Mopar1973Man

Yeah I know... Seriously I do the same thing come summer time with firewood ($150 a cord - ChaChing!) (Cummins Skidder... )

+1 (Showing support for the effort!)

And you need a Cummins?? Heck I plow that much with my neighbors ATV...

Here is a bit more on the subject... http://www.docstoc.com/docs/56990019/Diesel-Combustion-System-With-Re-entrant-Piston-Bowl---Patent-7431012#viewer-area

Hook up with ISX he's created a boost regulator that actually works rather well for his 12V 97...

Wild & Free is right... I would jump on one of those if I could buy one...

Yea... So true... There is a guy in Boise, ID that I went down to see person and he's got a 05 Dodge 3500 CR Cummins it still runs but you can hear at startup how weak the compression is. Once it running it got so much blowby that if you unscrew the cap it will shoot it up of your hand at least a foot into the air. You actually hear a POP when it happens... CR Engine are famous for the injector failures... Just like 24V's are famous for VP44 failures... The only difference is when a CR goes down it can take the pistons and the block with it.

Thinking back on this again... Q: Could you get a picture of the switch? Q: Where did you buy the switch at? (Link to web site please) I love the design idea and would like to get more information on this change so I can included it in the write up of the site so others can have the option too.

Sounds familar... Mom's old 1976 Dodge PowerWagon did the same thing I blew the front seal but what caused it was a failed input shaft bearing mind you what I'm comparing to is a 727 trans from long ago to the 47RE... Needless to say I replaced the seal which was cheap ($5) and had it blow out again in a short order...

Nothing hard on install... If you pulling the bed then just route the hose and go... Just consider you mounting location of your pump where the water and debris won't beat it up.

Now I don't feel so bad... But doesn't that suck just a few hundred miles eastward in US the fuel prices fall...

Give the man a beer... Your right they are the EXACT same color...

Now is Square A the same color as Square B? Go ahead and check the color using a photo editor and you tell me!

Continued over here... /threads/3470-2011-Mopar-Theme">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3470-2011-Mopar-Theme

Ummm... Now that really dumb... That is a street bike and it legal to ride on the highway...

P0336 is Crankshaft sensor. Basically need to replace the sensor there above the starter. It will require removal of the starter to get the sensor out.

Kind of like this...

Welcome to the group...

D'Oh!

I'll let you know at about 500K miles... Seriously... It's easy to mantain, filters are cheap and plentiful, etc... The only thing I had to order for replacement parts was the base O-ring and I bought 4 of them for about $10 bucks or so... Another nice thing Frantz Filters are American Made right here in Nampa, Idaho. The competetion was the Motor Guard made in the same fashion... Which is no long produced but you can talk to Dorkweed he's got one... Been over 80K miles without a oil change and tested through Blackstone labs...

Well went up to McCall to get some shopping done... New Meadows, ID $3.699Riggins, ID $3.659

Here is a few to keep you thinking... 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100I - 6,000 miles (oil change and filter 5 quarts) 2008 Honda Rancher ATV - 600 miles (oil change and filter 4 quarts) Both values are right from the Honda Factory Service Manual... Now to give you some more to think about... So now comparing filter systems... The little Honda Rancher ATV to Cummins Fleetguard... But how many grams of debris do you think the Honda filter and the Cummins filter will hold? Ahhh! Since the filter system is so tiny in contrast to the Cummins filter thats why the change interval is reduced greatly. Same thing goes for cars like the filter for my Dodge Charger is half the size of the Cummins. Compared to the average Cummins owner stays to the pavement most times. But see here is where the Frantz picks up the slack for me since most of my travel is dirt road in Idaho I'm like the ATV so to add some extra protection I jump in on the Frantz filter to add in filtering down the oil. I'm not saying this is the ONLY answer but very inexpensive answer for a person that lives way out in the middle of nowhere Idaho...

The owners manual states 7,500 miles for oil change... Why would you start below this value? Remember this isn't a 5 quart gasoline engine this is a 11 quart diesel engine. Now if the pan only held 5 quarts I would be changing every 5k miles but remember you got more oil in the sump than a normal gasser... I've seen a few comments about Frantz filters here... Well here is a guy in Oregon that did a great write up on the Frantz Filter... http://www.cumminsforum.com/articles/articles/18/1/Anatomy-of-a-Frantz-toilet-paper-bypass-oil-filter/Page1.html