Mopar1973Man

So you got our storm coimng now... Well on the other side of it should be good weather for awhile. Kind of sucks to get stuck in the house for rain shower and can't do anything then the weather clears up and now Mopar Mom and myself get sick with a Spring Head Cold. I'm getting cabin fever so bad I ready to bust out of this place hop on a ATV and head for the hills for a couple days. At least for me I have my periods of feeling strong in the morning and get the chores done and get a little personal work done too. I managed to complete my ATV trailer / Wood hauler. I going to have to get my camera out today and get a pic of that. Then I managed to install a Timbo APPS so I could do a write up of the Timbo APPS (Still need to do the write up). Then for some weird reason this spring I took interest in my old 1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome (360 CID 2 BBL 727 Trans) sitting in the shed. The interior needs some good house cleaning but the old beast still in good shape just need fluids topped off and the batteries replaced. Oh yeah Taz's called me that he's getting itchy to find a exhaust brake and get ready for wood hauling. Like the daytime highs are around 50-55*F and would be sweet for working in the woods.

Well glad you got it put together and my inofrmation helpd out for ya... As for the suggestion by Guesswho he's right you want to try and keep everything clean as possible.

Painted black? High quality VP44's are normally UNPAINTED aluminum. Black painted pumps are from Czechoslovakia and are usually of low grade and life span. Hmmm... As for the poly mount most all trucks came with moly vibration block to tie the high pressure lines to together. Here is what mine look like factory injection lines. (Donig a RV275 injector install) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=711 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=710

If any of the follow have occured then reset the APPS. 1. APPS has been changed or disconnected.2. ECM has been changed or disconnected.3. Batteries has been changed or disconnected.

The only reason I got the link going is because I watch my DSL stats closely and notice the error gotten bad and the max speed of 3.0 MBits was increased to 7.5 Mbits and I can't seen to reach it at all. (Just reminded me to call the phone company ) But I'll have to try out you test too.

Not me... As for bearing those should be standard tapper roller bearing with a tappered race. You should be able to drive the races out with a piece of soft metal rod. Should be simular to this... (2 1/2 Ton millitary fire truck with drum brakes - this was the only bearing pic I could find fast) :banghead: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=709 Should be able to do this with basic tools. When I did this with the fire dept I was using a old chunk of re-bar...

Well Gang... Timbo gave me a Timbo APPS sensor to install on my truck and try out. So I'll tell this much its built much better than the factory $400 dollar APPS is! I will say it exhaust brake and high idle ready. This APPS sensor has no effect on these options and will continue to work as usual. What I love about the Timbo APPS sensor is the fact there is no longer a need to hit a particular voltage for the APPS to function correctly or probing the PCM or ECM sockets.. And for you Timbo you need some serious Props for coming up with a simple fix for our trucks! My hats off to you sir! But Here is my quick version write up of how to install a Timbo APPS sensor. 1. First you must remove the plastic cover over the bell-crank assembly. There is 2 plastic screws inside a expanding plug. You must remove the plastic screw without pushing against them. Kind of tricky but it can be done. 2. Then grab a 10mm socket and remove all 6 bolts holding the black plate to the mounting on the block.... 3. Unplug the old APPS sensor. 4. Remove the 2 Torx screws holding the old APPS sensor. This part I kind fudge over Timbo idea and made it simple. I grab a pair of pilers grab the head of the screw and broke them loose then used a T20 bit to finish removing. This way there is no worry about stripping the heads out. Notice the screw heads have tool marks... 5. Replace the APPS sensor with Timbo APPS sensor in the same position and line up the slot with the bell-crank tab. Use the supplied screw. Just before you finish tighten the screw turn the sensor fully clockwise to remove extra twisting slack. 6.Plug in the wiring and re-assemble the APPS sensor plate again with the 6 bolts. 7. Now adjust for slack. Use the supplied paper clip and insert it in the green port on the plug. Turn your key ON and look at the voltage. Now using the screw on the bell crank stop (one towards the front) adjust till the voltage rises the back off till you hit your original mark plus 1/2 turn. Since mine was .633 I turn till it rose and the backed off to .633 and then another 1/2 turn. Your all set! 8. Disconnect your batteries and do a APPS sensor reset. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm Actual article with pictures here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/39-timbos-apps-installing

