Mopar1973Man

I'm glad it work out for you... I'm surprise yo sat on the outside of the tank and fought for there... I would of sat between the driveshaft and the tank and got it easy... But live and learn...

So that explains why some drop the 315 tires on trying to get the gear ratio back down to 3.55 gear by changing tires... But looking at thes pics will enlighten you a bit. Just the ~20 pound reduction gain me roughly 2-3 MPG... Rotational mass and rolling resistance plays a big roll in MPG game. Big O AT 235/85 R16 Cooper STT 265/75 R16 Comparing the Cooper STT 265/75 R16 to the Big O AT 235/85 R16

On a ZERO degree day I still just wear jeans and a tee shirt... I've been know to walk the ice out here bare foot too... Yeah I'm nuts but like you I think it hot out above 50*F...

If so would you mine posting you results over here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/group.php?groupid=7

That's me now... I get out and get a bunch of work done then sit down and bam... I can'y move for a time... That is the only thing that tells me I'm getting old... My back sings back at me when I over do it...

Hey guys... Remember there is several features for you here if you want to get together and chat the FlashChat module is here for you to use. Just go up to Mopar Site Link and click on Live Chat. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/misc.php?do=flashchat&room=1 Or.. Go to Community on the bar below forum and slect flash chat... To find out who's chating just check the Who's Online box at the bottom of the main page... To get a group together to chat with send some PM's to people a pick a time to get together online... Enjoy guys...

Well I finally got snow!!! :woot:Even on my birthday! Right on!

Man you and the mice... Well I'm glad you found the resistor and possibly replace it now...

Like myself I've got a Edge Comp tapped on 5x5 and RV275 injectors and I never turn it down at all... I can haul heavy firewood and not think twice... This is because I do have 12cm2 (HX35) exhaust housing over the 9cm2 (HY35). I'm just a straight pipe exhaust and a BHAF... This load in the pic set the cruise at 60 MPH and hover at 800-900*F heading home all up hill from Riggins, ID (1,800 to 2,800ft elevation).

Thanks... Just another day on the books for me... Nothing special...

Like I'm finding out that some head crack and exhaust manifold cracks can be silent till the metal warm up a bit then cause all kind of problems. Poor JL Welding been chasing a cracked head for over 2 years... As for the Stanadyne you might look over other products... Not sure which your using... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm

If your worried about cleaning pull the tube and spray it down with carb cleaner or brake cleaner... As for the tube just stuff a rag in the tube and the drop a plasic sack over it...

Geez.. You just so thoughtful... (rubbing it in) Yeap I'm MDT time for the moment but cross the bridge in Riggins, ID (Timezone bridge) and you go to PDT. No cake here... I'm already overweight already need to loose a few pound now...

If you sit up under the truck you can see the top of the tank fairly good but getting the line released can be a royal PITA... You migh have to loosen the lock ring and lift the sender slightly to release the fuel line...

Another way of loooking at it... During my firefighter days I seen a lot of fire truck being pump tested. The last test rig was really cool. He had a trailer with a 2,000 gallon tank and a few bits of plumbing and baffles. Well getting to the point is during a single pump testof 15 minutes we would have to dump that 2,000 gallons and reload the tank why because the pump in 15 minute would raise the water temp from 35-40*F to over 130*F making it unusable for the next test. Ok what this got to do with anything. Well when you look inside a TQ Convertor any of them you got what is like a pump in theory. But the walls of the pump are lined with pockets... So during you stall moment you raising the RPM's great as ISX points out and then drops into gear adding more throtle to keep it going during this time the engine half of the TQ convertor is turn against the Trans part of the TQ converter which is NOT turnning at all! So during this time that you easing out of the throttle the trans fluid in the torque convertor is rises very rapidily causing the fluid to thin out. Now of course this is not heating all the fluid just the TQ Conv. Now like SASQCH points out that once it does idle the LOD number is up to like 20%. So this is showing the fluid drag in the TQ Conv and the fluid is still thick. Now as his trans warm up the LOD drops to 10% or so. Thinking out loud again... --- Update to the previous post... Here is a killer PDF about the toyota TQ Conv but explains the operation really good... http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT02.pdf

Trick to try... Anything your worried about corroding over winter spray a light coat of WD40 on everything and it won't corrode. You don't have to make it dripping wet but to cover the article in a light oilly coating. Just wash with soap and water. Another way but you'll hate it is to cover the article in car wax and then buff it out in the spring. I found this works too but the wax really harden up after a long sit and is a real PITA to get back off.

Suggestion... Since the truck doesn't fit in a garage... Do you have any large tree(s) or other covering structure like a barn? Like out here every vehicle has a place of cover. Like the 2 daily driver pickups are in the garages and the older cars even though they are not use are parked under trees with tarps on them. The hail still makes it down to the cars but... The rate of fall is slowed considerably...

Valve adjustment... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/valve-adj/valve-adj.htm Too much timing? Use a live data tool and check the IAT sensor for correct temperature. Incorrect IAT temp can/will offset the timing more advanced. Plus on top of that the standyne is a cetane booster... Cetane improvers modify combustion in the engine. They encourage early ignition of the fuel. They encourage premature combustion and excessive rate of pressure increase in the combustion cycle.

The only reason why I say that I don't agree with them... 1. It mounts in the factory location. Too far from the fuel tank a pump is not designed to suck... A pump is design to push fuel. 2. FASS DDRP is only rated for 45 GPH which just happens to be 10 above a stock Carter pump. Bosch requires at least 70% of the fuel return to the tank so if the WOT of astock truck is around 18-20 GPH how can a 40-45 GPH pump supply 70% volume return it can't... This is why I suggest at least a 95-100 GPH pump even stock. So that right back to FASS, AirDog or Raptor. 3. By the time you add a big line kit and relocate the pump and get done you spent more money on the FSS DDRP pump and the big line kit than a Raptor... 4. The other sad part is the FASS DDRP is not a lifetime warranty. AirDog, Raptor and full FASS are lifetime warranties...

Thank you... I think I need to change deodorant then... Sniff Ugh! Well I guess wisdom comes with age... Thank you sir!

Thank you Mom... Love's and Kiss back at you!

Holy cow! Man that is a mess... You need to clean your desk more often! But I do like the desk itself well made and mounted to the wall...

I still keep thinking its something to do with the trans/TQ conv. Because like you said ISX if you got it pass the stall point and ran for few second problem is gone. So I'm going to assume the trans fluid / TQ Conv is lugging down the truck.

Might consider dropping the blower motor out and take a look at it...

From what I remember a lot of that could be done by yourself with a suction cup. I'm pretty sure NAPA or simular part stores carry them.