Mopar1973Man

Ummm... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poker_Face_(Lady_Gaga_song)

During cranking the lift pump is modulated at 50% duty cycle... Once the engine is started the lift ump runs at 100% duty cycle... Can be seen here in this video...

No... They should be replaced as pairs... Because of the sole fact there is a fine amount of wear on the race and the new bearing will ride funny on a old race and might fail early... At least what I learn on 2 1/2 ton military trucks... Changed lots of those bearing (Ugh)... Funny part is I remove the inner seal the same way... Slide hammer the bearing against the nut...

Only thing that sucks is that since you got the quadzilla hooked up the numbers are going to be all wrong for MPG... That's why I went to ScanGauge II at least I can calibrate it... www.scangauge.com As for temp display my little gauge a friend gave me does more... [*]Inside & Outside [*]Max record for inside and outside temps [*]Min record for inside and outside temps [*]alarm clock [*]min temp alarm for inside or outside temp [*]max temp alarm for inside or outside temp [*]time Don't ask where to get the gauge... I wish I knew where my friend got it because it really cool gauge...

Well after a long wait... I finally got a heater core and got it back together. Come to find out doing a A/C evaporator and heater core are simple jobs to do really... I think the forum hyper and rumors make it sound horrid to do... Really it's not bad... Time consuming but not bad. First thing to pull the battery cables. The big thing is getting the engine bay side first get everything out of your way. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1039 Evacuate the A/C system and drain your coolant down some for the heater hose. Pull the hoses loose on both the A/C and the heater core. There is 4 nuts holding the HVAC box on the engine side. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1037 One is hidden under the PCM. Make sure to use duct tape or simular to cover the pipe ends from getting dirt in anything. Now the dash is easy... 2 bolts under each kick panel just loosen them and leave in the body. If you got a manual like me you got to pull up the console. Under the console is 2 nuts and 2 bolts. Now pull your knee bolster and take the 2 nuts out holding the sterring column. Let the steering column rest on the driver seat. Take the 5 screw across the dash top out. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1035 At this point have a tie strap handy. Take the passenger side and lift up slightly and slide outwards off the bolt. Don't get overly carriered away be careful with all the plastic. Tie the dash up using the strap. At this point you got a few more nuts. There is 3 nuts to pull here. Rught next to the in/out vent door there is a nut hidden in the corner. Then there is 2 nuts stacked on the stud near the heater core. The ground strap in hooked to it.. Now back to the driver side and look for the vacuum connection. It will be rapped in foam it should be near the drivers side floor vent. The electrical on the passenger side needs to be pulled loose too. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1034 now the HVAC box is ready to come out. Carefully wiggle the box around and it should pop out off the firewall. Guide it to the passenger side floor and slide it out under the dash. You'll need to lift it slightly being careful of the the dash and HVAC box. Don't force anything... If it not coming out double check yourself again... Whew! HVAC is out of the dash now. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1090 Now the heater core is held in by 3 screw and it can be removed by pulling straight up. Nothing hard or difficult. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1088 As for the A/C evaporator that requires the case to be split open. There is a mess load of phillip screws running the edge of the box. Now there is 1 screw hidden under a floor vent cover carefully pry the cover off to access it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1086 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1087 Flip the case back over to the other side (screw holes pointing down). Now carefully pry the HVAC case open and lift the top off everything. A/C Evaporator case be lifted out and replaced at this point. But I highly suggest blow out with compressed air the ducts and fan. Your going to need a roll of weather stripping foam to reseal the A/C evaporator and heater core. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1093 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1092 Somethings to be careful of during re-assembly. Make sure your careful of the vent doors in side the HVAC case. There is a spring loaded door that you must be careful to not crush or damage. Then the blend door you got to line up the pivot post. Now re-install the HVAC case back in the dash the reverse order you took it out. As for recharging the system... What you need... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1057 Should look like this hooked up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1096 Drawing down a vacuum. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1097 Then shut your manifold and shut down the vacuum pump. Just for protection I got a can of PAG oil charge for the system. Once you got the can hooked up and punctured I bleed the yellow hooks at the manifold just crak it open and purge the air out. With the vacuum present I opened the low side valve and allow the oil charge to be drawn in. Closed it and switched cean to freon and bleed again. I allowed the first can to be pushed into the system. Now I started the engine. I continued to add freon one can at a time. I also used a bucket of hot water from the tap to help push the freon into the system. But I added 4 cans of freon on got to this point as seen on the gauges. now I got ot remember my current outside temps are about 55*F so the freon will expand more as the days warm up. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1099 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1094 Nice part is... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1095

