Mopar1973Man

That's bad CajFlynn... But in any case all you got to monitor is oil usage and the blow by... If you not losing oil and the blow by is minimal... Then keep going... Diesel engines are not like the gasoline cousins... Since the cylinders always have pressure on them the don't normally consume oil through the rings but the tend to push crankcase gasses past the rings. Hence why you monitor the blow by. If you want to validate it easy do a compression test to verify the condition of the cylinders...

Share the wealth...

Pull it out and have it pop tested and see if it leaks on the test bench...

Very funny... But here is the notice from Vbulletin...

Here is how to bleed it out... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/clutch-hyd/clutch-hyd.htm No... The reservoir is re-used... Just pull the hose off gently...

Why so early? Geez... That got to cost a bunch... Even when the dealer did the first few changes I done them as suggested at 6K miles... After 30K miles I was doing them at 7.5K miles then once I added the Frantz Filter I went to 10K miles... Here is the maintenance schedule from the Dodge FSM... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/maintenance/maintenance.htm Then here is the write up on Frantz... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/frantz-filter/frantz-filter.htm Talk to Dorkweed he hasn't change oil in 70K miles now... Using WalMart Unverisal 15W-40 and a MotorGuard Filter (simular to Frantz Filter)... Been testing his oil through Blackstone Labs and still passing the grade constantly... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

The test port is fine don't worry about it... The gauge will show proper pressure...

Hang in there there is a update (4.0.2) coming soon... I'm stuck waiting still till the end of next week...

I'm running Chevron Delo 15W-40 and Frantz Filter I change out at 10K miles... Typical oil changes are done at 7,500 miles...

Hmmm... One of these days I might wear mine out but so far it still tight... Just keep it greased up good... But are for replacement I've heard that the luke link is the way to go...

Took mine off and don't even bother... I rubbed a few holes in mine rather quickly and gave up on it... But when I did have it I just rinsed it off in the sink let it air dry... Still waiting for my filter minder to move...

As for the smoke switch... He's right... I would build for power and MPG... The only time I see smoke is on a hard launch... But if I'm mellow about it... It's not bad at all...

Hmmm... High pressure line to head meets with a flare connection to the connector tube... Then the connector tube meets the injector in the same fashion. So that means there is either a deformation of the one of the joints causing a leak... Or you got debris caught between the joints... Just for crud and giggles would you be will to pop test that injector in #4?... I wonder if the pop pressure is just a bit to high and forcing fuel out... (wild guess!)

As for the slave cylinder I say replace it and the master above. You can use NAPA replacements but you need to bleed it down before installing. Yes its installed as a loaded system. As for the driveshaft thats correct...

Wow! What a PITA... Change out both the connector tube/o-ring and then the high pressure tube... Ok the other thing I was told to look for is check the body of the injector for damage where the two meet. Which your thinking the leak if from...

Well thanks for bring that tidbit over to the forum... Now I got a question for ya... What is the warranty of the Holley?

Might be a good idea to check all driveline and the front axle u-joints like MnTom suggested... Then check the front wheel bearings too... Something isn't right that for sure.

What sad about this in a nut shell is that the American public has to live on a set budget (namely your income) and live within your means... But the Gov't on other hand can continues to keep pushing outside the budget... I really do hope they audit the IRS... That would be a sight to see...

Like mine that I bought I bought mine BEFORE the XGauge function... That's how old mine is... But they had a offer to re-program mine and send it back for free with the updated XGauge software so I sent it in... So now you see my time frame of age plus now looking forward to how the increase of sales... It makes sense...

If I owned one I would be too... But alias I don't... They look too fun...

What your power steering fluid look like? If its dark colored from light tan to black (bad news) time for a flush job... Power steering fluid is one of the most forgotten fluid that should be changed every 30K miles...

Typical... I head the pancake style was common to fail at the diaphram... As for the cylinder style it seem to be holding up better but still I hear of people loosing anti-freeze out of the system and the gauge fall on it face... As for direct connect I've been plumbed this way now for over 6 years now and not a since issue... Other than breaking the tube off at the tap point...Usually it my big hand pushing parts or tools around and I'll break it right at the ferrule... :banghead: Ok... shut the valve... Drive to town spend a hole 10 cents for a ferrule and hook it up again... One of these day I'm going to have to replace that line and hide it better... Matter of fact I'm planning on getting some tubing from NAPA and a set of fitting from Vulcan and change my filter to vP44 line with the newer setup to elminate this problem... Put the tap on the bottom of the filter where it was in the first place out of the way...

Well as for swapping that is not a cheap adventure either... The 6 speed trans (NV5600) is no longer produced so when parts run out that it... As for swapping to a 5 speed (NV4500) that doable but still costly. The fact remains you still need to change out the PCM or have it reflashed for a manual trans. As for trans life the trans temp is critical to trans life. Most don't like seeing temps over 200*F... As for the studder and shifting odd most tend to add a second ground lead to the APPS sensor... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=18 By chance do you have any error codes present? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm But as for first thing I would consider doing a fluid change and a band adjustment... During this time you can see how much debris is in the pan...

I'm of the opinion that back in the day that I bought my SG II the company was still very small still limited to how the sold products now with the increase in sales to bigger places like AutoZone etc... I think they are assembling the product cheaper by other means and now we are seeing the failures in quality control... Like myself when I bought mine I had seen no issues really... Even peope that bought at the same time as me... But now with the increase in sales it getting rather sad to see the problems popping up...

Killer setup! What that pump set you back? This looks to be the next best thing to a AirDog setup now...