Mopar1973Man

Look back at the fuel filter side just behind it is a long cover just above cam level. It covers the tappets/push rods. The vent hose will be right around cylinder 5 or 6...

What might be the big difference is the air filter steup... Stock airbox will muffle the noise really good... But a BHAF will allow the turbo whistle to come through really good...

You already had it done look back on the tappet cover and towards the rear of the engine you'll see you down pipe...

Interesting design change.... I really wonder how long the down pipe hose will last with oil residue?

Huh? Mine is tuck behind the transfer case and protected by a skid plate???

Check the black/tan color wires of Connector 1 pins 31 and 32 for good ground... That is the main ground on the PCM... Check light green/black wire of connector 1 pin 2 for switched +12V power... Check red/white wire of connector 1 pin 22 for constant +12V power... Should be the same voltage as the battery for both of the above test. So for the key on measure your battery voltage and measure the pin of the connector and see if they match.

Something is wore out in that assembly... Plastic piece wore out? How about he copper contacts is there enough wear that the sliding copper pieces are not holding tight ot the board?

Go here for the turbo inspection... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/turbo/turbo.htm Sound like a sensor or other issue... Check your error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

Welcome idahocountryboy... Sandpoint geez we should get together and try to fix this problem being your at least in the great state of Idaho Thinkin' more about it... [*]Boost leaks. [*]Drive pressure leaks. (Exhaust manifold cracked) [*]Wastegate not closing completely. [*]Plugged air filter. Is the boost gauge electric or mechanical? Are you seeing excessive black smoke? (Typically found with lack of boost)

Keep em' comin'

Currently I'm set for 2 modes... 56K ohm resistor for 13*F IAT temp39K ohm resistor for 26*F IAT temp so its just a matter of replacing the resistor with a high ohm rating to drive the IAT down...

If you do figure it I I'll be the first one to post the write up (HTML Page) of the answer...

Get pics of it... If it works out we might have a full write up of how to save a few bucks on Multi-function switch...

Boy this thing really got you going around and around fighting this wiring setup... Man I wish I could be there I would love to dive in and figure this out with you...

Sweet love the tailgate... Still need more pics... Bring in on guys and gals...

So send the Edge back to Edge Inc and have them bench test it for a small amount...

Come on gang lets get the pictures going... I've got the stuff together I need more pics... Come on guys and gals... I need More! I know there is a bunch of you out there come on guys and gals get those pics in... I want to get this video going soon...

Good to hear...

So I already know the IAT curcuit and just got to pull it out and get my DVM after it looking for a short in the wire since the code is a P0113 high volts... So the ECM leg is most likely shorted to itsself... :banghead:

If you got to use belt dressing on a auto-adjusted serpentine belt you better look at the auto adjuster for failure... If your dressing the belt because of the power chirp... Well get a GoodYear Gatorback belt and it will be gone but the belts are spendy....

Best I can say is check over Ebay or CraigsList... http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?Model%2520Year=2001&_trkparms=65%253A12%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A3483&_nkw=dash%20bezel%20dodge%20ram&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245.l1513&_pgn=1

You got to remember all my notes are right here on the web site so I share all my knowledge with everyone... Yeap I did right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm Or...

I'm sorry to say I'm not very good with Automatic transmissions but there is a few guys here that are excellent information sources. Like Wild & Free is my guy that is really up on the autos you might send him a PM... As for tech help I can point you to the Dodge FSM book... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=41 You might check over this write up and see if this might apply to you... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/trans/trans.htm

Sensor is good but the high idle wiring has a random issue.... Yes the CEL was trip as soon as the -40*F was displayed on the SGII... So like I tell everyone that sees MAP sensor codes with a box... Pull the addon stuff off, clear the code and take it for a drive if the code is gone then the box is to blame... If the code comes back then the sensor is to blame... So in my case I removed the addon wiring cleared the code and drove the rest of the day without a problem so the addon wiring is to blame...

Heck... My 1983 Goldwing GL1100 had crosshatch still at 85K miles when I blew the head gasket and that just standard oil engine oil 10w-30 or 10-40w and honda filters... All I'm pointing out is that today's engine oil is head and shoulders above yester-year... Just something to consider because there is at least 2 members here with over 500K miles on just standard petroluem oil...