Mopar1973Man

What about the re-sale value?

Being forgetful...:banghead: I bought it at NAPA for 10 feet and 2 ferrules cost me all of $6 bucks... (Cheap!)

Someone shoot the owner...

Well he lives in Mississippi somewhere and should be up hunting with his son in Utah...

If you worried get some polyon air brake line and hook it up... Much stronger than cheap nylon tubing and extremely flexable.

Someone in the shop isn't playing with a full deck... Diesels don't have throttle bodies... Just hunting the web I found a set of stock injectors for cheap... ~$1,500 Then you need about couple shops hours to install them...

Heater core plugged? Is the blend door working? (Passenger side)

In that case just replace the housing cover without the t-stat to run your water through... Another way to do it is take the t-stat out, replace the housing and upper hose but leave it disconnected from the radiator. Leave the lower hose hooked up place your hose in the radiator filler hole and start and let run the water pump will draw the water through the system and back out the upper hose...

Sure looks like valve covers to me... I would say the Napa sells gaskets for $6 bucks a piece... Not bad for $36 bucks to replace them all...

Just for the fun fact... This is where my water comes from to flush the block and for reloading the coolant / water mixture... I know a lot of people say only distilled water... 9 years later still absolutely clean...

Same method I've used since day one... My block is rather clean still no corrosion yet, radiator is like new, and all I do is pull both up and lower hose from the radiator. Flow baby flow...

Your not worried... You'll be cruising in the air...

Shot my HX35 is handling close to 400 HP without a problem and still got fairly quick spool up... EGT temp are fair to OK with stock 3" straight pipe.

Yeah I relize the pump design is different but the principal should be the same... ( I think...)

So I crawl to the door big deal... I've got built in armor... Fat belly...

Ummm... My simple way...

Not to worried... I grew up in Los Angeles Ca. So I know how to bail for the door frames or out the door as the ground is moving 6.5-7.0...

Should matter but it could be I was running server stuff and it might of kick your post out...

Explain the diode thing for JohnFak... What happen is a diaode in the alternator will fail and short. Then when the vehicle is running you'll have a hopping AC waveform on the DC +12V signal now the freqency will change with RPM's so now at the point of 40-50 MPH the frequency drives the PCM nuts and causes this weird TQ converter lock/unlock. Then as the RPM increase more the frequency gets so high is just smooth and the PCM can't see it no longer... This is why the tin foil the alternator lead and noise filters on the APPS line are installed normally because a diode in the alternator failed... I look at it this way the truck ran normally without aids of wiring changes for many year and now a problem with lock up occurs... Adding a wiring mod or filters isn't the answer but finding the actual cause is...

I don't know all the numbers and details but... Well now let look at it... Oil enters the center tube and is pumped to the top of the toilet paper roll and then forced through the toilet paper edge wise downward. It leaves on the outer ring through the screen. So now take a look at tight wound TP roll and look at it from the edge to edge I but it can easily 1/2 micron... Now the flow rate is extremely slow because of the TP compressed media... Like w&F points out if you aim for a super tight filter media the flow rates start to suffer to a point then the second part is when does the filter go into bypass mode? Yes... This does happen with stock filters that they actually plug up and go into a bypass mode to keep the engine lubed but the filter is no longer functional. So what is a good balance of filter without over choking and under-filtering? So in my mind Fleetguard and a bypass filter should keep it clean... As for Mopar some of them are Fram repainted filters... (Cars) But looking between that simple paper element to a roll of TP...

Same here... But I know that Idaho uses tons and tons of salt... The secret is to keep the truck washed...

All I can say is no matter what you buy its going to be expensive for a 4WD truck... It least it was for me...

Well it proves the point that good fuel pressure equals good cooling and lubrication of the VP44... Below 14 it starts to get marginal... Below 10 your asking for VP44 failure...

On a dry fuel system I normally prime all the way to the injection pump and make sure the fuel is running out of the banjo bolt or fuel line at the VP44... Then crack 1,3,4 and go to cranking... When I see fuel spray like a power washer under the hood I know I tighten the fuel lines... Dribbling doesn't count... VP44 pump still produces 4,000-5,000 PSI during cranking so it should spray everywhere if primed. Then tighten 1,3,4 and fire up... Simular to ISX video that he did cracking injection lines...

I bet you own one too... Actually my dobbie has the nickname of "Dork"