Mopar1973Man

Shoot... I wish you lived a bit closer to me... I be more than happy ot look into it... But alias I'm a good few thousand miles away... After looking back over the older post of the thread... Is it possible a mouse built a nest inside you HVAC system jamming the doors? Or make ate a vacuum line under the dash? :confused:

D'Oh! :bang: Ok... Batteries charged up... 12.8 Volts Then using my high idle (3 cylinder mode 13*F at the IAT) drops to... 11.5 Volts After the grid heaters kick out... 12.2 Volts Geez... It nice just push SG II menu button and flip a switch for the worse case...

Thanks for the verification on the speed sensor...:thumbsup:

No doubt... I got to admit even in the summer time its still fun but sure hate life trying to get all the dust out of your nose... :shocked2: Since i bought my ATV in the spring I've gotten over 1.6K miles on mine... I also managed to build enough trails that I can nearly ride all the way to town without riding on paved highways. But with the snow around here I really could use a plow blade and make a few buck plowing driveways...

Chuck that truely sucks to throw your back out trying to yank start anything... As for the carb choke problems... I've seen on my sled and other small engine were the choke slide gums up and stick and you'll end up using way to much force trying to move it. (SNAP!) Or even worse water got down in the cable and froze!

I always thought I would be 21 for the rest of my life... Even though I'm looking down the barrel of 40's! :eek:

Well crap... My truck has been sitting for 4 days in the shop plugged in. I went out and Toggle the ScanGauge II to show voltage and with the key off and nothing one is floating 12.0 to 12.1 volts. But since the block heater is plugged in there was no voltage drop because the manifold is 112*F... So I got to leave the truck outside... As for the batteries it looks like new batteries will be coming soon... If the voltage is falling off during a 4 day park...:shocked:

Taz you might want to put a small description on your links about what there for... Then people know what there chasing...

ISX has is about whipped there... I'm pretty sure there is a speed sensor on the tailshaft area of the trasnsmission. This would be the one you want to change out. But as long as the error code is present the trans will remain in limp mode and continue to shift in this style.

Ouch... You might get out the BFH and a 2x4 and start beating it out...:eek:

Here is what Minnesotans think of global warming... http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3205

Hey Gang! I know its wintertime but its smart to be informed of the weather condition and road conditions before you venture out on the highway in Idaho... So here is the weather pages for Idaho. Boise http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/boi/ Pocatello, ID http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/pih/ Missoula, MT (NE Side of Idaho) http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mso/ Spokane, WA (NW side of Idaho) http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/otx/ Then for Highway information go to... http://511.idaho.gov/ Like for my local cameras near me... (Just south of me by 10 miles) http://hb.511.idaho.gov/cameras/District_3_Boundary.html

Yeap the bed side will have to cut off the spot welds and a new skin welded on. The bumper has to be replaced. Hard to tell if the tailgate is damaged. But it going to require so fund for sure... Or insurance if you got full coverage...(I do!)

Camber or Caster will cause the return normally of the steering... But as for binding up and getting stiff that still points to the gear box more than pump. You never said anything about hard brakes too. So this point back to the gear box again... Remember if the pump is going then steering would be bad all the time with the brakes...

I know there is a tons load of software out these days. I found a great site called Software Patch which is a great place to dwonload updated like Windows XP SP2 without all the BS Microsoft put you through. Or having to hunt down the manufacture of hardware and there web site. Give it a shot its worth it!

It could be a damaged power valve in the gear box causing it to hang up? What your power steering fluid like? :confused:

Ahh damn that sucks to dent up your ride like that... :rolleyes2: Well the damage I got on mine include... [*]Dent in the front bumper from killing deer [*]Dent in the rear bumper from a huge round of wood falling out of the bed hitting the trailer tongue and rolling back against the bumper. [*]Small dent the the driver side bed from some bone head rubbing his mirror down the side of my bed. [*]The Grand Daddy of them all.... Pulling a tree over on my truck! :eek: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=80 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=81 So my truck no virgin to the body shop either...:rolleyes2:

Yeap... But its only 180 miles to my local AutoZone in Boise, ID... I might as well stop at Cummins...:confused: The closest thing to me is NAPA which is in Council, ID at 52 miles from me... :eek:

Oh No... :eek::ahh: The information I looked up was a 1990 1st gen... Let me move this over to the 24V 2nd Gen stuff... EDIT: Your lucky! The information goes from 1985 to 2002 for CAD axles...

