Mopar1973Man

One write up made it to the static pages...http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/amsoil-bypass/amsoil-bypass.htm

Maybe we should bug them about that and request for Cummins XGauges to be produced...

That's true... Yes... It will pull fuel by itsself but it not suggested because of the lack of pressure to keep it lubed and cooled properly...

But I would assume the reason for it is that if you turn off the key the lift pump is shut down and there is ZERO fuel pressure to take care of the VP44 that is still spining...

You might check the RATE setting... You might turn it down to SLOW so it has time to catch up with the data on the CCD Bus... MENU>MORE>MORE>RATE Set it for SLOW for the Dodge and see if that helps...

Typical grid heater load... The grid heater suck out 190 Amps worth of power and the alternator is only 120 Amps typically so it tends to dim and discharge the system... I'm like Flman just about a 1 PSI drop...

I pulled my previous post because I felt bad but you made a quote before I got rid of it... :banghead: As for the grumps and the big sites they tend to run with Chip's 5 PSI comment and take it as gospel. I got admit I've used several tidbits of Chip information too. Like the diagnostic information is dead nuts for telling if a VP44 is heading south. Like myself I stopped in a local rebuilder shop in Lewiston Idaho (happens to be a advertiser) and he's also saying that typical fuel pressure should be about 10-15 PSI. When I mention a AieDog 150 you get the "oh nevermind" comment... Which makes me feel good... I think it comes down to the fact of Cooling/Fuel pressure, soldering issues, fuel lubricity, and good filtering. Yea Chip did find a bunch of this stuff out and made life but for all of us. I tend to prefer the slightly highier number like 15 as a minimum to hopefully keep the VP44 overflow valve open more. The for filter I tend to prefer the 2-3 micron fleetguard filters. As for lubricity well that without saying... (2 Cycle Oil) As for that I see a slight drop but only 0.5 PSI. So if I'm idling at 17 PSI coasting at any speed I see 16.5 PSI... As for consumption there shouldn't be any into the cylinders (injected) because there there would be acceleration. Now the fuzzy part... If there is only 2 exit points 1 being the injectors and 2 is a overflow valve... So either the VP44 is pushing fuel out the overflow valve or bleeding past the injectors into the return rail...

Don't get me wrong either... I'm not asking Chip to change either... But the mass tend to take the 5 PSI comment to far... Like over on your other post even he comment on the 10-15 is a normal pressure... This makes me feel better... (Sorry to ruffle feather...) As for my fuel pressure mine is hanging at 17 @ idle still and 15 @ WOT... Today temp was 49-50*F outside...

Your going to have to run the calibrate again... Make sure you fill it up the same way both times at the same station at the same pump. Also is your speed showing true to a GPS? Like my truck the stock speedometer is off by exactly 0.5 MPH so the odometer is typically off by 15 miles by the end of a tank. Double check you distance travel against a GPS to make sure its showing correctly. The fillup calibration and the speed calibration ar important to get good accurate numbers... Mile Per Gallon Calucation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) = Miles Per Gallon Gallons Per Hour Calculation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Miles Per Gallon = Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) Speed Calculation Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) x Miles Per Gallon = Speed (Miles Per Hour) Now we will use the examples above to calculate MPG form fuel flow and speed. 65 MPH / 4.39 GPH = 14.80 MPG

sorry but that...:banghead: But now its fixed...

Very controversial video clips... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI1wj0a99PI

Corrosion??? I know the Edge EZ is under the hood... Maybe you might see if it will make it into the cab...

LOL! OMG! That tiny hole... (Magnified x12) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=548&d=1265209366 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=547&d=1265209337 Now give you an idea how small that hole is he's talking about you can take a single straind of copper wire from a 16 AWG cable and it will barely pass. 14 AWG straind won't... Now figure out at 5 PSI how much fuel flows though that tiny hole. NOT MUCH! So how could this even be considered a good cooling flow? That bleed hole was design for priming the system and passing air. Air will pass through a small hole easy where fuel will slow down considerably. Now looking at the overflow hole at 14+ PSI now you pumping fuel and cooling... But that tiny hole... Sorry I'm going to hold to Dodge/Cummins/Bosch standards personally... Being that I lost my first pump at 8 PSI of fuel pressure. Then on top of that if you preform the volume testing of the lift pump according to the TSB if the lift pump volume test fails at 8 PSI... (Dodge/Cummins TSB) http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/14-002-03.htm As for my testing of 8 Psi I did it 10 times and all 10 times I came up short in the volume requirement at 8 PSI... (Pic attached) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549&d=1265210510 As for dyno test and quarter mile testing of pumps... That short life testing... Still there is nothing from any re-build shop that can prove 100K, 200K or even 500K with 5 PSI of pressure... Remember we are common folk that drive long distances not race a quarter mile and load up on a trailer and go home. Like myself is 70-100 miles just to go grocery shopping... Or 100 miles for a load of firewood climbing a 7-10% for 15 miles... I need a pump to last a long time... I can careless about max HP/TQ at what fuel pressure... I've got difference requirements...

The adjustment part is opening up the injector and changing the shim trhis will change the pop pressure.

Here is my write up of my install and doing my SBC... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/sbc/sbc.htm

Just make new threads and send me a PM of the post link. Then I convert it to HTML and add it to the site as a permanent page... I'd be glad to post up your works. Might have t ocreate a few stickies and get the 3rd Gen area boosted up... Didn't mean to hijack the thread carry on crew!

I could I use that write up over here as a static page? That really good write up and how to flush the system... Matter of fact its the same as how I do mine...

OMG...

What kind of fuel pressure do you have?

53 block issues is rather hit and miss like the 5th gear nut problem... If you treat the truck right and let it warm up before putting it to serious work and take care of the coolant when needed... Most don't even see a problem with the 53 blocks cracking. I've even seen few of them used in racing applications and still holding up just fine... But since you don't have a 53 block no worries... Just enjoy the long life of your truck...

Surprising to see how many kept the stock stereo. The dimmer lead orange should be affecting it be I guess it does in your just for some odd reason. But I would double check you connection and be sure you not shorting into other leads or gorund by chance. double check you wire color too... I seen a few time where the tracer color was hidden out of sight... You might eve nsee if you can hit that joint connector 5 and tap it there... As for the tires no problem... Just tossing 2 cents...

I've been running one of the older white faced DiPricols now for over 6 years and love it... Looks very much so like the stock gauges in the night.

That caught me off guard... I'm think Fleetguard filters... not Fleggard... THen getting the show to boot... I'm like what kind of ad is this???

No problem here so it drops from 17.5 to 16.5 PSI when the grid heater hit... The noly time the electronic is a issues is if the voltage falls below 8 Volts... I'm still in the 11-12 Volt range on my weakest voltage. My batteries are even stock orignals that are 8 years old now... No problem here now because of the anti-gel package in the fuel I tend to keep using the 2 cycle oil...

I'm also hooked up to the orange wire myself. But I don't have the highline system...(No alram in my truck...) But I'm tapped in at the stereo since the adapter hookes the aftermarket stereo to the dodge connector has the dimmer lead... It open so I used it...