Actually the spring isn't to bad for strength (after opening Taz's VE pump of Gov Spring 366). The problem is that as you adjust the fuel screw inward your idle speed rises. Then if over adjusted then theengine goes into full runaway mode. (which I'm glad to say never happen yet). So in reverse repect if the screw was to back out then the idle falls. so what do you do while turning up the screw and the idle screw now is gone and you can reduce the idle anymore??? Simple you re-index the arm of the throttle. But the point I'm making is that with a auot pin like your figuring it going to change a bunch of stuff like idle speed and such. so I hate to say it but the idea is kind of short.

Yeap... That Morgan Lake... what actually occured is that I past my turn in the trail and went up the mountain too far to nearly another lake. Give you a clue... Go to Google Maps and type in Pinehurst, ID and then look due east from the highway. Keeping to spring thread... This is my goal to get back up in here and fish the back country lakes...

Like ISX said it a smart idea to add in all the extra and plan ahead...

Surprised you don't have freeze up problem with moisture coming out of the crankcase...

Here is one of the spot I want to get into to start fishing... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=688 There isn't a road for 20 miles... You either got to walk in, ride a horse or ride a ATV in...

That's the whole idea... this wil be my first year that my summer isn't filled with chasing forest fires and working 12-16 hours a shot. this summer I plan on going it the back country to fish and camp out using my ATV. Like this lake I visited last summer for a day trip.

It sucks to be you... I've gotten my trailer out repaired a few thing on it, added a new trailer jack, changed the tires, add a spare tire, and even made a hanger for it. Mixed up a batch of old engine oil and diesel fuel and mop the deck. (redneck weather treatment). Snow line is up at about 5,000 feet for me... But my house is at 2,800 feet... I might have to grab a camera and run up the hill behind the house and get a few pics... Gorgeous out yesterday... (65*F and clear light wind 5 MPH) http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?site=boi&textField1=45.24133&textField2=-116.33183 Even better yet the Robins are in the yard sucking up worms... Taz called yesterday after working on the ranch to tell me the snow is melting at 5,000 feet and be ready to start cutting firewood in about 2-3 weeks! (If the warm weather continues!) That is early but it will be nice to get the firewood haul done before it gets hot!

Here is a master list of speed test servers world wide. http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest?more=1 Then here is the common Adobe Flash styled test... http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest?flash=1 Then Java... http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest?java=1

Return line should be a solid from the Tee to the return banjo with the overflow valve. If the return line is leaking you can cut out the back segiment and use a piece of diesel rated fuel hose and clamp it together. Or you could order a new line from Cummins...

I would pull the Edge and gett either a Juice or a Comp at least then all is new and installed into the cab...

In my case its off road operation that causes it... I got tried of washing the radiator and carrying a extra 3 gallons of oil everytime I went out hauling firewood.

I need to add a gauge to mine... I also need to make a video of the Oil pressure gauge vs. ECT fooler switch...

Thanks Ed... I knew someone here would know the answer to his issues!

I'm surprised to see a few people saying they are NOT going to do the mod...

Anyone else seen this style of axle before? It doesn't appear like mine... (Guessin')

Stock breather bottle or hose location... 98.5 to 2002 came both way with and without the bottle.

Yeap the blow by hose is located in the back of the tappet valley on all 12V trucks. Dodge created a TSB fix that was covered under warranty but now cost about $350 to $400 bucks for the revised tappet cover to be installed. When I did Taz's 12V tappet cover it looked to be the same size and seem that if you picked up a 12V tappet cover it should fit... (Guessin') But since all that requires complete removal of all the stuff on the driver side of the engine. VP44, ECM, fuel filter, power steering pump, etc... It would be easier to just make the pipe MOD...

No... Only thr oil vapor and crankcase blowby gasses travel the pipe. This corrects both TSBs for oils... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/tsb-09-002-02.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/tsb-09-02-00.htm Unpaint vent. Exit point... The Kit...