Well... The local one in Grangeville, ID is well rather more for farm machinery... Not much for the Dodge Cummins... But there is a Cummins dealer in Boise, ID but its 3 hours away... So either way I would have to drive long distance or just order it anyways... I'm in the middle of Nowhere Idaho... The closest town to me has a population of 300 people...:eek:

Just for the record I'm going to look it up... http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/1st_Gen-12v.htm

Hmmm... Not a bad idea being is was last done at ~95K miles... Hard to tell if its the nasty winterized fuel... Valve Lash... Or the Extreme cold... :confused: Man I'm going buggy looking at these Injection sitting on my desk right next to me... Oh I want to go out and slam in a set of sticks right now and go play... :ahh:

Just helps more when I got a yeap and make in the signature... Other than that I got to guess and hope I hit the nail on the head...:ahh:

Pulled out my big book... Since I still don't know what year truck I took a guess...:confused: AXLE SHIFT MOTOR FUNCTIONAL TEST 1. Raise and support the vehicle. Disconnect the vacuum harness from the axle shift motor and connect a vacuum pump to the vacuum shift motor front port. See Fig. 2 . 2. Apply 15 in. Hg (51 kPa) of vacuum to the front port and rotate left front wheel to fully disengage the inner and intermediate axle shafts (i.e., shift to two-wheel drive operation). 3. The shift motor should maintain the vacuum applied to the front port for a minimum of 30 seconds. If the motor does not maintain the vacuum, replace it. If the motor does maintain the vacuum, proceed to the next step. 4. Disconnect the vacuum pump from the vacuum shift motor front port. Connect the vacuum pump to the vacuum shift motor rear port, cap the port for the 4WD indicator lamp switch, apply 15 in. Hg (51 kPa) of vacuum to the rear port. 5. The shift motor should maintain the vacuum applied to the rear port for a minimum of 30 seconds. If the shift motor does not maintain the vacuum, replace it. See AXLE SHIFT MOTOR under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. If the motor does maintain the vacuum, proceed to the next step. 6. Remove the cap from the port for the 4WD indicator lamp switch. If vacuum was present, the shift motor is functioning normally. If vacuum was not present, go to next step. 7. Apply 15 in. Hg (51 kPa) of vacuum to the shift motor rear port. Rotate the left front wheel as necessary and ensure that the inner and intermediate axle shafts are completely engaged. The axles must be completely engaged (i.e., shifted to 4WD operation) to open the port for the 4WD indicator lamp switch. 8. Determine if vacuum is present at the port for the 4WD indicator lamp switch again. If vacuum was present at the port, the shift motor is functioning normally. If vacuum was not present at the port, replace the shift motor. See AXLE SHIFT MOTOR under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 9. Connect the vacuum harness to the shift motor. See VACUUM HOSE ROUTING . Remove the supports and lower the vehicle. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - AXLE SHIFT MOTOR Removal 1. Raise and support the vehicle at a comfortable working height. 2. Disconnect the vacuum and wiring connector from the shift housing. 3. Remove the shift motor housing cover, gasket and shield from the housing. 4. Remove the E-clips from the shift motor housing and shaft. Remove shift motor and shift fork from the housing. See Fig. 6 . 5. Remove the O-ring seal from the shift motor shaft. 6. Clean and inspect all the components. If any component is excessively worn or damaged, it should be replaced. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83&stc=1&d=1260655616 Installation 1. Install a replacement O-ring seal on the shift motor shaft. See Fig. 5 . 2. Insert the shift motor shaft through the hole in the housing and shift fork. The shift fork offset should be toward the differential. 3. Install the E-clips on the shift motor shaft and housing. 4. Install the shift motor housing gasket and cover. Ensure that the shift fork is correctly guided into the shift collar groove. 5. Install the shift motor housing shield and attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).

Sorry no... That vacuum can on the CAD unit should twist or turn at all. More that likely there is a vacuum leak and that why its not pulling to lock or unlock position properly...