Mopar1973Man

Well I can help with part of that... The smarty tends to reduce the TQ Management on these trucks. In other words on a stock turn its impossible to reach WOT at low rolling speeds. So the Smarty alway for more throttle at low road speeds. Once the truck make about 20-25 MPH then the TQ management is removed. Then you have a full range of throttle. TQ Management was created to reduce the stress on driveline components but the Smart is basically over riding it. So becareful the Dodge Auot Trans is very weak... Now as for the trans I'll hand that off to one of the other guys here since I'm a manual guy...

Welcome to the site... Good luck... Like you'll find we are just a great group of guys looking to keep our trucks rolling... 400K milestone it quite the haul! Nice work!

That weird... My 2002 24V hold a perfect 12 quarts at the full mark... Oh that's right I got 2 filters (Main Engine filter and the Frantz) to fill...

I seen a few ASE certified guys that are not meant to hold a wrench ever!

Hmmm... Could you get a pic of it by chance?

Going to move this over to 24V powertrain...

It's all good around here... Got to keep people laughin some how...

I've cleaned everything I can with a pressure washer but don't shoot electrical connectors directly... Other than that have at the block..

I bet you checked the dipstick twice before you even started the engine to leave right? I'm the same way about just getting tires... I'll stand out in the cold/rain/snow watching at the door frame as they do the tires. While there back is turned I sneak a quick look at the brakes and haul back out the door to watch... Guys at the tire shop know me rather well...

Like CajFlynn told me that if he got to tap a wire for whatever reason that wire connection will be shrink tub, rapped in tape, then encased in silcone...

What I'm hoping for that someone figure out what exactly is failing to cause the TQ Conv porblems nad shift issues... Because these truck run thousands and thousands of miles and never have a single issues till one day BAM! Shift trouble... There is a answer to this problem... But I don't believe in chopping up a electrical system or adding device(s) to cover up a problem...

Re-run that part again... The voltage show match the orignal start point. So back down till it stops...

I've got one on my truck... It should be just the same as the factory one... So you having issues with a little too much slack at the idle position right. You press and press and then it comes to life. What you do is use the set screw to take up the slack. Hook up your DVM again and tighten the set screw till voltage rises then back off to the same voltage at you start point. Then add 1/2 turn your done... So if your start voltage is .620 the tighten till it rises then back off till you hit .620 again the add 1/2 turn lossen the screw your done...

I just pull out a 1 1/2" fire hose and hook up to the irragation line at 116 PSI...

Best stuff yet...

Here you go... http://www.toolsource.com/scan-tool-package-chrysler-jeep-dodge-p-98745.html

I heard that... Personaly if the plug isn't out for at least 2-4 HOURS I'm not happy... I want to give mine all the time I can to allow it to dip in the bucket so the oil change is fresh as possible. Now I've done a few rush oil changes and found my dipstick just as black as after the change as it was before the change... So if I can I'll pop the plug out at night and let it drain all night long if I can and then put the plug in and load it up... Delo... Sure that whats in my truck now!

Crazy kids...

I'm not exactly clear what you taking about is this the power steering fluid or what?

Yes your right... But you need 40 warm up cycles. (Engine going from cold to 160*F) So you need to do 40 warm up cycles without tripping the same error again during these warm up cycles other than that the counter resets to ZERO and you get to start all over again. Hence the problem isn't fixed.

They only electrical on a Manual is the reverse switch for the taillights... When you look at the PCM there very little wiring coming out of mine...

Just to expand W&F's comment a bit farther.. http://www.obdii.com/background.html

That good. But then the error code need to be reset with a OBDII tool then...

Question I love to ask is why did the truck run nearly 8-10 years now without any issues and didn't need a wiring mod (added ground wire) or add on equipment (noise filters)... Then now all of a sudden it needs these things? Something has wore out or changed... [*]Alternator diode shorted out [*]APPS sensor failing (wore spot in the carbon strip) [*]Bad grounds on either battery (passenger side - PCM / Driver side - ECM) But always amazed me of this weird issue... Only Automatic see this problem...