Mopar1973Man

I've got a Prodigy P2 and so far like it... No problems with setting the gain. I kind of like it because when I start out with cold brakes I can up the gain a bit and still have strong trailer brakes. Then as they warm up roll back and be good. But I alway check my setting before I leave.

No polarity... But for your information Black/Light Blue is GROUND And Black/Red is the +5 Volt signal from ECM. Just no OPEN or SHORTS allowed!

BS you are... I'm at 181K head to 182K really quick... Now that the roads and weather are getting better I'm able to get out of the valley more... As for my mess... As for the 50K milestone I made up my mind and became my own warranty station. (Bye Bye Dodge Dealer!) [*]Front Drive Shaft - 27K (Warranty) [*]Rear Pinion Seal - 27K (Warranty) [*]Multi-function Switch - 35K (Warranty) [*]Air Horns - 46K [*]Reverse Lights - 46K [*]Crankcase Vent Mod was Born - 48K (Certified by my dealer) [*]Gauges - 48K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 48K (Warranty) [*]VP44 Replace - 50K (Warranty) [*]Exhaust Brake - 50K [*]Muffler Delete - 55K [*]BHAF - 60K [*]Vulcan Big Line Kit - 79K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 79K [*]Edge Comp - 92K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 93K [*]Frantz Filter - 106K [*]AirDog 150 Installed - 133K [*]Fuel Gauge Sender - 136K [*]RV275 Injectors - 160K [*]Starter Contacts - 180K (As well there is stuff missing here) Looking down the road at... (currently at 181K on the clock) [*]Gear case gasket and crank seal [*]Replacing my Evaporator again (Warranty) [*]Doing my first brake pad replacement

I swear I did!

Yeah like you found out the stock injector pressure is 310 bars. As for the 100ish HP sticks well the only thing I can think of is smoke and control. 100 HP stick will for sure dump some smoke. I wounder if you getting that over advancement of timing where the injection rattles to beat hell. I typically hear the heavy knock in the winter time without winter fronts. But this is my first winter with my MPG fooler in place, winter fronts and IAT set at 140*F. Rattle is nearly gone.

Comments in RED... Phone call are welcomed... Help yourself to the phone and I'll do what I can... If not I'll find someone that can...

Last time I talked to him it was 966,xxx... Bring it home...

Hmmm... I would do a valve adjustment first off just to see if there is any really loose lash. Now if you find a super loose one you might take the pushrod out and check and see if it's bent. Lay it on a flat counter and roll it and watch. Just for sake of double checking yourself I would also pull the injectors and have them pop tested. While they are out I would get a compression gauge and check the compresion. Then you know your covered...

Well I got to hop in here too... Homemade firewood hauler... Then my Jayco Eagle...

AH64ID you know me... Fleetguard and Frantz...

Like on my High idle kit when I was building them I made the length about 6 foot so it gave plenty of length for hiding and tucking wires out of the way. 18 AWG is fine...

See what you started Elkslayer???

Funny... I'm now seeing some news article (looking over MoparMom's shoulder) saying here comes the $2 a gallon fuels again... (Yeah right) I don't believe it looking at it going north now...

I knew as soon as ISX seen the thread he would have a magic solution for the problem...

Keep me posted or let me know...

Hey guys and Gals would you mind voting on this? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3684-Trailer-Towing-Forum

$4.159 in New Meadows...

Great... Welcome to the Mopar family... Hang around and ask question lots of knowledgeable people here willing to help out...

I screwed up that video forgot to set the camera back to normal video not time lapse so it just a blur of numbers...:banghead:

To brighten your day...

Here you go... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/diagnostics/diagnostics.htm Excessive White Exhaust Smoke [*]Check for air in fuel system. [*]Check for coolant leak into combustion chamber. [*]Check for DTCs set or intermittent DTC malfunctions. [*]Check for block heater malfunction in cold weather. [*]Check for engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction. [*]Check for ECM not calibrated properly. [*]Check for clogged or defective fuel filter. [*]Check for poor fuel quality. [*]Check for fuel heater or fuel heater temperature sensor malfunction. [*]Check for malfunctioning or loose fuel injector. [*]Check for fuel injection pump malfunction. [*]Fuel injector restricted or blocked fuel injection or supply lines. [*]Check for fuel transfer pump malfunction. [*]Check for Intake/exhaust valves not adjusted properly (tight). [*]Check for intake manifold heaters or intake manifold air temperature sensor malfunction. [*]Check for internal engine damage.

Maybe I'll do a short video of my SGII and the setup I run...

How about changing oil. Left the plug out went and ate lunch... Got a phone call for a job and had to hurry up to and forgot the plug and poured the first gallon into the waste bucket before I remember the plug was out... :banghead:

Right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-replace.htm

Hmmm... I'm in the same boat right now I got to wait for the ground to frim up too... As for the tires brands are not a issue but the air pressure is. Most tire failure comes from low or flat tire that build up heat and blow out. Like CajFlynn taught me when you pull a trailer take the time and check your tire temps when you stop if something is wrong the failing tire will be much warmer than the others. This includes hubs if the bearings are starting to have problem the hub will be warmer than other (unless its a hung brake/mis-adjusted). But with that much weight I would highly suggest the WD bars... Really make a difference. My TT doesn't even make the truck squat at all. Not even close to the overloads... As for your truck you're good for at least 13,600# trailer weight roughly. Combined truck and Trailer of 20,000# roughly... But this should be in the owners manual of the truck.