Mopar1973Man

Well I'm not running any kind of heater... No problems with fuel yet...

Well your going to have to look at the trailer plug in back and see what wire is back there for the plug. Then your going to have to trace it forward to the cab. I'm pretty sure its there just stashed. Like I didn't know there is a stub wire in the harness down on the driver side frame for center brake light for toppers... Yeap its there you just got to know it exist... Let me dig for my wiring diagrams... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=129 Just check it shows thre trailer plug and controller plug...

Wow! Another Idahoian... I wondering where there all at...

0628 - low voltage detected at the fuel lift pump 0529 - ? 0541 - low voltage on the no. 1 intake air heater relay 0483 - Fan speed

Actually the ECM is connected to the driver side ground terminal... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm

Nice job so far for head lights... I got to admit he's thinking way outside the box... As a matter of fact I think box is a few miles away... But I got to agree with him why be plain stock time to be different!

Awesome truck... Let me do some digging on my truck and figure out the connections for ya... I'm the same thing a plug and play cotroller... Edit: Ummm... If I'm not mistaken its 12V + GROUND Brake Pedal sense Trailer brake power You might at a peek at the wiring diagram for the 97 wiring... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=129

How much trailer weight (and GCW) are you pulling? Do you have a pyrometer?

Ummm... Save some money... Just do a compression test (not a blow by) and see where your at before ripping apart a perfectly good engine. Most of these trucks will travel a long ways past 500K milestone before needing any kind of work. But the CR engine are known for serious problems with leaking injectors that cause engines to fail as early as 100K miles if not dealt with. So if you pull the injectors have the pop tested and do a compression test you save huge amount of money. You may want to talk these people first... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/milestone/milestones.htm These guys never had a overhaul yet...

You could for testing reasons but I wouldn't for a permanent fix... It should work for just seeing if it will start and run but you might get some weird behavor and error codes.

Links to diagnostics...

Problem is your still baiting with food again bring them in the truck. What you need is some thing to repell them from even getting into the truck like peppermint oil, mothballs, ultrasonic box, etc...

Low miles... Hmmm... MPG loss... 1. Dragging brakes2. underinflated tires3. Aggressive tire tread4. Oversize tires5. TQ Conv holding tight? Not slipping?6. Excessive speed

Just don't mix other products with 2 cycle oil. ISX is running completely without AFC and fuel plate and getting 25-27 MPG... But also running the 2 cycle oil.

I did a 8 foot long (welding cable) negative cable on a fire truck for that price including the terminal and soldier on terminal too...

I double checked your tire size and your right on for stock size (off by 1 rev/mile 0.1%). As for the torque converter that might just be part of what's biting you. Other than that its all about driving habits... :shrug:Might try the fooler and see how it works out. Shoot! I didn't get the ohm reading...

Well if there is a DRBIII tool hooked up the tech will be able to see the speed sensor from all 3 positions (front left, front right, rear). As for guessing on which sensor it is... Last time I saw speed sensors they are roughly $200 a piece. So still the only way to check this all out correctly and right is get a dealer to plug in the DRBIII tool and he'll be able to see if the CAB module is bad, sensors are bad, etc... But I don't think a sensor will cause a CAB module to fail...Or if your going to poor boy it... If the speedometer is working correctly then it on of the front 2 sensors...

What kind of mods done to the truck?

Well he's taken a PCM from another dodge truck (gasser) and hooked it up and the fuel gauge and one other gauge came back to functional but still got a No BUS message... I'm starting to wonder if the PCM is truely bad...

You might be lucky one with a real oil pressure gauge... I heard if you take in the newest flash it will kill off your oil pressure gauge and make it like mine... But I highly suggest you leave well enough alone...

Now all it needs is a Kylon TuneUp...

I'm think guys I'm thinking I trying to figure out different lead on the truck to trigger relays and such... I smell smoke... Oh I'm thinking hard...

Hell the toilet works too... Just leave the toilet lid & seat up and they can't swim forever... I had this happen before back in 1990 when we move to Idaho I had a pack rat doing the back stroke in the toilet... Fun part was it took 2 flushes to get rid of him...

I call it a cheater box but the actual name I'm not sure of but it a box that allows you to hook up to the battery and supply power to the VP44 and be able to start the engine and idle it. There is also a switch for high idle and that it...

I like JL... Man I wish your just a bit closer to me... Even worse I wish I had a bigger shop...