Mopar1973Man

Wow! ISX... So far you got my attention that really good and killer right write for the 12V's... I know taz had looked at it and been reading it a bunch. Keep going... I might have to steal this and add it to the static page write ups. Then I might to cut and paste chunks of this for the 24V side too...

Most all 2 cycle oil today is ashless... TCW3... Hmmm... The only thing to consider is looking at the pour point of snowmobile 2 cycle oil over pour point of engine oil. I think ther pour point of snow mobile oil is much lower and help protect against gelling. Fuel filters for 2nd Gen 24V are rated for 12K to 15K miles (every other oil change). As for my AirDog 150 I'm going 30K miles between filters and there not stock 10 micron filters they are 2 micron fleetguards... Now I do have the stock filter housing and element and so far the stock filter is still clean!

Well its 4:30am and the temp bottom out at 8*F here... (Dang cold)

Truely the only difference between DN 30W engine oil and and 2 cycle oil is ASH content. Ash is the naturally occuring metal that are in the oil. When burnt the deposits can collect on injectors and pistons. But since you running like Centinel you well below Cummins limit of 5% volume of oil.

Some of the basic parts you need... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=10 IAT Mode switch on the left. ECT fooler and the right. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=9 Completed setup of switches... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=11 Simple version... The ECT plug (The lead going back to the ECM) need to wired to the center lugs of the switch. The ECT sensor (The lead going to the sensor) gets wired to the left lugs. The ECT fooler resistor get soldered to the right lugs. The IAT Plug (The lead going back to the ECM) gets wired to the IAT fooler switch center lugs The IAT sensor (The lead going to the sensor) gets wired to the left lugs. The right lugs gets a pair of leads going to the IAT mode switch center lugs. (2nd pic left switch)

When I get home from work I'll dig up some more pics of the setup... It really not that hard at all... :rolleyes2:

Cold weather is continuing... We are starting our morning at 7am at 8*F... Brrrrrr!

Hop over to my book pile... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=2 Download the Dodge FSM for 2001 there is pics of the PCM plug and pinouts...:thumbsup:

Here is a way to set the high idle 3 cylinder forcefully... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=64 Just stick a 56K ohm resistor in the socket and have your engine coolant below 140*F and high idle 3 cylinder will start.

On my Mom's 96 there was a box of BB's dumped on the dash by the previous owner and the BB's went every where. 2 BB's got stuck in the vacuum motor for the fresh air/recirculate door. It wore a hole in the diaphram and cause it to behavor wildly. When the BB landed in the right spot it would seal the hole and allow the door to work. Then if the truck hit a bump and BB moved then the door wouldn't function. The sad part was the vacuum motor cost $80 bucks from the dealer and required the dah to be pulled loose enough to slide the passenger side against the seat to get just enough room to replace the motor... Still a afternoon project...

I've got those now... (Older version) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

Well an Update to the cold weather warning... So far we started out at a low of 15*F and made a total high of 24*F and started to fall again. Once again fi you have a vehicle I suggest using your block heater and getting into shelter.

Well here you go... Check over the manufacture contact and look at the many choices you got and choose wisely... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

Ummm... Errr... Ummm... full dash removal most likely... But I might get lucky and be able to fish ro remove stuff and see in to them...:confused:

Well as far as I understand the grid heaters are controlled by the PCM under the hood near the battery. The IAT sensor sense the intake temps and desides if the grid heaters are needed. Now I know th key trick works on the 1st gens and will display a flash code on the CHECK ENGINE light. I'll get ahold of Taz and find out what wires are hooked to the relays...

Sure... Normal Idle Cold ----------------------- 200*F (0% Load) High 6 Cylinder Idle -------------------- 250*F (0% Load) High 6 Cylinder Idle with Exhaust Brake - 400*F (1% Load) High 3 Cylinder Idle -------------------- 450*F (10-15% Load) high 3 cylinder Idle with Exhaust Brake - 850*F (33% Load) Shaocker how loading the engine help create heat...:thumbsup:

Strange part about you vacuum problem I think it going to be in the cab... Being the axle seem to be working for the most part... But the vents might have a bad vacuum motor? Something jaming the door? :confused:

Nothing new...

For those of us in Idaho I'm submitting a cold weather warning. Make sure you got a bottle of anti-gel or some kerosene around. The temps around here are going to be nearing 0*F and even getting negative temps. Be sure to plug in your block heater or get your vehicle into shelter if possible. Take a preview... http://www.weather.gov/forecasts/graphical/sectors/pacnorthwestWeek.php#tabs Local Warnings... http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/boi/ Like here in Pinehurst the weather this morning is 16*F and still falling. :eek:

Correct... Like my start was at 22*F outside and the grid heaters kicked it up to 40*F in the manifold so it would never start high idle till it was colder yet... Typically its got to be about 15-20*F to get high idle and 0-5*F to get 3 cylinder high idle. Like tonight its 25*F here in Idaho I know my high idle will not start unless I manually kick the switches...

Well I'm right behind you...:rolleyes2: I got home to the stink of fuel and open the hood... guess what I got #1 injector line loose and leaking... So double check your injector lines... But double check the banjo bolt on the back of the head which is a return line from the injectors. Common for the washer to give up and leak or the bolt to back out. Check the tee at the back of the engine I heard of it leaking now and then too.

Check you Alternator fuse? Is the voltage regulator blow in the PCM? :confused:

Man that's going to suck this morning (Sat)... Both of us going out to fire fighter training in Whitebird, ID... :cry2: I got more snow here though...

Well I know there is no relays or switches in between the fuel pump and the ECM. (Aftermarket get it trigger from here)... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ecm/ecm.htm (Wiring diagrams below)

Ok... Then I would pull the dash bezel and pull out the control switch for the vacuum and check the controller for function I know your going to have to get creative with tubing but I would use a piece of tubing and go from port to port seeing if the vents change. I would also measure the strength of the vacuum...