Mopar1973Man

Not to mention DSL... Well yes there is a certain amount of livability but there is no convenance to anything here...

We do as a matter of fact but sad but true the troubled economy force the close to me to close...

Really easy... Head 15 miles from my place into Riggins, ID and then turn up the Big Salmon River road and travel to the end of the road 26 miles to Vinegar Creek and head due east on foot or boat... There is several foot trails that are in that area... Here a pic from Florence Area just west of there... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=987

The more I keep talking to people the more they just don't understand the fact I live in the middle of nowhere. I'm a long ways from a big city or a town with supplies... What I'm going to do is post 2 pictures of Google Map with my surrounding towns and show you what I got... Now remember I'm not exactly in New Meadows, ID proper I'm 20 miles north of New Meadows, ID I'm exactly 3/4 of mile south of Pinehurst Trading post. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=985 Council, ID (52 miles) is one place I pick up parts for my truck bvut if I was to travel south I would have to go to either Boise or Ontario, OR for part beyond that. For grocery shopping I head to McCall (35 miles) for food shopping (basics). All the other towns in between are like ghost town just basics food and fuel if that. Ontario, OR is the first large town you come across with a WalMart and a K Mart. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=984 Now going north is same way... Riggins (15 miles) is my typical town I hang around in. It got fuel, food, and basic stuff. But now if I got the extra miles and head to grangeville (60 miles) there is a Cummins dealer (John Deere Tractors) and another part store. Now there is a little town of Whitebird in between these two is basically a ghost town. No fuel, No grocery store, but does have 2 bars and a restruant. Beyond that you have to travel to Lewisotn, ID (125 miles) to get to any large town to for like WalMart or simular. So what it comes down to is the fact if I want anything I must travel either 180 miles one way to Boise, ID or go to 120 miles north and head to Lewiston, ID. This is what I live in... (Yes... Over the far distance ridge is Oregon State and home is down in the valley below) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=688 Home... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=986

It is different for set of two calipers (front set or rear set) is $120 to $130 a pair with pads... Local part stores didn't carry rebuild kits for the brake calipers... I was informed it was a dealer only item... So maybe I should find out who you went through...

I'm sure the OP is going OMG! What did I just buy??? Well the cat is out of the bag and yes the Edge Comp does have problems but for the most part if you understand the issues and how to avoid them you'll get the most out of the product... So don't sweat it...

I wonder if you got the bug like mine does... Set you levels like 4x1 and 5x5 and test run on 5x5 you should have low power and very little smoke. Now switch 4x5 and run 5x5 and see if you power increases. I've found the adjacent level effect the next higher level. Like I found if you set all levels 1x5, 2x5, 3x5, 4x5, and 5x5 you get the most out of the 5x5.

Simple break down... MAIN LEVEL 1. 40 HP2. 60 HP3. 80 HP4. 100 HP5. 120 HP SUBLEVEL 1. 33% of fuel till 20 PSI of boost2. 50% of fuel till 15 PSI of boost3. 67% of fuel till 10 PSI of boost4. Some extra fuel at 0 PSI of boost5. Full fuel at 0 boost. Now some notes... Main level determines how much maximum fuel and timing your going to get. So higher the level the more timing and fuel are given. Sublevel is actually 2 modes in one... Defuel and power modes. Sublevels 1-3 are defuel mode to aid in smoke controllability. Now remember the timing and fuel are greatly effect in these modes. These modes are typical used by people with very large injectors. Also the towing crowd is known to use these for EGT control. Sublevel 4-5 are power modes that delivers more power smoothly over the main level span. Now the timing is more enhanced from idle up to full power. If you looking for MPG's and can drive with a light foot. I highly suggest you set it for 5x5 and leave it go... With a light foot you controlling the fuel amount with your foot and the timing stays advanced longer.

Dealer only parts I found out... But the O-rings are cheap at like $1.20 a piece and pistons are $12 bucks... The best part is I rubuilt all four wheels and only spent $40 bucks...That a huge saving over buying 4 rebuilt calipers at $120 a piece with brake pads...

Basically take it apart clean every thing... If your using air to remove the piston make sure you put a 2x4 board in the jaw of the caliper ot protect the piston from damage. Also make sure to keep your fingers out of the way because the come out hard and fast. Be aware to protect your body from flying parts! Replace all the seal and boots... The check the pistons for fit. If the pistons will not drop into there bore to the bottom without being pushed then you need to tune the piston slightly. I use 600 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the pistons to fit the bores. Most of the time you find your sanding off old dried up brake fluid resdue. The re-assemble, bleed, and test drive...

Check this out guys...

Talk to one of the vendors I'm sure they could help out...

Ummm... I know its been done for street machines but it could be a serious problem if raw oil was drawn into the exhaust system. THe way I've seen it done on street rigs is drill a hole into the exhaust pipe and insert a pipe running paralell to the flow of the exhaust stream then a natural vacuum is created. But to protect the engine from pressurized exhaust they included a check valve to prevent exhaust pressure entering the crankcase. But the whole idea was given up on when they had to deal with oil entering the exhaust stream and the uncontrolable smoking. Now on Chevy 6.5L they routed the breather into the turbo. This becomes a huge mess for the same reason because when the blowby got bad it would blow oil into the turbo making a huge mess of the air system. Personally I'll let mine drip on the ground...

A set of RV275 are worth it...

The TQ Conv will stay with the trans as it comes out... Once on the ground and out from under the truck you can slide it off the input shaft and deal with it... Might dribble a bit...

There is a couple of place where you can grab it... Like right in front of you grab the upper lip and pull straight out firmly... Be careful and work around with it so you don't break it... On the manual trans there is a little hole on the right hand corner (By the cubby hole) I normally can get started with...

Wow... That's really odd... What comes to mind is a cam sensor vs. VP44 signals... Being that idle is figured by the ECM and also noticing you idle RPM's appears low on the stock gauge (700-750 RPM's). The rapid fall is strange too with the bounce. But just tossing ideas out again... Sticking injector? Something wrong with the VP44? Bad flash on the ECM? (Might try borrowing a Smarty). Tell your camera man to learn how to hold still... I'll think more about it...

Be aware that transfer case is heavy and to drain the fluid before you pull it off... Could get rather messy...

Ok... The trans jack will work but be aware the weight of the transfer case will tip the adapter back on you... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=979 I ended up using another bottle jack to suppot the Tranfer Case and had to perate both jacks evenly to get the angle right ot insert the input shaft into the clutch... Automatic much easier to do line up the TQ conv button and go for it...

Well the cross member is easy with a bottle jack and a cut 2x4... As for help... I did my trans removal and install by myself...

Like Taz here has a 92 dodge with a NV4500 tied to the flywheel... It appears to be a very easy swap if needed... But I've also heard the same thing ISX mention about over filling by a extra quart through the top... As for the oil slinger I've never heard of that but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to invest a little time to make it bullet proof!

I won the bet did I??? Pay up...

Sealed unit... sorry...

I was giving you crap about the swap... (But you took it ) Actually it would be better to just do a TC and VB and get good ones... Then it should hold up for quite a while...

Not exactly a good way to judge a lift pump... I've seen dead truck out here along the highway and the owner would bump the starter and here a buzzing noise. But no fuel ever came out... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=323 Funny part was i took apart the lift pump and found his plastic hub gone... It must of chewed it up and sent it down the line...