Mopar1973Man

Yeap he's right on the money... EGT location...

You got a speed sensor out... Most likely on the front axle. Mine did the same thing if you were running along and hit the brakes hard the ABS pump would fight you. So once you change out the speed sensor and take a short drive it should fix it... It not a rear sensor if the speedometer is working...

Not a problem that what we are here to do is to help each other...

Yea... CaJ Flynn is proof of that being he crossed the 900K mark... The pre-lube pump was a very popular addon back when I was around DTR. Then kind of disappeared like Scott II air filters...

According to FSM specs for 2001 its 34 gallons for short wheel based and 35 gallons for long wheel base.

How about this one... No pump... http://www.autoenginelube.com/

If you driving anywhere leave early so you can take you time... Don't drink and drive... Don't get too fat eatting Bird...

Funny... There web site still up... But I know that doesn't mean much... http://www.danininc.com/

I agree with W&F you need to back down on the injectors...

My in blue...

On the Timbo APPS there is technically no voltage adjustment. Just keep twisting the stop screw till the voltage rises the back off till its at the orignal voltage and add a 1/2 turn. Basically at the APPS signal rises the ECM is triggered to THROTTLING mode. Then when the throttle is released it should be at IDLE MODE. So be sure your voltage is at its lowest point plus a half turn... As for the dead pedal there is only 2 causes... 1. Bad APPS sensor which ALWAYS throws a code P0121, P0122, P0123... 2. Bad VP44 which doesn't have to toss a code but could... P0215, P0216, P0251, P0252, P0253, P1688, P01689... But like I said not all the time will it throw a code... Now you mention you replaced the lift pump a few times... But didn't mention the fact of what your fuel pressure is. This is critical to know! Remember the only thing that lubes and cools the VP44 is the fuel. So if you short fuel pressure the VP44 can and will take on damage either mechanical (white smoke - failing advancement cam) or electronic (dead pedal). When the fuel pressure start falling below 14 PSI the overflow valve starts to close and reduce the cooling and lubing of the VP44... So since there is no extra fuel leaving the pump because the overflow valve is closed then that means the only fuel to cool and lube the pump is what going to the injections which typical doesn't flow enough. Lack of fuel pressure is like a lack of oil pressure on the engine... Do you expect the engine to survive very long at 10 PSI running 2,500 rpms? Well the VP44 has to live on a very small margin for fuel pressure... Keep it in the green at all time and the VP44 will live a very long and happy live normally...

Today's run to town for propane and fuel... EGT: ~400-450*FSpeed: 55 MPHAmbient Temp: +3*FWeather Conditions: Cold, 81% RHYear: 2002Model: 2500Trans: NV4500Driveline: 4WDWinterfront: Yes (IAT Temp 48-54*F @ 195*F coolant)RPM: ~1600Boost: ~2 PSI Edit in the tidbits for ya...

That's my fears... Somewhere down the line there was a reason for the original .010 and .020... I can see shaving a few thousandths off but cutting back to deep I'd start to worry...

There is another place ot hook up and prevent this acid issue... Use the postive stud in the PDC for the alternator and find a bolt in the fender well as a ground then you don't have acid/corrosion problems.

This is what happens to a electric gauge after water hammer has beat it to death... The wild swinging up and down is from the water hammer beating the rheostat back and forth till it wears out or damaged the sender so now you get this wild gauge problem... So you must protect both mechanical gauges as well as electric gauge just the same...

Older 12V's (1st and 2nd Gens) are known for the wild up and down temperature changes.

Well gang... I know a bunch of you have either built your own high idle mod or purchased one through Prowelder or maybe another source. But I know a few of you have had some diagnostic problems in building or have had issues after installing. Well this little write up should walk you through most of it ad figure out what is going on. Ok let get down to tools... You'll need a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) set on ohms. Now lets start with the ECT fooler... Now with the female plug which is the plug that hooks to the ECM we want to measure the ohms at this plug with the fooler in the ON position. It should read 3.3K ohms. If its open check the other male connector and see if the values shows if it does you have your plug sex backward and need to be traded. If open on both test check the wiring for breaks or toggle the fooler switch the other direction. Now for the IAT Fooler Now with the female plug which is the plug that hooks to the ECM we want to measure the ohms at this plug with the fooler in the ON position. It should read 39K ohms on 6 cylinder and 56K ohm on 3 cylinder. If its open check the other male connector and see if the values shows if it does you have your plug sex backward and need to be traded. If open on both test check the wiring for breaks or toggle the fooler switch the other direction. Now lets test the normal mode. This is the normal pass through mode without the foolers... Now here in the normal mode both IAT and ECT fooler should operate the same with 0 Ohms between RED and BLUE arrows. Now you might see a OPEN at this point but trade pins on one plug and see if you get 0 ohm... There should be a pair of 0 ohm wires coming and going probing from the ECM to the sensor plugs. If this remains OPEN double check your fooler switch and make sure its in the OFF positon. Now if it continues to be a open there is a open wire somewhere. Now for error codes with High Idle Mod in place. (IAT Fooler) P0112 means you most likely got a short to ground double check your wiring for cuts, shorts, etc. P0113 means you got a OPEN wire in the fooler go back and test the bypass mode for problems. In any case remove the IAT fooler reset the code and take for a short test drive if the code returns the sensor is at fault. (ECT Fooler) P0117 means you most likely got a short to ground double check your wiring for cuts, shorts, etc. P0118 means you got a OPEN wire in the fooler go back and test the bypass mode for problems. In any case remove the ECT fooler reset the code and take for a short test drive if the code returns the sensor is at fault.

Now there is a mouthful from a guy that covered 900K+ miles... I know Delo is a keeper...

Personally... After been around a trucking company locally for many years and talked to them all found out that they used good ol' Chevron Delo 15W-40 year round no issues and most trucks where crossing the 500K mile mark without much issues. Even my buddy Taz crossed the 600K mile mark with is Dodge Cummins with just fleetguard filters and Chevron Delo 15W-40... I know the last oil change it up to Valvoline Premium Blue 15w-40.

Yeah we did... It came down to pulling the compressor and looking and it had "Black Death" the guts of the compressor where starting to fail. So we called around and ask for the A/C flush... What we found out is NAPA seel the flush but you'd need about $300 worth to clean the system properly. So we ask what it would cost to replace the entire system which turn out to be close to $360 bucks so we ask the owner what he wanted to do... Put a replacement pulley in and omit the A/C completely... $35 bucks... (Smart thinking!)

I normally just pull a heat hose off the head so the air can be bleed out of the system... As for sealants I rarely use any sealant on the engine if I do use a sealant I use very little...

Well really soon I won't have to worry about the fooler switches I should get 3 cylinder high idle without them...

Not at least for all the rig I've worked on out here... Maybe at the worst the dogs have scratch the bed sides up from hanging over the rim...

How does a person get the ABS code(s) out with out a scanner? I know there is a way to do it, just don't know the particulars.... A far as I know the common way is to go to the dealer and use a DRBIII tool but as for shade tree I'm not sure...

Well here is what i got for wiring diagrams for it... I know this is from the 2001 book but it should be close enough to aid you and wire chasing... As for the speedometer it works smoothly right? If it does it shouldn't be the rear sensor but might be another issue of wiring...