Mopar1973Man

I just wash the engine bay on a regular basis and never had a problem with heat rust...

Great for people with a fixed schedule that leave for work at a exact time and etc... When I worked the fire dept I had to keep it plugged in all the time to keep the truck ready to roll. But now that I'm no longer doing that as much I don't even worry about plugging in... I just set the high idle allow it to come up to 100*F before I roll... Even if I'm in a hurry I'd just start and roll but drive nice and easy till the coolant reaches the 160 (lower limit)...

Well that good to know there is a few things still made here... MoparMom showed my a news article a while back (which I can't find now) but GE (General Electric) is packing up in China and coimng home to the USA again! (Not to go political) But there is hope out there!

Sad to say I'm find the same thing the CJ-4 is the only oil on the market now... CI-4 is being phased out just like low sulfur diesel fuel being phased out for ULSD... So soon valvoline and the rest will follow...

Ok...(My Bad) I thought this was a first time run. So there is something wrong if you replace it once and it coming back with another leak... So at this point I would inspect the hole for damage. Clean it really good and look closely. Like in my mind to get it to seal I would wipe a coat of silicone in the hole. As for installing normally go for flush then quit... Which plug is this?

Sometime soon I might finally ditch my factory batteries but they still start the beast just fine...

On the fleetguard filter it say right there on the filter "After the filter makes contact tighten another 3/4 of turn." So I mark the lip of the filter with a permanent marker on the lip facing the firewall so when I finish tighten the filter the mark should be facing me at the passenger fender. Then I know if the filter is getting loose or other wise...

Don't see how it would create a load being the shaft is free spining...

Yeah I would turn the flywheel again... You'll save a bunch there then all you need is the new parts... But while the flywheel in being done see about having the shop change the pilot bearing for you...

Ive never had to use any kind of sealant on freeze plugs... The reason the freeze plug are failing is because the coolant turned Acidic or Basic from lack of coolant flushes... Just because it green. orange, yellow or what every color doesn't mean its still good...

We got a 900K milestone truck here on the site... Yes 900,000+ miles on a 2001 dodge Cummins... Talk to CajFlynn to learn the secrets of getting high miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2439-900-000-Milestone-And-Still-Rolling!?highlight=milestone

Well I can help with part of that... The smarty tends to reduce the TQ Management on these trucks. In other words on a stock turn its impossible to reach WOT at low rolling speeds. So the Smarty alway for more throttle at low road speeds. Once the truck make about 20-25 MPH then the TQ management is removed. Then you have a full range of throttle. TQ Management was created to reduce the stress on driveline components but the Smart is basically over riding it. So becareful the Dodge Auot Trans is very weak... Now as for the trans I'll hand that off to one of the other guys here since I'm a manual guy...

Welcome to the site... Good luck... Like you'll find we are just a great group of guys looking to keep our trucks rolling... 400K milestone it quite the haul! Nice work!

That weird... My 2002 24V hold a perfect 12 quarts at the full mark... Oh that's right I got 2 filters (Main Engine filter and the Frantz) to fill...

I seen a few ASE certified guys that are not meant to hold a wrench ever!

Hmmm... Could you get a pic of it by chance?

Going to move this over to 24V powertrain...

It's all good around here... Got to keep people laughin some how...

I've cleaned everything I can with a pressure washer but don't shoot electrical connectors directly... Other than that have at the block..

I bet you checked the dipstick twice before you even started the engine to leave right? I'm the same way about just getting tires... I'll stand out in the cold/rain/snow watching at the door frame as they do the tires. While there back is turned I sneak a quick look at the brakes and haul back out the door to watch... Guys at the tire shop know me rather well...

Like CajFlynn told me that if he got to tap a wire for whatever reason that wire connection will be shrink tub, rapped in tape, then encased in silcone...

What I'm hoping for that someone figure out what exactly is failing to cause the TQ Conv porblems nad shift issues... Because these truck run thousands and thousands of miles and never have a single issues till one day BAM! Shift trouble... There is a answer to this problem... But I don't believe in chopping up a electrical system or adding device(s) to cover up a problem...

Re-run that part again... The voltage show match the orignal start point. So back down till it stops...

I've got one on my truck... It should be just the same as the factory one... So you having issues with a little too much slack at the idle position right. You press and press and then it comes to life. What you do is use the set screw to take up the slack. Hook up your DVM again and tighten the set screw till voltage rises then back off to the same voltage at you start point. Then add 1/2 turn your done... So if your start voltage is .620 the tighten till it rises then back off till you hit .620 again the add 1/2 turn lossen the screw your done...

I just pull out a 1 1/2" fire hose and hook up to the irragation line at 116 PSI...