Mopar1973Man

Ok... Little more insite on this... If the P0500 is by itself it nothing to worry about most likely wheel spin... But if the P0500 is with a ABS/BRAKE light I would start looking are ABS wheel sensors... If the speedometer is working properly then I would replace the front sensors... If the speedometer is NOT working properly then the rear speed sensor has failed...

I got one all the time... (Seriously!) Dirt roads get me all the time... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm (Bottom of the page) P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel antilock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

Just so everyone knows what a VP44 puller looks like... (I know you asked about in a PM) Even works on 12V trucks too... Later on I'll go get my homemade puller out... (Redneck engineneering)

Any updates to the project???

I guess I going to have to alter the forum heading... But yes all gasser info here...

Like this... I pulled the loop down while bleeding...

There is air in the system yet... The bad part is there is a loop above the resevoir and the air bubbles float into that loop and don't come out easy... Thats why it got to be done removed from the vehicle...

Don't try to disconnect the battery ot clear it won't work... Seriously if there is still a issues then the light will remain on. But if you corrected it will got out in just a few hundred feet of travel... Remember all the sensor must match speed for it to be happy. So if 1 sensor is lower or higher than the others then the ABS/BRAKE light is tripped.

What to do you mean by loose?

The only thing I could figure is using a soy based (or non-toxic) lubricant which doesn't require MSDS entry... That the only thing I could figure...

It true that ATF+4 is better fluid over the older +3 version. If you look around the +3 is still available in most stores. Matter of fact I've got 10 gallons of ATF+3 sitting in the garage in 5 gallon buckets... (Transfer case on my truck and A/T on mom's truck)

If your looking for web site support for modifications or design change please post here in this forum...

Well right off the top the two that caught my eye is the Naptha and the Xylene which are both use for aromatics and cleaning solvents. Then the other problem is that the product is a cetane booster (or BTU reducer). You must remember anytime you increase cetane yo REDUCE BTU content of the fuel. Just like in winter here in Idaho diesel is about 50-55 Cetane and the BTU are dropped to about 126K BTU's (Just remember gasoline ias 125K BTU's). Then come summer when summer fuels are back the cetane number falls to about 43 here and the BTU content rises to about 134K BTU's... Now back to the Xylene is got a BTU content of a mere 18K BTU's and Naptha is right there at 22K BTU's. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/cetane/cetane.htm so remember anything that claims cetane improvement with reduce the BTU content. But since Naptha and XyLene ignite really easy and early they tend to increase the knock of the engine (exploding with a punch) Where something with lower cetane value will burn long and push (quiet engine). So yes most will claim that cetane boost feel like more power but actually sacrificing MPG for power because it will require more fuel to create the same amount ofr BTU work.

Sound happy now... Funny how good fuel volume/pressure will change the attitude of a truck and owner...

100 miles to reset??? Thats odd... Mine rest in the first 100 feet...

According to Dorkweed it worth it... I think there is a thread about his install...

The only way to verify the sensor is functional is go to a Dealer that has the proper DRB III test equipment... OBD II won't tell you...

As for myself I've been using the Mopar Brand trans fluid but this go around I might look towards another brand that might work in place of... $23 to $27 a quart for Mopar's Trans Fluid and you need a 1 gallon (4 quarts) it sure does hurt...

No torque sequence seen in the book but the torque value is 13 Ft/Lbs for the pan... Then 35 In/Lbs for the filter screws. Hope that helps...

Check for power and data problems...

If you go out to the quarter mile tracks you'll find most Cummins trucks launching off the line in 4WD. The transfer case can typically handle the abuse. Like myself I do a lot of tree skidding and dragging in the summer time in 4WD. But as for drive axles , u-joints, drive shafts, Double Cardan Joints it beats the hell out them... Running 4WD in dry pavement... I've already broke 1 cardan joint, 1 driveshaft, and wore out a set of drive axle u-joint in under 30K miles when I bought my truck and then figure out the the limitations of the 4WD system. If your pulling straight and never turn your fine the stress is reduced. But if your pulling on dry ground and turning sharp... Oh Look Out! Your asking to break something... Even like climbing a mountain road with 4WD and its muddy. I got to go back to 2WD to prevent binding of the driveline on sharp switch backs because there isn't enough wheel slip... Why is the problem so noticable on a Cummins??? Think about is normal gasoline engines are what 500-600 pounds now the Cummins is 1,100 pounds DRY! Now add coolant, oil, etc... so on the scales I'm weighed out at... 7,300# = 4,400# front axle + 2,860# Rear Axle... Hmmm don't you think there is quite a bit of weight pinning those front tires down from slipping??? Now throw in 265/75 R16 or larger tires with agressive tread... This makes it even worse on the driveline... It is one of the few reasons I went back to 235/85R16 tire to allow more slipage of the front axle to allow for stress relief...

Check the fuel pump relay in the PDC if it fails it will trip a P1689... Here is a daignostic write up for VP44 error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm

Copper tubing is known for failure because of all the vibration they been know to break under the hood... As for my old line it last 6 years without much problems (unless I broke it off pushing on it) but the new stuff I'm using polyon air brake line is nearly instructable now... I've got a chunk on my desk I've been playing with folding and bending and it just doesn't fail... Remember the phrase... "Dodge makes it Cummins Shakes it!"

I don't think so... 225K miles is LOW miles really... you might want to talk to CajFlynn (closing in on 800K miles 2001) and then talk to Taz (630K miles on a 1992)... As for the sound of the engine most of them have quite a bit of clatter which is normal for most engines... As for the -.002 on the valves I know a few that done this and its still with spec so I'm rather sure there is no ill effects of being slightly tight.

Geez...