Mopar1973Man

Well as for the smoke cold thatis normal even my truck does that with the Edge Comp cranked up in the mornings... Then if I leave quickly without much warm up it rattles to beat all. (timming rattle).

OK gang... I've been busy working the site and now all the documents are up in the download area... But here is the catch you got to have experience points (which I want to rename). To download the files or documents... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php So now you got to visit the Experience Shop and buy the files... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/xperience.php?go=shop

Maybe not the first few times but after a few winters you can almost twist it with you bare hands...

Ok... So I did so calling around and found a diesel shop in Lewiston, ID that willing to pop test these injectors for a few bucks a piece. But he's swapped right now and won't be available till after the holidays... so I got to put my stock back in for now maybe there is hope...:confused2:

Well I got the connector tube polished up and scratch is gone and so is the leak but the miss is still there... So I'm going to pull these back out and take a downgrade back to stock... Well I got to admit the power is great but the miss sounds nasty like a old Chevy gasser with bad spark plugs... Back to stock here I come...

P0622 Generator Field Not Switching Properly An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit This is caused by either a wiring issue or bad brushes in the alternator. It best to have the alternator removed and bech tested. Then if the alternator failed then just rebuild it... P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Ctrl Circuit Current state of solenoid output port is different than expected (4-speed auto. trans. only).Well I can't answer that one too good but i'm sure some our trans gurus will be able to help ya...

No pull from a running vehicle and the O-rings and copper shim replaced... CajFlynn donated the injectors to me... Then another member donated the coppers shims and O-rings (can't remember the name now) As for this morning I went out and fired up the truck and it fired up just fine but still a random miss and #1 tube in leaking fuel... so I'm going to see about polishing the scratch out that I put in the #1 connector tube... If that doesn't work then I'll buy a new tube I guess...

Here is a few pics from the job... Quick easy way to pull injectors using a intake bolt and a claw hammer you can also pry up using a screwdriver which up got to do for 5 & 6. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=179 Here is my stock injectors after 159K miles and 75K miles of 2 cycle oil. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=178 The engine area all cleared out. APPS sensor, Air intake, Grid heaters, and injection lines. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=177

Might be true but I'm still without a list to define your codes to verify them or to give more diagnostic information. Sorry!

Well... I pulled both batteries out and charged both at 10 Amps for several hours to stir the electrolyte back up. Then gave the battery cases a wash in mineral spirit (degreaser) to remove the grime and gunk. Cleaned the terminals on the batteries and the cables. Stuck them back in the truck 12.8 Volts shown at rest. Key off. Short time later 12.5 Votls at rest. So I'm going to assume there is a dieing battery cell and the batteries are finally getting tried of cranking up this monster. Funny part is that during my re-prime process for my injector install the batteries held up fine. :confused: Cold charging volts is about 14.2 to 14.3 but warm then it drop to 13.9 to 14.0 but now its at least stable for the time.... Very well possible a bad cell is the cause of the unusual charging voltage.

Yeah they do... http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3907766S

Wild and free is refering to Centinel... https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/qsol/products/newparts/centinel.html

Also make sure your using the right oil too... I got desparate once and used ATF on a jack and got it to work but over time the ATF degraded badly. So I had a hell of a time trying to purge all the ATF out and reload with a good grade of Hydraulic oil. Once I did this I got full travel again! As for air bubble in the system you might have to leave the fill plug out and carefull raise and lower a few times to get the air out. Like mine I got air caught in it fill it and shoved the rubber plug back in... Well never the less it only travelled about half way and then when I released (lower) it shot the plug out with air pressure... My jack is really old and needs to be replaced or I need to pull the welder out and weld it back together...:eek:

Thank you TH Racing... :thumbsup: Hopefully you have a enjoyable Christmas with your family and friends there in Canada! It seem that good ol' idaho might just have a white Christmas after all being it just snow last nigh about 2-3 inches! :thumbsup:

Ok... First off I dont have a error code list that is double digit. The only error code list I got is the OBD II P code list. Now as for the BRAKE/ABS light being up and what information you've given. The ABS system I assume on your truck is a 4 wheel ABS right? If so there is 3 tone rings and 3 speed sensors. The tone ring and speed sensor in the rear controls the speedometer. so if you speedometer is working then this one is fine... But there is 2 more tone rings and speed sensors buried on the front axle. Now at this point you going to have to replace both sensor to be sure. Here is what information I got on the ABS controller... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm As of the valve being open I'm not sure. It could be the result of the sensor failure. Speed sensor failure is really common.

Don't get mixed up... The times shown in the list are BEFORE you start the engine. Then your looking at the post heating cycle which is very random at best...

Kind of wonder if the the 2 airbags are tee'd together or separate? If there a kit that tees together then I kind of doubt it will do much. But like ISX is thinking with seperated airbags you could tune the stance.

Your right 12V are different spray pattern... Also your right again there is no year specified...

I think its my fault...(Hate to admit it!) I was using needle nose pilers to pull #1 connector tube and missed the outside and scratched the inside bore face where the high pressure tube seals. :bang: Well lets see if I can correct this problem tomorrow...:red:

Wel las for mixing additive I high suggest against that... Because the PS is a cetane booster and tend to rate poorly on the HFRR scale. Now 2 cycle oil is a natural cetane reducer and true lubricant. So basically you shooting yourself in the foot. As for the P0121 the APPS sensor is going south for sure. You can try the APPS reset and clear the codes but if the code returns the APPS should be replaced. Ummm... You might check the error code book. The other code is a TPS (Gasser) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/error-codes.pdf Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptable voltage.

Well... There in... But... Got the truck running and it runs well but when I got back to the shop and it was idleing it missing randomly. So I started looking for fuel leaks and found that #1 injector line is leak fuel right down the manifold and dripping off the back. But all in all it a good boost of power but the leak is my concern now...:rolleyes2:

Turtle... I got a place that might just have it... http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/ Give them a shot...

Then that means the switch in on the transfer case. It should be on the dirver side of the transfer case. Its just a 2 wire switch...

Oh ok... I got that template I bet... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm At the bottom of the page...

Geez... That's scary... You want to pull mine out for drill too???