Mopar1973Man

Air in the fuel? Bad O rings? My problem is just the shear age of the injectors since the previous owner admit to putting on over 400K miles on them...

Tell you the truth I seen where the bigger boxes like Edge Comp and Juice cranked up fully get more timing out there but its up to you to control the fuel flow with your foot. But if you use cruise a bit more and set for lower speeds you can see even more gains. The fact is the higher boost you run the less timing you'll see from ANY box. This will give you a clue... RPM increse to the right... MAP pressure increase from bottom up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=663

Thats a good one... Hmmm... Door seals, windshield glue leaking, windows seals, a-pillar seals (rubber plugs), etc... Just a few quick ideas of where to look. I've actually seen where windshields actually dripped right on the carpet below...

Strange... When I took mine out I don't remember seeing those at all... Unless you got the lift pump in the tank...

Right on... I wish... But Idaho snow would bury that poor thing... LMAO! 4-5 feet!

Ok I'm curious of your current fuel pressure? As for the 2 cycle oil comment... :lmao2:I've been to a injection shop in Lewiston, ID and the guys keep given me Stanadyne. I keep use 2 cycle oil and selling the Stanadyne to someone else. But My VP44 is over the 116K miles and still going. I've been using 2 cycle oil nearly 100K miles now! Yeap its been that long... But I'm still seeing 20-22 MPG roughly. So I know the 2 cycle oil isn't the cause of the problem... I also know 2 cycle oil CORRECTS injector problems. I've currently got a set of RV275 injectors that miss randomly at idle ONLY if I forget the 2 cycle oil. But The injectors have over 400K miles on them so if I pull a few more miles out them with 2 cycle oil good for me!

Here is the best pic I've got... You can see the o-ring on the connector tube which is really standard... There is a o-ring on the injectors then the copper seal and the tip of the injector...

Something is wrong... I would check ground wires... There is a master ground hidden behind the starter. You don't blow up 4 injection pumps in 17K miles... There is something causing it...

:poke:Aww Come on there is got to be pics of this somewhere...

Basically what I can tell you is that it shortens the throw of the shift thats all... The last time I saw a demo of this it shorten the shift about 1 to 1.5" worth of throw.

You got a CCD network error double check all you connectors and try omitting some of the extra like the stereo, etc... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

How old is the fluid? When was the last time you flushed the system out? (Dodge requires 30K miles)

There is a THANKS button in the lower left corner...

Look good... The diamond plate gives it class!

Check this out gang! http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80602

Ok you could do a big line kit and a Holley 150... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1312-Holley-HP150-Installation-PICS?highlight=holley

I assume the front crank seal? Eeeewwwww! Hmmm... The only thing I can think off is to use a mild solvent like Xylene/Mineral Spirits to remove the oil. Test in a small area first. Then wash the truck well and then wax the areas that get oily good. This should help in removal of the oil and grime later.

Nope... I wish though...

If it was me I would just get a seal kit and rebuild it yourself... There is 2 seals in that spot a outter dust seal and a inner hydraulic seal. As for pulling the box out is rather easy. But first thing center the steering and tie the steering wheel in place. (This will protect the clock spring from damage). The pull the steer shaft loose from the box. (Input and output). disconnect the power steering fluid lines, then unbolt the gear box and remove... The sad part is that this most likely wouldn't of happen if you where changing you power steering fluid every 30K miles...

Here is what is all about... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

Yes... The increased line size does improve fuel volume and keep pressure higher... But also the stock fuel system isn't strong enough... The stock lift pump is like 25-30 GPH...(UGH!) I suggest a minimum of a 95-100 GPH pump.

Geez... I'm really on a learning curve with doing front end work! I'd just got done doing the upper ball joints, tie-rods ends and center link on Taz's 92 Dodge Cummins. Its a 2WD truck and man I can't hit the right toe angle because I think the lower ball joint are sloopy. When I do get the toe angle set for parallel (near ZERO) the tires rub the front end rods. So I added toe to the front end and it driveable but its not right yet... So Taz and myself are thinking its got to be the lower ball joints allowing the bottom of the tire to slip inward (top of the tire leans outwards).

Then I'm going to assume the spring assembly fits in the square depression in the corner of the 1st pic. Then the white button is the switch right? The assembly reminds me of a ball point pen you click up and down. Find a ball point pen that is see through like Pilot G2 and youll see what I mean... I know this isn't answering you problem but it might give a clue to the assembly process...

Comments in blue...

I like that I dea... At least your purging the rest of the system out and clearing the rest of the system of old fluid and getting a fresh start. (Good idea!)