Mopar1973Man

Today's run to town for propane and fuel... EGT: ~400-450*FSpeed: 55 MPHAmbient Temp: +3*FWeather Conditions: Cold, 81% RHYear: 2002Model: 2500Trans: NV4500Driveline: 4WDWinterfront: Yes (IAT Temp 48-54*F @ 195*F coolant)RPM: ~1600Boost: ~2 PSI Edit in the tidbits for ya...

That's my fears... Somewhere down the line there was a reason for the original .010 and .020... I can see shaving a few thousandths off but cutting back to deep I'd start to worry...

There is another place ot hook up and prevent this acid issue... Use the postive stud in the PDC for the alternator and find a bolt in the fender well as a ground then you don't have acid/corrosion problems.

This is what happens to a electric gauge after water hammer has beat it to death... The wild swinging up and down is from the water hammer beating the rheostat back and forth till it wears out or damaged the sender so now you get this wild gauge problem... So you must protect both mechanical gauges as well as electric gauge just the same...

Older 12V's (1st and 2nd Gens) are known for the wild up and down temperature changes.

Well gang... I know a bunch of you have either built your own high idle mod or purchased one through Prowelder or maybe another source. But I know a few of you have had some diagnostic problems in building or have had issues after installing. Well this little write up should walk you through most of it ad figure out what is going on. Ok let get down to tools... You'll need a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) set on ohms. Now lets start with the ECT fooler... Now with the female plug which is the plug that hooks to the ECM we want to measure the ohms at this plug with the fooler in the ON position. It should read 3.3K ohms. If its open check the other male connector and see if the values shows if it does you have your plug sex backward and need to be traded. If open on both test check the wiring for breaks or toggle the fooler switch the other direction. Now for the IAT Fooler Now with the female plug which is the plug that hooks to the ECM we want to measure the ohms at this plug with the fooler in the ON position. It should read 39K ohms on 6 cylinder and 56K ohm on 3 cylinder. If its open check the other male connector and see if the values shows if it does you have your plug sex backward and need to be traded. If open on both test check the wiring for breaks or toggle the fooler switch the other direction. Now lets test the normal mode. This is the normal pass through mode without the foolers... Now here in the normal mode both IAT and ECT fooler should operate the same with 0 Ohms between RED and BLUE arrows. Now you might see a OPEN at this point but trade pins on one plug and see if you get 0 ohm... There should be a pair of 0 ohm wires coming and going probing from the ECM to the sensor plugs. If this remains OPEN double check your fooler switch and make sure its in the OFF positon. Now if it continues to be a open there is a open wire somewhere. Now for error codes with High Idle Mod in place. (IAT Fooler) P0112 means you most likely got a short to ground double check your wiring for cuts, shorts, etc. P0113 means you got a OPEN wire in the fooler go back and test the bypass mode for problems. In any case remove the IAT fooler reset the code and take for a short test drive if the code returns the sensor is at fault. (ECT Fooler) P0117 means you most likely got a short to ground double check your wiring for cuts, shorts, etc. P0118 means you got a OPEN wire in the fooler go back and test the bypass mode for problems. In any case remove the ECT fooler reset the code and take for a short test drive if the code returns the sensor is at fault.

Now there is a mouthful from a guy that covered 900K+ miles... I know Delo is a keeper...

Personally... After been around a trucking company locally for many years and talked to them all found out that they used good ol' Chevron Delo 15W-40 year round no issues and most trucks where crossing the 500K mile mark without much issues. Even my buddy Taz crossed the 600K mile mark with is Dodge Cummins with just fleetguard filters and Chevron Delo 15W-40... I know the last oil change it up to Valvoline Premium Blue 15w-40.

Yeah we did... It came down to pulling the compressor and looking and it had "Black Death" the guts of the compressor where starting to fail. So we called around and ask for the A/C flush... What we found out is NAPA seel the flush but you'd need about $300 worth to clean the system properly. So we ask what it would cost to replace the entire system which turn out to be close to $360 bucks so we ask the owner what he wanted to do... Put a replacement pulley in and omit the A/C completely... $35 bucks... (Smart thinking!)

I normally just pull a heat hose off the head so the air can be bleed out of the system... As for sealants I rarely use any sealant on the engine if I do use a sealant I use very little...

Well really soon I won't have to worry about the fooler switches I should get 3 cylinder high idle without them...

Not at least for all the rig I've worked on out here... Maybe at the worst the dogs have scratch the bed sides up from hanging over the rim...

How does a person get the ABS code(s) out with out a scanner? I know there is a way to do it, just don't know the particulars.... A far as I know the common way is to go to the dealer and use a DRBIII tool but as for shade tree I'm not sure...

Well here is what i got for wiring diagrams for it... I know this is from the 2001 book but it should be close enough to aid you and wire chasing... As for the speedometer it works smoothly right? If it does it shouldn't be the rear sensor but might be another issue of wiring...

What about the re-sale value?

Being forgetful...:banghead: I bought it at NAPA for 10 feet and 2 ferrules cost me all of $6 bucks... (Cheap!)

Someone shoot the owner...

Well he lives in Mississippi somewhere and should be up hunting with his son in Utah...

If you worried get some polyon air brake line and hook it up... Much stronger than cheap nylon tubing and extremely flexable.

Someone in the shop isn't playing with a full deck... Diesels don't have throttle bodies... Just hunting the web I found a set of stock injectors for cheap... ~$1,500 Then you need about couple shops hours to install them...

Heater core plugged? Is the blend door working? (Passenger side)

In that case just replace the housing cover without the t-stat to run your water through... Another way to do it is take the t-stat out, replace the housing and upper hose but leave it disconnected from the radiator. Leave the lower hose hooked up place your hose in the radiator filler hole and start and let run the water pump will draw the water through the system and back out the upper hose...

Sure looks like valve covers to me... I would say the Napa sells gaskets for $6 bucks a piece... Not bad for $36 bucks to replace them all...

Just for the fun fact... This is where my water comes from to flush the block and for reloading the coolant / water mixture... I know a lot of people say only distilled water... 9 years later still absolutely clean...

Same method I've used since day one... My block is rather clean still no corrosion yet, radiator is like new, and all I do is pull both up and lower hose from the radiator. Flow baby flow...