Mopar1973Man

Are you sure??? 235/85 R16 and 265/75 R16 are both 31 inch tires... Just about 1.5" difference... I know the 245/75 R16 was used as well...

Your welocme and Merry Christmas to you too... But remember if you ever make it to the West side of the states I'm more than willing to let you use my shop...

Now that's funny ISX... Dood fun for the family... Right On! But I hate to say it but you can't stack snow that high...

Also a white Christmas here... M E R R Y * C H R I S T M A S Too All The Members And Staff

Other factors on this trip it was late evening... 30*F at home and cooling in New Meadows... By the time I left New Meadows for home again it was down to 24*F and the fog was setting in and getting bad so this was no cruise control trip and varied speed between 45-60 MPH... On top of this there is a fresh oil change Chevron Delo 15W-40, fleetguard oil filter, and new roll of TP in the Frantz filter... I will admit it sucks to drive with the Edge Comp turned on boost is limited to 22 PSI and very doggy getting built up to speed. Other odd factors is the IAT is locked at 132*F... I noticed sometimes the grid heater come on and sometimes they don't... Like this morning start up there was no grid heater at 34*F and started fine... But last night the engine was still warm (120*F) and grid heater came on... Go figure... I was going to make a run today but plans changed last night... (dang!)

Test run done... (You don't want ot hear it...) Edge Comp turned OFF! Round trip to New Meadows, ID and back home (40 miles) pulled 12.5 MPG!

I agree with that thought... Like I said I might warm it up just a little 80-100*F of coolant and down the highway I go. Once the temp reach 160*F (lower normal range)... It no holds barred...

Think back a long time ago when I got my first 76 Dodge Jamboree motorhome I went through simular problems with the brakes having a soft pedal and needing to double pump the brake to be firm. Bled it out numberous times... Changed the Master cylinder... Bled it some more... Checked the rear drum adjustment... Bled it some more... Honed the rear slave cylinders... Bled it some more... Changed the Vacuum booster... Bled it some more... Arrgh... Come to find out it was just because the front pads where too thin... You might check your pads and shoes to be sure they are serviceable...

According to the book I've got here there is only 2 sizes of tanks... (2nd Gen Body)Short bed = 34 GallonLong Bed = 35 Gallon

I had a simular case like Russ... I had my old 1972 Dodge powerWagon idling in the driveway and set the E Brake. Driveway got a slight slope to it... What happen is the E brake released itself and the truck down the driveway into a snow berm before it got to the fence... Dang Lucky... It was a really wore out truck...

I can give you this much... More virtual load you put on the engine at warm up time the more pyrometer temps it going to produce hence quicker warm up times at the price of using more fuel. Just for a measure sake the 3 cylinder high idle and exhaust brake consume upwards of 6 GPH. Now if the truck was rolling 55 MPH at 6 GPH you would have 9.1 MPG... So for me I only use it for a very short period ot get the coolant to about 90-100*F and roll with it... Because high idling and not moving distroy your MPG's really quick...

Hmmm... Just do the math on the non-running compression of a Cummins with 35 PSI boost is over 1,000 PSI at TDC... I'd be more concered with extremely high cetane fuel (>50 Cetane), propane or water/meth... These fuels act as if the timing timing is increased because they ignite very easy, early, and quickly... Hence why some people have problems with water/meth blowing the head gaskets...

I use to do the same thing... But once I figured out that high idle at 1,200 RPM and normally idea at 800 RPM barely changes the pyrometers so it still took the same amount of time... But I got to admit a cold automatic tranny does put a alot of load on a engine...

Unless... You have one of the few people with random revving problems... Or someone with a high idle flash then the truck might take on even more damage as it tries to push over a tree...

Truely not safe... I know of a few people that do this be the what if comes to be... What if the brake releases? What if the brake adjustment is not strong enough? You should really consider the high idle flash...

How about I pull the wire tap and run only timing from the Edge Comp? Would that fit the bill?

As for the temp sensor in the VP44 its phyiscally attached to the electronics and is part of the speed sensor module... As you can see there is no way your going to modify that sensor with a ribbon cable inside the VP44...

Ok here is todays trip... @ISX yes I've got my heavy Cooper STT's 265/75 R16 on... With the 2.7K ohm resistor for the trip to McCall ID for shopping... Not bad... I was hoping to smack 20 MPG... Low record for the trip but on average it was about 19*F Now you got to remember I live at 2,800 feet and McCall, Id tops out at 5,200 feet... So I got climbing, winding roads, reduced speed from snow covered roads, etc...

Here is the wiring for the ECM and VP44... There is only 1 power supply relay located in the PDC... But if this relay fails it will throw a P1689 code... If the ECM fails it typically throws a P0606 code.... If you can find a Cummins Shop that has a cheater box that plugs into the VP44 it will isolate the VP44 by itself and allow you to start the truck and select idle or high idle mods. So that a way of testing the VP44 without a ECM present... As for testing a ECM the only way I know is to replace it...

Hmmm... If the Timbo's APPS is installed and working properly then it going to most like be a Injection pump problem... But I hate point a finger at something without a for sure bet... If there was a injection pump error code I would run with it... But so far nothing...

Maybe we should get smart and grab JL Welding and have him create these bracket for us... I'm sure he's got the right stuff to do it...