Mopar1973Man

LOL! I'm no better... I break out the CLR cleaner and spray down the shower stall, toilet, sink and kick the crap out of the funk ring in the toilet, strip the soap scum off the shower door and put a big ol' smile on Mom... Which she admits her arthritis is getting to her... Worse part there is 3 bathrooms here on the property.. (2 in the main house and 1 in the gust house/shop)

Simple... 1. Drain the tank the best you can and disconnect the filler tube and vent tube.2. Drop the carrier bearin on the driveshaft an tie towards the passenger side.3. Reach up and unscrew the sender ring.4. Now loosen the tank band and ease the tank tank and away from the frame allowing the sender to slide up and out of the tank. 5. Now that the tank is remove you can get to the fuel connections and unplug the wiring easy... I do things the easy way...

Join the club... 2nd cup and wound up tight now... But as for setting the voltage on a old sensor. Typical the sensor is sold complete assembled and calibrated so you don't need to adjust a new sensor. Also after playing with mine I thing people are confused about the voltage mark on the tag. This is the voltage where the On/Off idle switch trade out. So if your ABOVE this voltage then the APPS is OFF IDLE and if your below this voltage then your ON IDLE. So if you voltage is a bit low is fine. But if you voltage is above the printed tag then systems like high idle, exhaust brake, transmission shifting, etc don't work properly because the ECM/PCM always assume your pushing the throttle. I know I need to revise this way of thinking and post a update in my APPS write up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=970

Wow! A second good article in a row! I know its just the spec on oil but very handy to understand some of the specs...

Thanks you saved me a trip to the shop...

Drain the tank... And drop the tank... I've taken mine out replace the sender with a $70 one from the Dodge Dealer and re-installed the tank in under 1 hour... Really simple to do and you don't need a bunch of guys to hoist your bed off the truck.

The only thing I see wrong with doing that is that the sender is most likey no compatable with the the PCM. Also then you would have to install the matching gauge for that sender.

Give me a bit I'll get you a pic this morning sometime once I get down to my shop...

That is truely amazing that after that testing to find out Synthetic oil did not hold up as good as there touted. Even to find out some of the cheap stuff like Chevron Delo rated higher on the scale than most Synthetics... Truely amazing stuff. I always wonder about the Wally world stuff and funny to see it middle ground. But now knowing the Napa line is good and Chevron Delo is good stuff I know where I'm buying my oils now... Thank you for the information! Now this confirm what Dorkweed is doing now and still going... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1688-80-000-Miles......No-Full-Oil-Change Saving Money...

:lmao:Grateful dead??? But I sure love old country too...

That raises a question then... Does the testing with Blackstone capable of detecting if the oil has been cooked or not?

Well... There is some people claiming that you can put up to 40 PSI to a VP44 without damage. But like in another thread we all found out that the VP44 has a internal regulator too set at 15-16 PSI so going over 20 PSI is over kill basically in my mind. But as long as low side stays above 15 PSI you should be fine.

I've play with Red Hat Linux a few time I love the idea no need for virus protection and firewall... It just rock solid. But not really world compatible though... That what my old AMD 800 MHz lapto for... Non-internet functions. It does a awesome job as a stand alone machine as long as you never hook it to the internet...

I know there are some of you that dread the day hen the voltage regulator gives up the ghost because you know the PCM has to be replaced... Well I dug up the information and artwork for doing a old school regulator to replace the PCM function. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-reg/voltage-reg.htm

I did Rancho's RS5000 from my local Napa store and they are good shocks... Spendy But Good!

Glad to hear it worked out for ya...

I wish... 2002 they got a plastic screw on lid there now... I've got a old school big line kit...

Thank you edCasey... Your great write up has been added to the archives of the M73M.com site... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/trans/trans.htm Hopefully see many more great write ups from you!

That's the thing here... Are you looking at it from... 1. Normal driving aspect?2. Or from a racing aspect? Normal driving I don't see a need for it or even if the tunnel ram would do much for ya... But from a performance aspect of racing, quarter mile, dyno queen, etc... Yeah every little bit would help in getting the power out of it.

Ahh chit dude... That would hard to do with a 8K pound Dodge Cummins... Not to mention the damage to the doors!

No kidding... What do you guys do watch PBS channel or something???

Well you would have to either... 1. Call pureflow/FASS and get a upgraded spring for your AirDog/FASS... 2. Or switch to the old school mechanical pump.

* change the gear case (mounting difference of the VP44 to P) * pull the cam (change the cam for one with the fuel pump lobe) * change throttle assemblies (Mechanical linkage) * change the fuel pump (need more pressure) * change the pop pressure on the injectors The buy all the other parts like... * p7100 pump * injection lines Etc... Lots of money...

Still proves the point its easy to do...

That was quick...