Mopar1973Man

What you guys think of a bit of 3D graphics...

Here is what I got on the CCD Network. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm But the technoloy of the CCD is very simular to ethernet cable network being it works on twisted pair... But I'm sure there is fast technoloies out there compared to the CCD network...

I've not done it yet but I got a A/C Evap to do this winter/spring.As for the cause of failure if from the coolant becoming acidic/basic from lack of changes. (Every 30K miles it should be flush)

Hmmm... I was affraid of that I would need a tool for pressing them out... I'm going to have to call around and see if I can get a loaner for ya Taz...

Geez... Get some engine oil on those cables... Even mine don't have rust or corrosion on them at all... Look like you been getting carried away with terminal cleaner and over tightening. so if you remove the terminal and clean it will and coat it will engine oil and re-assemble but just snug the terminal you'll never worry about it again. Just remember if you wash the engine bay to recoat the terminals with engine oil.

So try clearing the code and seeing if it comes back...As for the miss then its most likely a injector problem then. Is there a miss at idle? Did you check your connector tube (edge filters)? How about the connector tube O-Rings?

LOL! Yeah that about all the HP it can power 65 HP... So what do you do for the difference of 170 HP??? I'm running RV275 and Edge Comp... I don't want to even go there...:rolleyes2:

Keep use posted I'd love to hear the fix to your problem...

P0500 is a speed sensor error because 1 or more sensors didn't sense movement when the ther others did. Hence pull out of a driveway and spin your tire a little on gravel. This will cause speed increase on the rear axle but the front axle will be near zero so the computer cant figure out why half a truck is going 30-35 MPH and the the other half is 0 MPH... ERROR! P0230 code is from open or short circuit in the lift pump lines. Most commonly its a open circuit (internal failure). What your fuel pressure like? if fuel pressure is good I would just clear the code.

24V series engine gain alot over the 12V series because of the electronic fuel system. It able to give the truck the timing it need right at the exact point in time. Where older 12V relies on a mechanical sense of timing like older gasser engines. Now combined with the Edge Juice and the setting on 5x5 you get maximum timing and MPG will rise. Now on the 12V you got to phyiscally re-timing the pump using special tools. Now high timing numbers like 16 BTDC will perform awesome but might create hard starting. Where lower 13 BTDC will start better but ther performance is lost some... As for the 53 Block... Yes it true that the crack. But not all of them... Most people find if you let it warm up to at least 140*F before hauling it tends to keep thing in check. But I've seen several guys with 53 blocks that have built up 500 HP engine without a issue... But then there is some people common folks that have totally stock trucks and it a grocery getter have them crack. I think it also got to do with the maintenance of the coolant too. Most people dont change coolant till its too late and the coolant pH is acidic or basic...

I'll try searching there next...

Apparently Foxconn didn't want to put there name on that motherboard. The N15235 number on the board goes back to FoxConn but I can quite seem to get the exist board I've come close with 2 models though... P4M800P7MB-RS2 http://www.foxconnchannel.com/product/Motherboards/detail_overview.aspx?ID=en-us0000158 P4M800P7MB-RS2H http://www.foxconnchannel.com/product/Motherboards/detail_spec.aspx?ID=en-us0000191 My problem is I can't seem to find the 4 SATA slots like yours...

Can you get a good clear pic of the motherboard?

I would consider both options carefully... Looking at changing the hard drive settings (common) or flashing the BIOS (uncommon). I would check the BIOS updates to see if there was a update for hard drive limityation problems. If there isn't a update I would consider looking at modifing the hard drive settings...Either way it can be done without winodws present and typically is done from a floppy disc or a bootable CD ROM...

That's what I found from the Haynes manual i got for my Mom's 96 dodge... Spotty at best... Ugh!

You should look up the model of the motherboard through the manufacture... Like mine is a Asus M3A motherboard. So here is the page for my updates for BIOS. [ATTACH]464[/ATTACH] Now look through the BIOS updates on the page which there show be several (maybe). Like myself I'm made a few updates to my board to deal with a few issues. There is 11 updates since the time my board was produced. NOTICE & WARNING! But read up all the information pretaining to BIOS updates. When flashing a BIOS chip you don't want to have any interruptions in power or shut the computer off because it will kill the chip and make the computer unuseable.

Well I would wash it down and try the modified crankcase vent... Its cheap and easy to build... It might just stop the problem if not then I would look towards doing a compression test.

Well at least the information is out for the 2010 people now... Good find!

Still might be good for cars... But After just finding those 2 flubs I was kind of shocked... These two are from the 12V fuel systemNow this is from a 3rd gen fuel system But pay attention to the year and model on top...

Well MPG would be the easiest to find out... Typical stock it rolls in at about 16-17 MPG... Modified it should hit about 19-20 MPG... Or better...

Becareful... This information could pose a problem... Check this out... Go to 2002 Dodge Ram Diesel fuel system and check for bleeding procedure... All the pics are for 12V fuel system... (Huh???) We don't have a mechanical pump. Then go to fuel pump replacement... Fuel pump is not attached to the filter housing... (Huh?) Great to see another information resource but sad the information isn't quite correct...

Well... I wouldn't perosonally... I would stay one way or the other... But I think its safe to do...

I would consider the crankcase vent mod to trap the oil in the crankcase... Mines not that ugly looking... But remember more boost pressure means more blowby the rings. So how much boost pressure do you see?

Yeap if you disconnect the lift pump on a hard start and it start instantly you know the VP44 diaphram is ruptured from low pressure. My band-aid fix is at the bottom of the page...

Just for information purpose... http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/02-001-01.htm Date: Jan. 19, 2001 Models: 1994 - 2001 (BR/BE) Ram Truck NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 2500/3500 SERIES 4X4 VEHICLES. Discussion: Some customers may experience a situation in which the rear of the vehicle sits too high to attach their fifth wheel or goose neck trailer to the trailer hitch turntable. Two packages are now available through Mopar to reduce the curb height of the vehicle. NOTE: CURB HEIGHT LOWERING PACKAGES CANNOT BE INSTALLED ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AUXILIARY SPRINGS (SALES CODE XZB OR CAMPER SPECIAL PACKAGE AHJ) UNLESS THE AUXILIARY SPRINGS AND SPACERS ARE REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE. The curb height lowering package is designed to reduce the rear spring spacer block by 1 7/8 in. which will lower the rear of the vehicle by several inches providing clearance so that most customers can attach their fifth wheel or goose neck trailer to the trailer hitch turntable. Packages include installation instructions and all components required to lower the curb height of the vehicle. Once the package has been installed on the vehicle, the vehicle must have the front suspension re-aligned and the headlamps re-adjusted. Parts Required: Qty.Part No. DescriptionAR (1)05066072AAKit, Curb Height Lowering, 2500 Series 4X4 Ram Truck AR (1)05066073AAKit, Curb Height Lowering, 3500 Series 4X4 Ram Truck Notes: Policy: Information Only