Mopar1973Man

Wire to the VP44 is not hooked up... This is tapped...

Typically they don't get wet under the hood... But if it does you'll know because the filter minder will be drawn down to the RED zone limit... As for my filter its 6 years old (120K miles) and I gotten it wet several different times without a problem. The secret is if you do get it really wet (during washing the engine bay) to allow it time to dry before starting the truck. But as for typical daily driving in heavy rains... Naw... It just fine...

fuel pump relay is for the VP44 and that is what tripped the code so I would replace that relay soon...

That's truely sad to hear... Sorry to hear you got the grand lemon in the pile... I've been digging all over the internet looking for service manuals for the VP44 or any Bosch fuel system pumps... I'm going to try contacting Bosch directly really soon...

1) just unscrew the fan clutch and remove the fan... (Left hand thread - 36mm wrench) 2) That's a heat exchanger for the trans fluid... (If I'm not mistaken)...

Cooling System? - Thermostat, coolant, water pump, cap, pressure test, etc. Compression test? - Just do it and report the numbers... (Explain later)

Wow! Sorry to hear about your wife losing her job...

Right on...

Side note... Miss corrected... Re-torqued my injector caps and problem solved...

Any codes? As slow speeds usually the TQ Conv is unlocked... By chance do you have a bad Trans Relay in the PDC?

Usually on the passenger side near the blower motor. I looked it up in my Mitchell 1 books but doesn't list a location... Sorry Russ!

Thanks W&F I'll check that out...

Yeah keep the pics coming!

Personally I would of kept the governor... As for jets... I wonder if you got a vacuum leak instead that is messing with the mixture? Float level to low? Air Jets dirty or damaged?

Oh yeah I forgot about the old torch where the flame color told you the leak... (If I remember right) Yeah your right about the dye. Since my leak was in the evaporator it didn't show up at all... The funny part was I dump the drier can out and let the oil drip out a clean bucket and in about 15-30 minutes the dye color disappears. So if it was a slow leak and hidden you might not find it...

Yeap... Way to much pressure on the low side...http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1099 I'm just above the cutoff switch and maybe use another can but... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1095 It's down right cold in the cab...

Ummm... Just lift the dash slightly and the HVAC comes right out... Another reason I didn't bother to pull my dash is my gauge pod plumbing and wiring is wrapped up in the dash. Plus on top of that the dah was heavy as hell... I think more so heavy that early 2nd Gen's...

Main level. (First number) 1. 40 HP 2. 60 HP 3. 80 HP 4. 100 HP 5. 120 HP Sublevel (Second number) Defuel mode - These 3 levels are design for smoke control. The fuel rate is cut below stock rates! 1. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI Boost pressure. 2. 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI Boost pressure. 3. 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI Boost pressure. Power Mode. 4. Some extra fuel at 0 PSI boost. 5. Full fuel at 0 PSI boost. Explaination... [*]Main level is the maximum amount of fuel and timing you'll recieve total from the Edge Comp. The higher the main level more timing and fuel given total. [*]Sublevel is how fast you get to max fuel and timing in relationship to boost pressure. [*]Running a Edge Comp or Edge Juice un-tapped with only net you 40 HP regardless of the level settings... [*]Running a Edge Comp on 5x5 will net you the best MPGs with a light foot. [*]Remember using a 1-3 sublevel will keep you most likely in below stock power band till you exceed the boost pressure limit so if you normal cruise 60 MPH is 3-4 PSI of boost you need to at least run #4 on the sublevel to get a timing/fuel enhancement.

WTH??? You pulled your seats out! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1034 Still got my seats in...

That was my thought too... Being the owner doesn't seem to have the code this time... Also I forgot to mention the fact he had it completely shut down once throw a few error codes including ECM failure... Then waited for about 15 mintues and it fired right back up like nothing happened... I suggested a wet or loose connection to this problem...

Ah Geez... I want to grab my diving gear and get suited up and haul right down the beach and enjoy the salt water again... Chasing lobsters and crabs... (Dreamin') Yes I'm a certified SCUBA diver too...

I got a neighbor up the road from me with a 3rd Gen (03 or 04). He's got a few problems... P0483 - Fan clutch problem? Then high rail pressure error... What to do about the fan clutch and high rail pressure...

Ok... I can play too... I post again at the high point...

As for the vent controls sound like a vacuum leak. As for the A/C you need to fire up the truck and check and see if the compressor is coming on and cycling on/off constantly... This is a sign of low pressure. If its me I would get a dye pack nad add that to the system and them recharge. Then using a black light check for leaks. I know you limited on movement but is a solution to chasing down the problem. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1036 To bad you on the other side of the island I would be more that happy to grab my gauges and charge it back up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1057

Hey ISX (and others) you guys were asking about the temp gauge in my truck under my dash well I found my documents for it... Made By: Pana-Pacific Corp http://www.panapacific.com/ Here is a Ebay listing... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pana-Pacific-Digital-Clock-Temperature-Guage-Alarm-12v-/320541686107?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa1c5f95b Pana-Pacific-Gauge.PDF