Mopar1973Man

The only way for sure is to pull the cover and look... I've seen a few 2001 truck with KDP problems and seen 1 2002 with a dealer receipt for KDP repair...

That odd... 5 PSI drop... I'm also runinng a 150 and seeing 17 @ idle and 15 @ WOT... Why such a huge drop? :shrug:I'm also pumping through the stock filter housing with a filter present... I'm most likely got more fueling mods...

Well how about that I got it right... :lol:Funny part was I was guessin' at it...

Subscribed... Hmmm... Better lighting...

Yes... That is the short box bracket... Or you can get the long box flat mount that looks like typical FASS mount against the frame...

A little bit explaination... Bosch's requirements is 70% fuel is to be return to the tank and only 30% burned. Ok... So how much fuel do we burn in the worse conditions? I've seen several times where my Scangauge is displaying high flow ration in the 20-25 GPH bracket with WOT operation. But typically cruising its between 2-10 GPH depending on load and grade. So now stock fuel system is approximately 25 GPH... Oh Wow! Stock system has no return with full load... No wonder the VP44 fail 100% is burned and nothing for cooling and lubing. Now step up to a AD 100 and your only burning 25% of the fuel and the other 75% is being returning for cooling and lubing purpose if you line pressure is above 14 PSI at WOT. (Which most AD system can do without thinking!). Mine with a AD150 is 17 @ idle and !5 @ WOT with Edge Comp on 5x5 and RV275 injectors. (really mild) Then the filter system there is a 140 micron pre-filter protecting the pump (which the stock pump just pump the trash along if there was metal in the fuel it would be pull into the motor magnets of the pump and chew itsself up being the pump was lubed by fuel. Then the output filter is a 2 micron compared to the 10 micron filter so now your VP44 is protected even better from debris and contaminates. Last but not least there is a lifetime warranty on AirDog, Raptor, and FASS so if the pump fails just have it replaced. (Remember to turn in your registration card! - Void warranty if you don't!)

IOD fuse controls that I think...

It got my vote for the tip section... Very well done with the pictures and write up! Give me some time and I should have it up soon!

Nice write up... But there is a problem with both setups... Neither one is setup in a protected manner for offroad usage. I got tons of little dents and bings in the bottom of the rocker panels from all the sticks and limbs I ran over. The AirDog if you flat mount to the frame you'll find that the road debris even road gravel will beat the bottom of the filters till they could possibly leak. That why I kept the short bed bracket and mounted behind the transfer case. This way the skid plate protects the filters from damage. Now if your just a city street driver that fine... But offroad use is not exceptable for those mountings. Yes I backed into that location of the first pic...

Well it more like the Cummins engine was built by cummins. But when Dodge sold trucks in Florida I'm sure Dodge did bother with block heater cords even though Cummins stuck block heater elements in the engine. Who would need a block heater in Texas, Florida, Etc. ??? But all northern turck had cords. But in some travels these trucks traded places. So a guy living in the south goes to Alaska just has to add a cord but the guy the went from Alaska to florida most likely tie the road up or yank it out... Just weird... But be thankful Cummins stuck a heater in all blocks because these heater are not cheap! $120-$140 buck for just the heater without a cord!

I got you covered... I got a ratio calculator... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/ratio/ratio.htm Now you can tune a tweak your mixtures... But typically if you pump 14 gallon you add 14 ozs. Then if you fill up and pump 28 gallons then 28 ozs of oil is used. But the first add do with a full tank will be a quart. After that use the 1 gallon to 1 oz ratio for 128:1 ratio.

Link! I need a link!

Here is a killer write up of adding a extra filter to the system... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fuel-filter/addon-filter.htm

My gauge pops 13-15 PSI and falls... With just a key on no start... Cranks at about 11-12 PSI and runs at 17 @ idle and 15 @ WOT... As long as while the engine is running the pressure never falls below 10 PSI you should be fine...

With either 150 series pump you have to pull the fuel tank... With either 100 series pump you can use the stock sender... But Size is the big issue! Can't mount a FASS here...

Actually with the Emission junk on you can't run the 2 cycle oil because of the DPF and EGR problems... But if you mod it later in life and yank that stuff out I know of a small handful of guy using 2 cycle in 6.7L that are moded... But the biggest problem is the filter... You need to add a 2 micron filter... The electronic injector are a weird duck but the fact is there is a very small BB that seats in the head of the to control the injector firing well the debris will hone the seat out where the BB seats and then it bleeds pressure causing the injector to bleed constantly... Hence hard starting and whit smoke issues.

As for 2 cycle oil I've been using it now for 4 year continueously without no harm to the injectors. As a matter of fact the injectors I got from CajFlynn just got a double shot of 2 cycle oil and finally fixed the miss problem... It was unbelieveable but it worked no more miss... As for the VP44 is still going strong without problem or issues... But I will admit exceeding 100:1 ratio (lower number) will change the smoke color more grey. 128:1 is a good starting place...

Glow shift are good gauge from what I've been told but you must protect the fuel pressure sensor with a snubber or needle valve...

now that is a good question for the vendors of the site for a price... As for how to do it... Well the first person to mind is Wild & free could tell ya...

That was true for the older 24V trucks like what I own... As for what the 6.7L trucks have I'm not sure... But the cords can be had a local NAPA store for much less...

Yeap that Auto is your weak link for getting the most out of your truck. If you did a Valve Body and TQ Conv at least it would hold the extra juice from a Chip and/or injectors. If your upgraded on the trans I would suggest trying a "Mystery Switch" for MPG's because then the Trans operates like a manual trans.

Myself I installed a industrial injection in a customers rig last summer and no issues as of yet... Might check with the vendors...

Go with stock VP44... Stock VP44's except the electronics better than the HR VP44...

Like here is a older PDF doc of my MPGs. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/pdf/2002-dodge-fuel-records.pdf (Go to page 13 for the graph) I know I need to update this... Now take notice everything from start to 50K miles is completely stock, 50K to 90K is stock fuel, BHAF and Straight pipe, 90K Edge Comp was installed. By 120K I bought my ScanGauge II as a guide and BOOM! The numbers took off. But I've been hovering in the 20-21 bracket now empty. I do most of my trailer towing work in the summer. What worse about mine is I start from 2,800 ft and drive down to Lucile Idaho. Then turn up a single lane dirt road wind 6 miles to the saddle at 7-8% grade. Then head up the hill to about 7,800 ft to cut firewood. Then haul it back down. Even then going back though my notebook and Excel sheet the lowest is 14.30 MPG ever. Now as for Chip I found that a performance chip that ties t othe VP44 does the best for MPG because of the sole fact it can adjust timing farther than factory ECM limitations. Like it the morning getting rolling with a cold engine it rattles to beat all this is the advancement of timing. But if you just turn off the Edge Comp its gone. Or even un plug the wire tap it gone... The other thing I found is the rattle is completely gone after 7-10 PSI (timing canceled) So Edge EZ is not going to do more than ECM rate. Now as for setting I leave it on 5x5 (max'ed) and control the fuel with my foot just like the old days of 4 bbl carbs. I keep my boost low if possible (more boost means more fuel and less timing). Another thing that helped a bunch is the RV275 injectors. I gain about 1-2 MPG from those because of the change in spray pattern.

I'm running AD 150 with no issues at temps as high as 120*F outside... Maybe the extra shot of 2 cycle oil is helping who knows...