that's as close as I get... Well like the shop that did my front axle bearings. After it was all said and done the the mechanic screwed up the ABS sensor and go the front axle seals leaking. In a nice and calm manner I requested to have these problems dealt with on there nickle. They did... I had 2 brand new ABS sensor install corrected one problem and then I was sent to another shop to have the seals replaced. The only thing I invested was the time to drive down and the fuel (180 miles 1 way for 2 trips). So needless to say yes a front bearing job endup costly me about $1,100 bucks but the truck was repair to my specs again! Yes I still do business with the orignal shop (Big 0 Tires - Ontario, OR). The guys are great people! So there is my story...

It's taken 22 years of hard work to get this far... As for more vids I got a batch today from the north of me on the highway... I got to get them compiled here soon... Oh yeah... No nice tone of a Cummins... How about a V8 Gasser 5.9L Mopar...

I would get the codes for sure... It really bad to start chuckin' parts at a problem and guessin' it can get really expensive...

My Mitchell One book shows 4 shop hours to change a VP44... Then just figure their shop rate against it...

(shakin' my head) Oh My Gawd... That's just plain wrong... I would drive another vehicle down the and demand he repairs it at you place with the proper parts... You wonder how guys like this survive and make a living...

Glad to hear its fixed...

It could be in the cab the IOD (ignition off draw)... But check the fuses...

Time to check wiring... The network wiring... There is also a fuse that powers the plug too... In any case you need acces to that plug... The error code will tell you exactly what is wrong...

Dry and rough... (I just had too)

Umm... Stock up for a month??? This room has shelves and all 4 walls fill with food and one running down the middle... Oh yeah we only go shopping once a month... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1080

Mine hovers right at 193-195*F empty... Loaded I'm seeing 197*F... This is on the SGII but stock gauge hovers at 190*F.

Actually no... There is much more to it... Because no boost was still like 300 PSI compression... There was displacment, compression ratio, and boost pressure... I do remember that ^ was used in the math... _________________ Added to the post... Found this... So in the Atmosphere pressure just add you boost pressure to the 14.7 PSIA figure... (35+14.7=49.7 PSIA) I'm pretty sure Cummins is 16.3 or 17.0 Ratio... (SO and HO) (17.0) ^ 1.3 x 49.7 = 1,976.7 PSI compression pressure... (35 PSI boost) (17.0) ^ 1.3 x 14.7 = 584.7 PSI compression pressure... (0 boost) I know if someone want to verify the formula and the math...

If you look at a PCM on a manual trans the PCM is like got no wires... I bet the Auto trans has ton of wire going to the PCM...

By chance do you have the math for that figures??? I would love to add it to my collection of weird things...

Geez... Did you drive around in circle? Also you never even got to a traffic light? Little less that Idaho... Ummm... Yea... Ok... Here is where i've been workin' ...

I've been looking for a service manual for Bosch fuel injection pumps for a very long time now... It must be one of the toughest documents to hunt for... But as for rebuilding a VP44 that would be a awesome job to do...

Did you pinch a wire during install??? A lot of times when you short a wire to ground it creates a HI volt code...

As for your question... I would say around 450-500 HP... Most people say they can't get a vP44 over 550-600 HP without serious changes somewhere or using drugs. So I would have to safely say about 450-500 HP...

Change your cap? Maybe the cap seal finally broke down a bit and leaking pressure off so the boiling point is lower now and the coolant is leaking out of the system into the bottle. Maybe got a air bubble in the system but with a weak cap it won't burp out...

Ok so its one of the front axle wheel sensors either came unplugged, got wet connection or failed...