Mopar1973Man

Raptor 100/150 is just a pump... AirDog 100/150/165 is pump, pre filter, water separator, 2 micron filter, and air seperation...

It is adjustable about the spring is internal and you need to pull the reurn fitting to access it. Pressure supply heads to the inlet of the stock filter. return head to the filler neck hose on the fuel tank. And suction is from my draw straw or (stock sender AD 100). Yes there is a filter in the stock canister too... You'll find you only need to change that about every 50-60K miles. But as for fuel warming and WIF light its nice... It cold winters it does help to getting the fuel warmed up a biut and remember the VP44 does monitor fuel temps and adjust flow and timing rates from this information. AirDog 100 - Uses stock pickup in tank (100 GPH) AirDog 150 - Uses a drawstraw add-on (150 GPH) AirDog II - Suppose to use the stock pickup in the tank but not sure... (165 GPH)

Sorry to say that in cab fuse panel is a real PITA to even see from the inside let alone even reach it. If you looking for places to tap for lighting then you might consider the ash tray, radio illumination, etc. (Orange wire)

What the temp like down there? If the temp is above 32*F then there is no need for grid heaters... I don't even wait for the light on mine if the temp is above 32*F and normally pull my grid heater power leadf in the spring. i started as low as 25*F with grid heaters... Yes it will run rough for a second or two and smoke but clears up in a few seconds... Any error codes? How long till it straighten out? As for the injectors just take them to a shop and have them pop tested... The shop I went to the guys were great and took me to the back room and show me how they pop test them and what they look for.

Basically you need a box that taps the VP44 and give considerable timing. some say Smarty is good for the 3rd Gens and for the 2nd Gen I'm in favor of the Edge Products. Like myself I'm running a Edge Comp on 5x5 and typically set my cruise at 55-60 MPH.

In honor of the 44th President of the United States , Baskin-Robbins Ice Cream has introduced a new flavor: " Barocky Road ." Barocky Road is a blend of half vanilla, half chocolate, and surrounded by nuts and flakes. The vanilla portion of the mix is not openly advertised and usually denied as an ingredient. The nuts and flakes are all very bitter and hard to swallow. The cost is $100.00 per scoop. When purchased it will be presented to you in a large beautiful cone, but after you pay for it, the ice cream is taken away and given to the person in line behind you at no charge. You are left with an empty wallet and no change, holding an empty cone with no hope of getting any ice cream. Are you stimulated?

Now with the posting of the Holley pump its looking like the Raptor is getting a run for the money... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1312-Holley-HP150-Installation-PICS?highlight=holley Holley 150 Old holley blue...

The problem you'll find out is the trans adapter for you jack can balance the trans and the transfer case it will instantly lean back on you... I used my little bottle jack under the transfer case and balanced against the main arm of the floor jack... But I got it in... But as for the trans/tranfer I left it tied to the jack and just rolled it back to the rear axle so I could install the clutch... Lifting that combo is just to much by a single man...

My comments in blue... Really good to 23 MPG isn't it... Now catch my high mark at 25.3 MPG... Typically on the open highway I'm pulling 21-22... Around here at home it can vary widely from 18-22 MPG depending on which road I have to travel up.

Shoot this has been the easiest winter for me... I've not picked up a snow shovel all but twice this winter and now not seeing snow since Christmas time is great. Don't get me wrong just look out my window and see snow above me on the mountain at about 4K feet... I'm at 2,800 roughly... Temps floating around at... 30-40*F

Don't call Cummins or Dodge for a APPs sensor... It will cost about $400 buck (or $760 Canadian)... I would call either Jocob Kidd Diesel Auto Power (which happens to be a vendor here) or contact Timbo Directly for a Timbo APPS. They are costing $160 bucks for a replacement... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-replacement.html

Then its a low pressure return line just stop by a NAPA store and get a chunk...

Yeah it does... But remember there is only going to be flow from this return only if the injectors are firing... If the injectors don't fire the no return... The 2 pics show the return line from the head and the tee connector...

