Mopar1973Man

How do I know you just jinxed me???

Actually we did crap like that when we got assign crap jobs for forestry... Like power washing cars/trucks with a 2 1/2" hose and nozzle at about 50-60 PSI that just about requires 2 people and it sure knock the mud off of the trucks.

So a fire fighter got a crazy idea to strap a fire nozzle to his back...

ISX yanked his out... From what I've seen you need to pull the front off the truck (bumper, radiators, etc) Then drop the oil pan... Then it should come forward after all the other stuff. (Exhaust, fuel lines, electrical, engine mounts, etc)

Should be basically the same... Just a matter of checking the wiring from pin to pin for shorts and opens...

I would consider epoxy of some sort. Then lightly clamp it till it sets up...

Here is how to test the filter minder...

I'm not sorry... Just means less road taxes to pay for...

There was a TSB for the 3rd gen where Automatic where slipping out of park and into Reverse. It was designed to warn the driver so horn starts honking. As for being able to disable this you can't... There is no updates to disable this feature and will remain permanently...

No... You could drive around all day with the e-brake set and never trip a ABS light. ABS light comes on because one or more speed sensor do not match each other. In other words if the front 2 speed sensor report 30 MPH and the rear sensor reports 50 MPH... There is a issue... ABS/BRAKE light tripped. Yeah... Might be rusted, corroded, or something... Did you warm them up to room temp to be sure it not just ice hanging them up? Like mine released after I had my truck in the shop and got some heat to the cable and they released...

Never have to clean a BHAF... Just hook it up and use it... K&N and other washable filters I'm not impressed with. Like you said you clean it often. Well the problem is how you clean it because if you wash it the wrong way you will deposit the dirt on the other side so when you fire up the truck you take the risk of sucking it into the engine. Also hold up the K&N filter to the sunlight and count the pin holes. Every pin hole is a entrance for dirt to travel in on. Then all these typical require some sort of oil well most people over oil then and end up with oil all over the turbo compressor and in the intercooler. With a dry filter (BHAF) you'll find dust fall off by itself so no need to wash or mantain it... Yeah... In my area of Idaho the only paved road is the highway (US95) everything else is DIRT!

I've got the BHAF and pull at 30' travel trailer with a GCWR of 15,020#... (Kind of small compared to you) But the BHAF can and will last up to 100K miles without any maintenance done to it... My last filter ran 130K miles and 7 years and the filter minder never moved. Yes I've check my filter minder on a regular basis and it works fine but the filter just doesn't plug up very fast..

No... That would be like my issue here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3514-Parking-Brake-Emergency-Brake-Frozen! I've got the same issue but this time it had the brakes sqeaking...

Yea... It a temporary wait period of 14 days / 20 posts... It to keep people from sucking up the storage of the server needlessly and then bail out... But since you seem interrested I'll lift the limit... (Poof) Lifted!

Trans relay good? Try swapping with another relay... I would skip the ground though... Also clear any codes present... As for the APPS error code try clearing the code and see if it returns... Also did you do the APPS relearn too?

CPS would make the tach crazy and possibly screw up the firing the injectors... But the 02 sensor would make it lean/rich issues (backfire - lean)... Well grab the book and do some reading... I'm sure there is a wiring diagram in there...

Got you covered... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm

Cheers... You just learned something new today...

The little red blinking didn't catch your attention? Also the fact I keep mine adjusted up tight so either the truck rolls or it don't.

I was going to say that's the 3rd Gen door open horn honkin' update... 2nd gens don't have such... As for high idle your going to need a morning around 20-25*F to get it to hit... Even mine with grid heater running can pull the IAT above 38*F on a 21*F morning so it will never hit.

I've got the same problem with my stock aluminum rims the clear coat is shot and the white corrosion is starting... When these get ugly I'll switch to a plain jane steel rim of some sort (chrome, white or black finish)

First 10 users on the forum back in 2007 when I bought my domain name. User ID 1 - Installer (User name I created during the first install... This user is used for testing purposes now) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/1 User ID 2 - Mopar1973Man http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/2 User ID 3 - Moparsmaiden (Ex-girlfriend) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/3 User ID 4 - Muddy http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/4 User ID 5 - Duluth Diesel http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/5 User ID 6 - havasucat http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/6 User ID 7 - Dorkweed http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/7 User ID 8 - FlagmanRuss http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/8 User ID 9 - Keydl http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/9 User ID 10 - Computek http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/10

Here you go gang... Pics of the read disc brakes disassembled... Tire removed... Caliper removed... (2 bolts) Caliper frame remove (2 bolts) Rotor Drum removed (loosen parking brake adjuster and slide off) Inside drum Parking brake adjuster Back of axle Lower cam lever and return spring. Full assembly.

Not sure about that but I wouldn't add much more that 1 gallon at the worse case... Try starting out with a quart to a full tank and work your way up...

3rd Gens are known for the choke in the neck of the stock air horn if you look inside where the bolt grooves are there is a narrow opening. So this make sense on you performance change and quicker spool up. http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRxVio9bCsNJxPUgMNYWT4d4Rq6Nx6yebthWwtU2OX1sma7kLZ4&t=1