Mopar1973Man

Air in the fuel... Are you sucking in air from the suction line???

Well its fixable... That's all that matters...

PCM... The one on the passenger firewall is the one that controls the field... What you need to do is find out of if the blue wire has power and the green should be ground. If the crank sensor is not working right (tach) then the alternator will not charge. How about the alternator fuse in the PDC...??? There is a patch for ya... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-reg/voltage-reg.htm

Slow leak for sure... Start adding freon on the low side till the low side pressure is 35-40 PSI compressor running solid. Then rev the engine to 1,500 RPM and hold and check the pressure during this time to be sure its not pulling lower if so add a bit more freon till the compressor hold tight at 35-40 PSI low side. But more here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/hvac/recharge/recharge.htm

Sounds like a weak lift pump... Or something else is wrong with it... If the lift pump is truely working it should of been spraying fuel out all over the place..

That's too bad... Hopefully he's got insurance...

Gotta roll down the windows just to warm up right???

Try pulling your MPG fooler temporarily and see if it is causing this effect...

Your bad JL give you helper the worse of everything right???

I asked the same thing and Caj told me it was just way too much tongue weight and BOOM! You'll have to bug him for more details of the wild story.

Now don't buy a new alternator you can get rebuilds for it... Shop around I'm sure there is parts for it to save you some $$$... But I'm glad it worked for you...

Hmmm... Did you try the cluster test to verify the gauge cluster? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/cluster/cluster.htm Then did you check for error codes to see if it gave a clue to what failed? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

I'm posting for CaJFlynn some of his trailers and boats he's hauling... (Emailed to me)

Central Texas you won't even need a grid heater... Here next month I'll disconnect mine again. As for the mine comes on for a brief bulb check and goes right back out. The the WTS bulb is damaged it will throw a error code for it...

While you at it tell them where home is!!!

That sucks... You need your fat Cummins to hold you down on the pavement...

Because I know that going to wash away to 10-12 MPG dragging the trailer around... Or wash away to 14-15 dragging the wood trailer around... Trailer season is coming for me like it or not. Either going be hauling 2 cords of firewood or be hauling the other travel trailer around. Now figure again...

Kind of like you Dorkweed I'm going to ditch the stock 265/75 R16's for good now and stay at 235/85 R16... So far been a really good tire. Need to get these 265/75 R16 Cooper STT tires burned off... I'm going to use new firewood season to hopefully get rid of them.

Just went up again... $4.259 in New Meadows, ID now...

Very Clean truck... Take care of it and it will take you a long ways...

As a matter of fact it allows 1 cent transaction...

Well at least it was only a fuse... But I would look closer at that and make sure there is nothing pinched or damage in the way of wiring. Like JL mention that the pump can have problems and blow the fuse too...

Yeap... Your 1,000th member... (Congrads)

Ok... I've made another shopping run to McCall and back with the weather starting to warm up a bit at 45-50*F still have my winter fronts in place I'm now seeing a constant 23.5 MPG in the 70 mile run up to McCall, ID and back home... But it still seems that warmer ambient air is better for MPG's than cold... I think there is a certain amount of air drag, gear lubes being cold, etc... But the number is still increasing. --- Update to the previous post... Come on prowelder where is the picture of it?

Welcome to the site... SSpeeDEMONSS I was wondering when you going to sneak over and peak...