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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. OK... 1693 - Companion Code /threads/2616-P1286-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Supply-Voltage-Too-High?highlight=P1286">1286 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Supply Voltage Too High /threads/2571-P0237-Map-Sensor-Voltage-Too-Low?highlight=P0237">0237 - Map Sensor Voltage Too Low /threads/2570-P0236-Map-Sensor-Too-High-Too-Long">0236 - Map Sensor Too High Too Long /threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low">0122 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low /threads/2623-P1475-Aux-5-Volt-Supply-Voltage-High?highlight=p1475">1475 - Aux 5 Volt Supply Voltage High As for the no bus... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm
  2. I found a article about ScanGauge II going to update again... http://www.pureenergysystems.com/store/ScanGauge/USB.htm Status: The main issue causing delay is the difficulty of making the software so it is upgradeable, but so that it can't be hacked for reverse engineering and knock-offs. The unit then needs to be beta-tested for at least a month before being made available generally. The interface is a unit with memory and processing power itself. It has a cable that plugs into the unused connector on the ScanGaugeII and another that plugs into a USB port on a computer. They don't have to both be plugged in at the same time. The interface will use SD Cards for data storage. You can plug it into the ScanGauge for logging and for other upload/download tasks. It can be removed from the vehicle and taken to a computer for data transfers. The ScanGaugeII has all the hardware needed for the interface, but will need an upgrade of its program to use it. The Upgrade is free when you purchase the interface. Once this feature is ready, we'll just have you send in your ScanGauge, and we'll update it. Price has not been finalized yet. It is expected to be under $100. This will also include the software for a windows based computer.
  3. There is a rumor floating around saying that once you hit 999,999 the odometer just quits right there and won't roll over... You got to go to a dealer and have a DRBIII tool to get the actual mileage... I'm hoping it actually does roll over... Last I heard from Caj his like 957K I think... (CRS!)
  4. Right on the money... But I'm working on getting around that...
  5. From what I've heard GlowShift are OK gauges...
  6. Maybe the tech screwed up on telling me the version number... But at any rate I'm going for the update...
  7. No voltage present... Just OHMs... Both end will be discconected... As well as the batteries being disconnected...
  8. Chevron Delo 15W-40... Toilet paper bypass filter that filter down to 1/2 Micron. More here... These filter work good if Dorkweed can do 80K+ miles on WalMart Unverisal 15w-40 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1688-80-000-Miles......No-Full-Oil-Change
  9. Yeap ISX is right... As for the SG it will show zeros most all the time at idle unless there is something to load the engine like a exhaust brake then it will pop up on the scale.
  10. I change oil every 10K miles... But I've got a Frantz filter... The owners manual calls for 7,500 miles... You could have my Honda ATV 2008 in the owners manual requires oil change at 600 miles...
  11. Here you go... Air Dog FASS AirDog are typically quieter pumps...
  12. That's the ECM plug... Go over to the Download area grab a copy of the Dodge FSM for 2001 and turn to page 1053 (8W - 80 - 40) Shows all the pin outs for the ECM...
  13. Welcome to the site... Stick around there is a lot of helpful people here that can teach you more and if they can't I'm sure someone knows of another person that can help...
  14. I look at the profile of the tire and contact patch and base my pressure from that. Also using a tread depth gauge to double check to make sure I'm not over wearing the outside or middle of the tread and adjust accordingly.
  15. Hmmm... 3 possible answers... [*]Blown fuse [*]Blower motor resistor is burnt up [*]Blower motor failed I've never heard of a speed switch failing yet...
  16. Did the housing crack or has corrosion holes in it?
  17. Well the 12V is a simple engine to work on but the 24V still has a few bonuses over... IMHO
  18. Those are the pin numbers of the ECM... But I was showing the larger wiring map to show the ground from the other sensors that connect at S165... But the other smaller wiring diagram will do for you...
  19. Yeap Wild & Free is right about the history of the Father / Son relationship... The other thing to look at is pure size of the equipment which is the other key feature... Both have the same performance as far as fuel pumps but the AD is a MUCH smaller package compared to the FASS...
  20. Here is more on the tire conversation... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_code
  21. Unless your missing body plug in the floor or walls...
  22. Very valid point... I'll admit that I eat my my truck seen every where I go is long distance. But Normally I do vacuum and wash the truck once a week if the weather allows for it. In the time I've been working on vehicle in Idaho (21 years) I've seen a few rigs (no names) that are rather gross on the interior and the parents allow the kids to eat and make a huge mess. Strangely enough that vehicle last I knew was starting to have mice problems...

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