Mopar1973Man

Full set of gauges... Fuel Pressure, Pyrometer, Boost, Transmission Temp.

Then do a test run the boost should never rise above 35 PSI. If it is the open/unscrew the allen screw a 1/8 of turn and test again... Keep doing this till you see roughly 34-35 PSI...

I'm sure if you contact Edge they would most likely sell you one...

Like my Edge Comp elbow produces 35 PSI... But the adjustable elbow I got needs a bit of tuning because it doesn't shut enough so it produces barely 25 PSI...

Nope the pics didn't post...

Ahh... We hit a nerve there... So if you needing to jump start and the battery condition is poor I going to bet money you got a issues somewhere in the charging system...

Sounds like it...

No... The case cover and gear case appears identical to a non-stepped... The only way to tell is to open the gase case...

Typically they always show a code when there bad... P0121, P0122, or P0123... That's why I suggested checking the alternator too... Because the alter AC noise will cause this too... Bad grounds on the passenger side battery...

Yes its a plastic plug and its got o-rings in it and they most likeyl giving up the ghost now... As for pulling them apart I'm sure there is a way to pull the plug and service the plug.

Holy Cow! Talk about talent! Wow!

As far as I know of the 2001 model year is rare to find a KDP problem... It extremely rare to find it on the 2002 models... I've only seen 1 report of 2002 with a broken gear case under warranty... They even had pics of the receipt showing its a 2002 Dodge and pics of the broken gear case...

Like my little cheap SGII shows IAT and MAP signals... But my SGII mis-reports the MAP sensor as being like 28.3 PSIa (atomshpere). I really hate pointing the finger at the ECM so far the few I've talk to have no way to test ECM other that full replacement with a new ECM. But remember there is 46 different ECM's... Federal, California, 5 speed, 6 speed, automatic, etc... ECM's are not cheap...

Yeah the software is already present on all 24V 98.5 to 2002 Dodge trucks but the software was disabled by Dodge so yes you must have it re-enabled to be able to use it. As for the wear factor... The 3 dead cylinders are 1,2,3 and the 3 firing cylinders are 4,5,6... As for wear there is none because the 1,2,3 are just pumping air no fuel is injected at all. So these dead cylinders create a virtual loading of the engine causing the engine to warm up rapidily... Like my truck produces between 600-1,000*F worth of EGT's with exhaust brake and either 6 or 3 cylinder high idle... Oh... W & F I know about the term too but I think is a losing battle...

As for what I did in my truck was simple... There is only 3 wires running in the cab for power... I've got a 14 AWG wire straight from the batteries with a 20 Amp fuse. Then I tapped only 1 fuse for a trigger and put a relay on it switching the battery lead to follow the key so there is no internal loading of the stock wiring. Then I pulled a ground from the battery as well but all 3 wires are ran to a terminal board behind the knee bolster so I've never got to mess with fuse or otherwise again...

I would try replacing the IAT and MAP sensors first before the ECM... Also check the driver side ground on the battery since this is the main ground for the ECM. Maybe a weak connector? Typically when a ECM goes all sensors show a hi volt or low volt code...

Yeah the few that I ran across that where hard starting all had leaky injectors... But that my 2 cents...

With RV275 I'm always just over the 20 MPG mark empty... 3.55 Gears, 235/85 R16 tires, Edge Comp on 5x5...

P1688 is a injection pump failure... Replace the injection pump to get it running... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2627-P1688-Internal-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Controller-Failure?highlight=p1688 But it would be nice to know what your fuel pressure is too... As for the MAP sensor it will run still with a bad MAP sensor it will even run without but in limp mode for both...

I know the answer on the failure and was shown why they fail... I've been working on trying to find a exploded view of a CR injector so I could do a write up... The CR injector have a valve in them that is basically a BB in a seat. The electromagnet pulls the BB up from the seat causing there to be a loss of pressure above the pintle needle and POP the injector fires. The magnet releases the BB and seats against the hole once again and the injector stops firing. But now add <10 micron debris and it hones out the hole the BB sit on and the the BB can't seal the pressure causing the pressure to bleed constantly so the pintle is always bleeding fuel constantly. This what causes big issues with CR engine because once the injectors are leaking constantly it will start to wash out the piston rings and increase blow by... So like AH64ID he's added secondard filters and reduced the micron rating to 2-3 micron to protect his injectors...

Thanks... That is really handy for a weather map... To return the favor... Here is Idaho travel map with weather towers and highway cameras... http://511.idaho.gov/ I'm sure if you dig around there is others for your state...

Yeah your most likely right if the gap of the bar is wide enough to allow the chain to rock back and forth then yes the cut will spiral as well... You don't want ot see my 26" bar it well wore out...

I've got a easy way to remember winter stuff... Here in Idaho I'm not permitted to run irragation water year round. I've got to shut down the water and drain the lines every year at Oct 20th and then can setup the irragation again in Apr 15... So at this time I put my winter fronts and take them back off in Apr... Now... Extreme testing I ran with my winter front on as high as 55-60*F outside with no problems of cooling. Engine temp never crossed 197*F but would continue to run about 195*F as typical.

I've also got a 20 ton splitter too... (Yes the ATV got marked by the the dog "Diesel") But looking at your spiral cut thats a sign that one side of the chain is dull from hitting rocks or dirt. With my Sthl 046 I can run my 32" bar and cut a 36" round in just over 1 minute... I can buck a full cord of rounds in just about 1/2 tank of fuel in the saw... So if you needing huge amount of fuel to cut round either the saw is too small and/or the chain is dull...

Like I tell everyone it time to get basic to basics... What is required of a diesel engine to run? 1. Fuel2. Compression So is the fuel rail getting pressure? Any air in the fuel? Grid heater is not a huge requirement to make it start but it will help... You might baby it by plugging in the block heater... If the block heater is plugged in you can un hook the grid heaters and give a small burst of starter fluid and see if it pops... If so you know you got good compression. So then I would double check the ECM to be sure it getting power and coming online to fire the injectors...