Mopar1973Man

One the 12V series they have buzzers like ISX shown and some are in the fuse panel and some are just under the knee bolster... But now get to the 24V series they embedded the chime (dinger) in the central timer box so if you disconnect that you lose a bunch of things like wipers and other needed stuff. But if you remove the box or find the hole and cover it with duct tape or silcone. I imagine if your smart and looked over the wiring you might even find the trigger lead in the door..

It a power chirp... Something only Cummins has... Actually its totally normal and its caused from the engine stopping faster than the belt and CHIRP!...

Most wil say AMSoil...

Strange but true... I look at it from another point of veiw... But I look at it as its already broke what do you have to loose in trying to fix it. So pulling out the tool box and turning wrench on the truck doesn't bother me one bit. I'll work on engines not a problem... Transmissions well I'm not exactly willing to jump in that arena but when the time comes yeah I make the jump. As for axles/diffs that is a different story too... But since I do live in middle of nowhere Idaho and a mechanic shop is just so far away it best I just dig in and get the proper tools and do it myself. But I agree with you ISX that the only way to do it!

I going on the hunch the slave cylinder wasn't bled properly. Then it would have a short throw. Even mine broke the tabs the very first pedal hit... Truely you don't need the tabs to install a slave it does help keep the slave from pushing out while trying to get the nuts on... What got me scratch my head is if the slave was short throw like it was and never broke the tabs so the trans should of been tough shifting because of the input shaft dragging with the flywheel.

Funny part is since there isn't enough room for 2 guys to work on it 1 of them has to be a supervisor...

Smart idea!

Now that a new twist on this whole thing... I wonder if the ECM is groung through the case of it???

As far as 98.5 to 2002 its power steering fluid but somewhere in the 3rd Gen it switch to ATF...

Have a little faith John you understand what's going on it just that you need more confidence in what you doing... Which comes by doing it yourself and time...

Actually once again there is no reason to adjust the APPS at the PCM... PCM has no bearing on the engine... The only thing the PCM wants to see is throttle position for Auto Trans shift reason and it feed throttle information to the ECM for cruise control... Still and all the ECM is more important to get the value right... Which is setting the APPS below the set on the tag... Anywhere below...

So we need to find some 4" band clamps... I know the local Chevron don't have any here... Back to you ISX...

Actually I was thinking along my line of my miss that the cleaners tend to thin the fuel plus the heat makes the fuel so thin its difficult to get it to pop at idle. But now add the 2 cycle oil and drive the cSt up a few more notches making the fuel thicker and now you can reach pop pressure constantly. Like today I drove to Riggins twice in 105*F temps and never have a miss... I even shut the A/C off and let the pyro cool before shutdown and never heard it today... But yesterday after climbing hills in Casade, ID I heard it miss a few but... Now it gone again... A buddy of mine in town tonight gave me a idea of is it possible the pintle is not sealing good and some compression is leaking into the nozzle causing a misfire or slight miss? But you'd see that on a pop test I would assume between pop pressure ad the leak down pressures?

Error codes? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Typically I lot of people find out its a APPS sensor problem... You might try a re-calibrate... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm

Here you go... I knew someone did it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1122-Dual-rear-wheel-to-single-rear-wheel-conversion?highlight=dually

I'm in the same boat... My miss still exist even after cleaning the injectors... But extremely slight and very small miss now. Yes... Its a very random miss that only occurs after hard runs like hauling firewood or climbing the grade to McCall... I can give you this much... It injector caused... If I return back to my stock injectors nothing no miss no problem. Put the RV275's back in and boom! Slight miss while hot. But mine might miss one day and then be several days again till it does again or heavy hauling... Now I've tried cleaners... No good makes it worse... Double dose of 2 cycle oil nearly kill the miss but to expense to keep up... So there is my tidbit of clues maybe you'll find answer from this...

Thanks... Next time I head towards a big city I'll look to pic some up... Try me... Drag your truck down here and I'll show you the tool box... I'll go find a beer and comfy chair and then grab my little video camera...

No joke... I assembled a Dodge 360 CID V8 engine in a little over 12 hours... That means starting with a empty block and putting all the parts on it and tuning and adjusting everything plus putting the engine back in a truck body and starting it... So if I can build a V8 360 engine in 12 hours why would you need 20 hours for a simple gasket???

I would like to get to around 30 PSI and hold it there to inspect the boots and see if they actually touching the fenders etc...

Hence... Why I got a USED scotch bright pad one that was really soft and won't scar the injector... I know what you mean about a new pad it will eat the metal right up and scar it quick... As for the Cameo could you post a link to the product I've never heard of it...

I really don't understand 20 hours... Remove VP44, injection lines, fuel filter housing, and any plumbing in the way... I think there is 5 botls holding the cover on. Pull the brittle seal off and slip the new on the edge. Reassemble in reverse order... If it wasn't for the VP44 I'd tell you go for it yourself... Even the VP44 isn't really to bad...

Well I'd love to do a setup like your but got a problem there isn't any other hoses on a 24V the only one would be the the waste gate hose... So as to build a cap you need a short piece of 4" ABS sewer tube about 2" long, ABS 4" cap, and a rubber sewer boot with clamps... Glue the cap to the pipe. Drill a hole for your fitting since it plastic it self tapping. Then just clamp on the turbo mouth. Then air it up using a regulated air source! Words of warning the boot can hold 20-25 PSI of pressure but you find the cap trying to work its way out of the clamp so I suggest to keep the pressure down to 5-10 PSI and use soap water mixture and look for bubbles. Now looking at you pic thought ISX there is a 3/4" pipe plug in the side of the head where my boost gauge hooks up I wonder if there is a way to cover the mouth of the turbo solid enough to pump it up to say 30-35 PSI...

Its a Cummins it can haul it...

Nope you sound like your on track for the most part... Just take your time be safe about having that beast way up in the air... I use a pull strap from frame to frame to protect me from the trans if it should fall. Make sure the throw-out bearing gets up on the collar of the input shaft... You'll know because the slave hole the fork will be close to the hole if correct if not it will be deep inside...

Funny... I got to stand on the front tire to wash my windshield... I'm not short by no means at 6' 2"...