But basically if you want a toggle switch design you would build the ECT fooler basically but use IAT plugs on it then use the proper resistor for the temp you want... (Look back at the first few posts)

Done it again... Mild weather 30-40*F, No wind, Cruise Set @ 55 MPH, IAT 140*F (Forced), Winter front (installed) 22 MPG on 40 mile round trip. I left today to get a couple gallons of paint for paint a room. So I headed to New Meadows, ID set my cruise for 55 MPH and took my time. On the way up canyon I was doubtful about numbers because I was watch 600-800*F EGT's but still 3-5 PSI boost. But once I made it ot the flats in Meadows Valley it fell 2-3 PSI of boost and floating 400-600*F. I was gain number rapidly. Once I hit New Meadows I had 16 MPG even after climbing the grade out. Now got my paint stopped in a friends place BS for a bit and came home set the cruise for 55 MPH home again. I'm all smileys because now I know the warmer air trapped under the hood is actually helping!

I know its a short video but this is what the blend door motor does...

Here you go more info on it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fca/fca.htm

All right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm

Hmmm... No problems here... Every monthly I do a inspection of my check levels, vehicle, lights, latches, doors, etc. So when I'm doing this I break out the oil can and hit every door hinges (front and rear), hood hinges, latches, etc.

Yeah I would be very very careful... Cummins engine is right around 1,000 to 1,100 pounds... Getting crushed by a Cummins would really ruin your day...

Just be aware that if you got loose paint or bare aluminum it will do strange things... The paint it will remove any old paint rather quickly with just a garden hose to rinse. Then as for the bare aluminum is will blacken the aluminum...

Come to Idaho... New Meadows, ID - $3.809McCall, ID - $3.859Riggins, ID - $3.769 I'm now also kicking the MPG fooler into high gear to get the most out of it I can now...

Just unplug the IAT and stuff a resistor into the plug... Simple enough that's all I'm doing...