Mopar1973Man

Think that bad just doing a KDP tab??? Just wait till you have to do a gearcase and including pulling the cam out for that...

As for the clutch there is no adjustment. as for the stiffness feeling I would say it time to pull the transmission down and take a peek there could be several issues like a bad pressure plate, throwout bearing problems, etc. Now is the BRAKE light flashing or solid? Solid is a porportioning valve issue.Flashing is a E brake pedal problem.

Man I got to say I got to give you props for this much! Wow!

The only thing I can toss out there is the VP44 error code list and diagnostics... It might give you a clue... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm Then here is the wiring of the VP44...

Ice maker??? Actually that is a VDO oil pressure gauge line...

Here is some real redneck music...:lmao2:At least its diesel... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsrxYKm1htY

Another wild video...

Here is what it looks like...

Dorkweed let me just hide been the sofa for while... Ugh 80's...:lmao2:I've got a hard drive full of that stuff and rarely listen to it much anymore...

Mine barely hits the 35 PSI pin... I could turn up the wastegate more but why? Ther HX35 is only rated for 35 PSI anyways...

I've been watching the thread but I've got little to offer... But I would love to see the write up...

Here is what I'm using... Then my old stock install... (Bottom of the filter housing) Study up on water hammering... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer This is what happens everytime the VP44 is fired is a water hammer. The valve opensd rapidly drawing in fuel for pumping (VP44) then rapidily closes off...

I've been looking for that...

If you got priming issues double check the quick connector on the sotck fuel sender its really common to suck air in here and never be wet. Alot of people omit the fitting and hose clamp diectly to the plastic nipple on the fuel sender.

Make sure the needle valve is barely cracked open. Seat it closed and barely nudge it open the needle should rise up slowly...(1-2 sec to get to 15 PSI) If its rises fast nudge the valve closed more.

Your just learning how to make it not a issue now... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY

Bellhousing goes on first...(install all the throw out fork and all). Then the trans mounts to it...

Oh.... That what called a PCM (Powertrain Control module) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/pcm/pcm.htm

Been there done that... Thankfully not on my truck...

1500*F is more than enough... Aluminum pistons melt at ~1,280*F without cooling... But most of use have pulled a few 1,400 to 1,500*F runs but short lived... Remember the stock turbo is only good for 35 PSI... Head gasket is only good to about 40-45 PSI...

TCU? As for the error code here is a few thing to check... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-codes.htm (Goto P0122 error code and test...)

Found this line over on DodgeRam.Org

I'm sure if I dug on CF.com for a couple of hours I might find the thread from way back when the VP44 problems started someone had a document of this but back then I never bother to keep (early years of my learning curve). But I'm sure its out there but finding it now would be tough. This way way back when the dealer was arguing volume / pressure standard and the TSB came out... (2001 or so...) Ok let say for disclaimer reason its SUGGESTED...

That look much easier to handle the vacuum pump and power steering pump in single package than trying to remove the power steering pump in the truck...

OK Gang... I discovered something today... For all of you that have mechanical fuel pressure gauges that are direct plumbed can have even more safety now. I found that you can get 1/8" air brake line at NAPA for cheap. The nice part is that the air brake line is rated well above 150 PSI (which I hardly doubt a 15-20 PSI lift pump will blow) and it extremely flexable. So if you kink the line it doesn't break off like oil pressure gauge tubing. This is Polyon Air Brake line. My problem was where my old school big line kit has the tap in the line for gauge is in between the filter and VP44 so every time I would work on my truck I would flex line so much I break it off. Now I got to head to town get a ferule and replace it again. Well that is gone and over... I bought 10 feet and 4 ferules for $6.00 buck even. Cheap fix and no longer got to worry about that line now... Even sitting here right now I'm flexing that piece of scrap line and I can fold it over in half and straighten it out over and over and it just snaps back. No holes or breaks yet...