Mopar1973Man

Make sure the needle valve is barely cracked open. Seat it closed and barely nudge it open the needle should rise up slowly...(1-2 sec to get to 15 PSI) If its rises fast nudge the valve closed more.

Your just learning how to make it not a issue now... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY

Bellhousing goes on first...(install all the throw out fork and all). Then the trans mounts to it...

Oh.... That what called a PCM (Powertrain Control module) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/pcm/pcm.htm

Been there done that... Thankfully not on my truck...

1500*F is more than enough... Aluminum pistons melt at ~1,280*F without cooling... But most of use have pulled a few 1,400 to 1,500*F runs but short lived... Remember the stock turbo is only good for 35 PSI... Head gasket is only good to about 40-45 PSI...

TCU? As for the error code here is a few thing to check... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-codes.htm (Goto P0122 error code and test...)

Found this line over on DodgeRam.Org

I'm sure if I dug on CF.com for a couple of hours I might find the thread from way back when the VP44 problems started someone had a document of this but back then I never bother to keep (early years of my learning curve). But I'm sure its out there but finding it now would be tough. This way way back when the dealer was arguing volume / pressure standard and the TSB came out... (2001 or so...) Ok let say for disclaimer reason its SUGGESTED...

That look much easier to handle the vacuum pump and power steering pump in single package than trying to remove the power steering pump in the truck...

OK Gang... I discovered something today... For all of you that have mechanical fuel pressure gauges that are direct plumbed can have even more safety now. I found that you can get 1/8" air brake line at NAPA for cheap. The nice part is that the air brake line is rated well above 150 PSI (which I hardly doubt a 15-20 PSI lift pump will blow) and it extremely flexable. So if you kink the line it doesn't break off like oil pressure gauge tubing. This is Polyon Air Brake line. My problem was where my old school big line kit has the tap in the line for gauge is in between the filter and VP44 so every time I would work on my truck I would flex line so much I break it off. Now I got to head to town get a ferule and replace it again. Well that is gone and over... I bought 10 feet and 4 ferules for $6.00 buck even. Cheap fix and no longer got to worry about that line now... Even sitting here right now I'm flexing that piece of scrap line and I can fold it over in half and straighten it out over and over and it just snaps back. No holes or breaks yet...

The only way for sure is to pull the cover and look... I've seen a few 2001 truck with KDP problems and seen 1 2002 with a dealer receipt for KDP repair...

That odd... 5 PSI drop... I'm also runinng a 150 and seeing 17 @ idle and 15 @ WOT... Why such a huge drop? :shrug:I'm also pumping through the stock filter housing with a filter present... I'm most likely got more fueling mods...

Well how about that I got it right... :lol:Funny part was I was guessin' at it...

Subscribed... Hmmm... Better lighting...

Yes... That is the short box bracket... Or you can get the long box flat mount that looks like typical FASS mount against the frame...

A little bit explaination... Bosch's requirements is 70% fuel is to be return to the tank and only 30% burned. Ok... So how much fuel do we burn in the worse conditions? I've seen several times where my Scangauge is displaying high flow ration in the 20-25 GPH bracket with WOT operation. But typically cruising its between 2-10 GPH depending on load and grade. So now stock fuel system is approximately 25 GPH... Oh Wow! Stock system has no return with full load... No wonder the VP44 fail 100% is burned and nothing for cooling and lubing. Now step up to a AD 100 and your only burning 25% of the fuel and the other 75% is being returning for cooling and lubing purpose if you line pressure is above 14 PSI at WOT. (Which most AD system can do without thinking!). Mine with a AD150 is 17 @ idle and !5 @ WOT with Edge Comp on 5x5 and RV275 injectors. (really mild) Then the filter system there is a 140 micron pre-filter protecting the pump (which the stock pump just pump the trash along if there was metal in the fuel it would be pull into the motor magnets of the pump and chew itsself up being the pump was lubed by fuel. Then the output filter is a 2 micron compared to the 10 micron filter so now your VP44 is protected even better from debris and contaminates. Last but not least there is a lifetime warranty on AirDog, Raptor, and FASS so if the pump fails just have it replaced. (Remember to turn in your registration card! - Void warranty if you don't!)

IOD fuse controls that I think...

It got my vote for the tip section... Very well done with the pictures and write up! Give me some time and I should have it up soon!

Nice write up... But there is a problem with both setups... Neither one is setup in a protected manner for offroad usage. I got tons of little dents and bings in the bottom of the rocker panels from all the sticks and limbs I ran over. The AirDog if you flat mount to the frame you'll find that the road debris even road gravel will beat the bottom of the filters till they could possibly leak. That why I kept the short bed bracket and mounted behind the transfer case. This way the skid plate protects the filters from damage. Now if your just a city street driver that fine... But offroad use is not exceptable for those mountings. Yes I backed into that location of the first pic...

Well it more like the Cummins engine was built by cummins. But when Dodge sold trucks in Florida I'm sure Dodge did bother with block heater cords even though Cummins stuck block heater elements in the engine. Who would need a block heater in Texas, Florida, Etc. ??? But all northern turck had cords. But in some travels these trucks traded places. So a guy living in the south goes to Alaska just has to add a cord but the guy the went from Alaska to florida most likely tie the road up or yank it out... Just weird... But be thankful Cummins stuck a heater in all blocks because these heater are not cheap! $120-$140 buck for just the heater without a cord!

I got you covered... I got a ratio calculator... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/ratio/ratio.htm Now you can tune a tweak your mixtures... But typically if you pump 14 gallon you add 14 ozs. Then if you fill up and pump 28 gallons then 28 ozs of oil is used. But the first add do with a full tank will be a quart. After that use the 1 gallon to 1 oz ratio for 128:1 ratio.

Link! I need a link!

Here is a killer write up of adding a extra filter to the system... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fuel-filter/addon-filter.htm

My gauge pops 13-15 PSI and falls... With just a key on no start... Cranks at about 11-12 PSI and runs at 17 @ idle and 15 @ WOT... As long as while the engine is running the pressure never falls below 10 PSI you should be fine...