Mopar1973Man

Few other factors... [*]24V 98.5 to 02 have the lower compression ratio ever in all Cummins ISB engines. (16.3 or 17.0) Where the rest of them ar 17.5 and up... ISX knows the numbers. [*]VP44 has dynamic timing that will constantly change to road load, temps (IAT) etc. Where Ppump is static and never changes. [*]I think ISX truck is a bit shorter in height and weight a few thousand pounds less (Guessing here). [*]MO. Is for sure more flat than ID. is... [*]Fuels could be a factor I'm not certain if ISX's winterized fuels are as aggressive as up North.

Nice simple fix... That will keep thieves from trying to pry open the rear window. (If they look!)

ISX is right... Just dropping 20-25 pound per tire from 265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16 gain me MPG really quick. (Rolling resistance and rotational mass) Talk to THRacing his truck is 4.11 gear and getting some good MPG. Frontal area will always have a effect. The lower you can get the truck better the MPG's. When was the last time you saw a NASCAR standing 7 feet in the air? Not trying to be a punk but the fact is there is nothing efficent above standing tall in the air. Might look cool but that's it it look cool and your wallet is drained. Crack manifold is for sure dropping your turbo drive pressures... Lowering the boost... Black smoke (unburnt fuel) The extended idling will kill the MPG's too... I try to only idle till I see about 90-100*F on the ScanGauge II and then take off this allows the engine oil to at least be like summer start temps. It only takes me 2-3 minutes to this...

Hmmm... You might check over your wiring for a short. I know from past experiences that yes if the APPS is unplugged it will just sit and idle. (0 Volts) But for some reason the APPS sensor line is seeing more than 0.6 volts...

2 Diagnostics to try... /threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low?highlight=p0122">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low?highlight=p0122 /threads/2557-P0123-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-High">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2557-P0123-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-High These 2 test will validate the wiring to the APPS and ECM.

This is where the old school "Adjust the APPS sensor to match the voltage" bites you... It all about the idle validation signal... --- Update to the previous post... Ok... DVM is used the same way but put your black lead on the clip (in Pin #6) and the positive lead on positive terminal you should see +12V at idle and 0V at throttle...

Just like how you did the voltage adjustment you used the paper clip on the plug... Just check to see if there is a ground signal present on idle validation pin.

I'm due to adjust my parking brake again...

Something is either cancelling it... [*]Brake being pressed [*]Engine coolant above 170*F [*]Transmission in gear (Auto) [*]Movement detected (>1 MPH) [*]Throttle above idle position The throttle need to been showing a ground signal on the idle validation pin to the ECM for high idle to show. Pin #6 should show a ground signal. But pin #2 should be open.

Ok... Run #2 I change thing on the truck a bit to match ISX as much as possible. [*]Change my Cooper STT's 265/75 R16 to my Big O AT's 235/85 R16 [*]Removed the winter fronts [*]Turned ON the Edge Comp 5x5 The same resistor was used again. 2.7K ohm (132*F IAT temps) Now I ran the trip again to New Meadows, ID the roads are snow covered, current weather is 3*F above, light to no winds, speed ranging between 45-55 MPH with some use of 4WD. When I reached New Meadows I had a few stops to make so during the stops I used the 6 cylinder high idle. When I got to my final stop I shut down for about 2 hours. (Stopped a friends house) Then fired back up and left for home. Pulled in the driveway with 19.5 MPG on the SGII... I'd say that a winner in my book... PREVIOUS TEST WITHOUT EDGE COMP

I just wash the engine bay on a regular basis and never had a problem with heat rust...

Great for people with a fixed schedule that leave for work at a exact time and etc... When I worked the fire dept I had to keep it plugged in all the time to keep the truck ready to roll. But now that I'm no longer doing that as much I don't even worry about plugging in... I just set the high idle allow it to come up to 100*F before I roll... Even if I'm in a hurry I'd just start and roll but drive nice and easy till the coolant reaches the 160 (lower limit)...

Well that good to know there is a few things still made here... MoparMom showed my a news article a while back (which I can't find now) but GE (General Electric) is packing up in China and coimng home to the USA again! (Not to go political) But there is hope out there!

Sad to say I'm find the same thing the CJ-4 is the only oil on the market now... CI-4 is being phased out just like low sulfur diesel fuel being phased out for ULSD... So soon valvoline and the rest will follow...

Ok...(My Bad) I thought this was a first time run. So there is something wrong if you replace it once and it coming back with another leak... So at this point I would inspect the hole for damage. Clean it really good and look closely. Like in my mind to get it to seal I would wipe a coat of silicone in the hole. As for installing normally go for flush then quit... Which plug is this?

Sometime soon I might finally ditch my factory batteries but they still start the beast just fine...

On the fleetguard filter it say right there on the filter "After the filter makes contact tighten another 3/4 of turn." So I mark the lip of the filter with a permanent marker on the lip facing the firewall so when I finish tighten the filter the mark should be facing me at the passenger fender. Then I know if the filter is getting loose or other wise...

Don't see how it would create a load being the shaft is free spining...

Yeah I would turn the flywheel again... You'll save a bunch there then all you need is the new parts... But while the flywheel in being done see about having the shop change the pilot bearing for you...

Ive never had to use any kind of sealant on freeze plugs... The reason the freeze plug are failing is because the coolant turned Acidic or Basic from lack of coolant flushes... Just because it green. orange, yellow or what every color doesn't mean its still good...

We got a 900K milestone truck here on the site... Yes 900,000+ miles on a 2001 dodge Cummins... Talk to CajFlynn to learn the secrets of getting high miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2439-900-000-Milestone-And-Still-Rolling!?highlight=milestone