Mopar1973Man

Right on the money... But I'm working on getting around that...

From what I've heard GlowShift are OK gauges...

Maybe the tech screwed up on telling me the version number... But at any rate I'm going for the update...

No voltage present... Just OHMs... Both end will be discconected... As well as the batteries being disconnected...

Chevron Delo 15W-40... Toilet paper bypass filter that filter down to 1/2 Micron. More here... These filter work good if Dorkweed can do 80K+ miles on WalMart Unverisal 15w-40 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1688-80-000-Miles......No-Full-Oil-Change

Yeap ISX is right... As for the SG it will show zeros most all the time at idle unless there is something to load the engine like a exhaust brake then it will pop up on the scale.

I change oil every 10K miles... But I've got a Frantz filter... The owners manual calls for 7,500 miles... You could have my Honda ATV 2008 in the owners manual requires oil change at 600 miles...

Here you go... Air Dog FASS AirDog are typically quieter pumps...

That's the ECM plug... Go over to the Download area grab a copy of the Dodge FSM for 2001 and turn to page 1053 (8W - 80 - 40) Shows all the pin outs for the ECM...

Welcome to the site... Stick around there is a lot of helpful people here that can teach you more and if they can't I'm sure someone knows of another person that can help...

I look at the profile of the tire and contact patch and base my pressure from that. Also using a tread depth gauge to double check to make sure I'm not over wearing the outside or middle of the tread and adjust accordingly.

Hmmm... 3 possible answers... [*]Blown fuse [*]Blower motor resistor is burnt up [*]Blower motor failed I've never heard of a speed switch failing yet...

Did the housing crack or has corrosion holes in it?

Well the 12V is a simple engine to work on but the 24V still has a few bonuses over... IMHO

Those are the pin numbers of the ECM... But I was showing the larger wiring map to show the ground from the other sensors that connect at S165... But the other smaller wiring diagram will do for you...

Yeap Wild & Free is right about the history of the Father / Son relationship... The other thing to look at is pure size of the equipment which is the other key feature... Both have the same performance as far as fuel pumps but the AD is a MUCH smaller package compared to the FASS...

Here is more on the tire conversation... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_code

Unless your missing body plug in the floor or walls...

Very valid point... I'll admit that I eat my my truck seen every where I go is long distance. But Normally I do vacuum and wash the truck once a week if the weather allows for it. In the time I've been working on vehicle in Idaho (21 years) I've seen a few rigs (no names) that are rather gross on the interior and the parents allow the kids to eat and make a huge mess. Strangely enough that vehicle last I knew was starting to have mice problems...

I agree with Dorkweed... Just getting back to the basics there is a over fueling and lack of air issue occuring.

I've got a old school Vulcan big line kit in between the stock fuel filter and the VP44. In that line is a push loc tee with a 1/8" NPT test port. Then the rest comes out... Elbow to the needle valve the the brass tee with the fuel pressure gauge line and low pressure switch. Needle valve is required for both electric or mechanical gauge without a isolator. The isolator becomes a damping device in its self trying to translate diesel fuel pressure into anti-freeze pressure. Typical no on complains about buzzing noises while using a isolator... It will be very evident when the needle valve is too open the the gauge will buzz in the cab. The Polyon line is really cheap and you can buy 10 feet of that for less than 6 bucks at a NAPA. Just remember to get new farrules... As for the needle valve ...