Ouch... Well let me give you a link for reading material... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer Snubber or a needle valve prevents water hammer from beating the gauge to death. Because the VP44 tends to open and close valves rapidily so the gauge might be buzzing. This is water hammer occuring live! It quite literally beating the gears against each other. But as for the rapid fall fo fuel pressure it looks like you might need a fuel pump... It should NEVER fall below 10 PSI ever... So I would consider a Raptor or like another member brought up a new setup with Holley HP150... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1312-Holley-HP150-Installation-PICS?highlight=holley (New idea)

Ok here is a tidbit... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm Now take notice the APPS sensor has 2 idle validation switches. If the switch states are in the wrong state high idle, exhaust brake, and idle RPM's will be wrong... But the funny part is the APPS will still show 0 TPS on a data tool. But it more important to get the state of the switches correct. Now I'm going off on a limb I don't like to... 1. Is the APPS old or wore out? 2. Is the APPS producing error codes (P0121, P0122, or P0123) If ANY of these thing are occuring replace the APPS sensor... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-replacement.html Your going to need a DVM... Now as for the APPS idle validation switches they are done electronically inside the APPS sensor. They detect the voltage of the rheostat and determine if its at idle or not. On the back of the sensor is a tage with voltage on it. You wan to check the voltage of the APPS at the ECM (not the PCM). Then using the set screws adjust the voltage till you hit your mark. The wire color and pin number are listing on the pic above... There is several write ups about the Torx screws in back and moving the sensor. Don't bother with that... Just use the set screws on the front much easier to do... As for the voltage double check it after flicking the throttle rapidily if the voltage changes a bunch at idle then the APPS is most likely wore out or wearing out... But if you flick the throttle and the voltage is still set at what the sensor tag shows your good. Now do a APPS reset and try it again...

Is it a electric sender gauge? If so does the electric sender have a needle valve or snubber before it? If not the replace the sender. _____________________________________ If the gauge is mechanical the I would be cvhecking the lift pump soon... _____________________________________ Now stock lift pump have been known to slip the plastic hub inside the rotor head...

Got any APPS error codes? Battery cables and grounds good? Remember the ECM & APPS ground is behind the starter. To inspect it you must remove the starter... Alternator noise from a bad diode?

Actually I heard a rumor that some states might outlaw audio car alrams and might switch over to silent alarms only (Low Jack and simular)... Out here in Idaho nobody locks ther cars/truck... The key are always in the ignition... Vehicle thief is extremely rare... Because the fact is there is only 1 road north and south so if you steal a vehicle you not going to out run Mr. Motorola... As for all the fools that come from Boise, ID and set the car alarms we sit here and laugh or arses off because the kids around here love to set them off... As for my my alarm... It well rather silent... But rather deadly... You get in my truck you got to deal with 80 pounds of Dobbie coming at you...

If its like my AirDog 150 then the stock pump is dead and your hearing the Raptor pulse at key on. Mine will bump the gauge to 15 PSI and fall. This pulse is normal and typical of any fuel pump controlled by the ECM. Basically the stock pump on the block should be disconnected and no longer used but you can remove the pump and plumbing from the old system but you need to leave the mounting plate there. That mounting plate covers the hole in the block form the old school 12V pump.

If its got hose clamps then its low pressure... If its got screw in fittings (flare) then its high pressure...

Well I got back from Boise, ID and got my replacement drive... WeeHaw... 1.5 TB worth of hard drive... Now back to loading it back up with stuff... I'll take the old drive down to the shop and see if I can get if fired up ot back it up...

A lot of people are asking how to pull the fuse from this black clip... (So they can keep it). If you don't want to mess with the clip you can toss it out and push a normal fuse in the hole...

I'm going to be right behind you for testing too... I know I need to buy trans fluid and chnge mine but I'm going to hunt for a good price & product...

You own a Cummins they don't use Ford parts! (Duct Tape and bailing wire)... Yea... That would do it... To thicken up JB weld just mix it up outside in the cold and the epoxy will remain thick... But it might take some time to cure being cold... (Remember) you door light will be on during this time it might be a good idea to pull the batteries wihile it cures... Don't forget to reset your APPS afterwards...

Like myself I would be doing it for the MPg's reasons. Like my Mom's 96 Dodge Gasser is constantly jumping around gear out here with every roll of the highway. It would be nice to lock it up like a manual and let cruise pull it over the hills in top gear instead of dropping lock up, then dropping from 4th to 3rd spinning a bunch more RPM's and then climb the hill (1/10th of a mile) then shift back to 4th and lock up again... Now I know why I bought a 5 speed... But I would like to hold the lock up on the 96... Like climbing dirt roads that trans keeps jumping from 2nd to 3rd remaining unlocked. But funny I can pull the hill in 3rd in my Cummins and not think twice... The other bonus if done right and you watch your trans temps it should reduce them... There should be less thrashing of the fluid from the TQ conv because the lock up.