Mopar1973Man

Well the P1689 code is cause from the fuel pump relay... The P0234 and P0236 are MAP sensor codes. The Banks otto mind might be the cause of the errors if you disconnect in and reset the codes and they remaain off the you know you found it...

Come on W&F you got to admit that artwork was really convincing...

If the CEL light is on its because there is a physical error or problem and yes its in limp mode if the light is on... So what error codes do you have? :confused:

Raptor comes with full hardware, plumbing, etc... It doesn't require a 1/2" drawstraw though... Stock sender is good enough for 100 GPH.

As in reset error codes? :confused: If so just use a code reader and erase the codes... Pulling the battery cables will erase the APPS sensor calibration but nothing more...

Dan... Now you can see why the AirDog 100/150 or the FASS 100/150 is popular now... [*]Lifetime warranty [*]Pre-filter and water separator before the pump. [*]2-3 micron filter after the pump [*]All new hardware (fitting and brackets for relocation) [*]All new 1/2" ID hose to replace all fuel line from tank to VP44 So now start adding up the part and kits and I bet you're going to come really close to the same price. But the other thing is the pump will not have a lifetime warranty... So if you do a AirTex pump, Vulcan Big Line, a good pre-filter your weakest link will be the AirTex...

I rarely even hear the fan lock up unless i'm hauling heavy loads of firewood and heading up hill... But the funny part is yes the electric fan create no load for the time there off and so does the stock clutch fan (virtually minor loading) but once the both lock up or come on the load is the same basically because yes the electric fans are not tie direct to the crank but the load is placed on the alternator... Because like in the winter time with my winter front on I can take a old hose and stop the fan. It basically free wheeling in the clutch...

Got it here... http://www.danininc.com/optix/gauge/307413.htm The colored band was photoshop'ed oon that pic...

Dorkweed got a good point... Common Rail Fuel Pressure Gauge... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150&stc=1&d=1262480657

1. Mechanical Gauge 2. DiPricol 3. No you can't buy one... Because its a old school Dipricol that's been photoshop'ed! Here is the actual gauge... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

Audio drivers (Vista 64) http://www.softwarepatch.com/utilities/ac97-realtek-driver-vista.html

40 warm up cycles will clear a code. Warm-Up Cycles Once the MIL has been extinguished by the Good Trip Counter, the PCM automatically switches to a Warm-Up Cycle Counter that can be viewed on the DRB III. Warm-Up Cycles are used to erase DTCs and Freeze Frames. Forty Warm-Up cycles must occur in order for the PCM to self-erase a DTC and Freeze Frame. A Warm-Up Cycle is defined as follows: ● Engine coolant temperature must start below and rise above 160° F ● Engine coolant temperature must rise by 40° F ● No further faults occur

Ok you might want to head over to the User CP and fill out you Signature... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/profile.php?do=editsignature Since your going for high performance your going to have to do some learning and research. Like the quadzilla Adrenaline is good for 150 HP maxed out which will just about max out a stock turbo for boost. (35 PSI for HX-35) Now additional fuel with injection is going to add heat so your going to have consider a upgrade turbo charger. Now you create a slightly different problem the head gasket can hold till about 40-50 PSI then POP! So be aware you might have to consider ARP studs too to keep the stock head gasket from blowing out. I hear that most can get up to about 100 HP injector with a chip and use the chip to control the amount of fuel. Or you got to control the heat with your foot. For everyday driver I found that a limit of about 400-450 HP is good for a daily driver without much issues.

Dan your fuel puel should stay in the green zone... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=231 55 MPH to 70 MPH WOT... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY]YouTube- Stable fuel pressure - AirDog 150[/ame] So your pressure fall is pointing towards line resriction or just lack of volume from the pump... I would consider next the Vulcan Big Line Kit. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm At that rate you so close to the AirDog 150...

Sorry to say your going to have to measure. You can't drop a full gallon of 2 cycle oil in an expect to get 4 full tanks of fuel. When I stop for fuel I pump in the amount of fuel and then add 1 oz of oil for every 1 gallon of fuel pumped so if I pumped 14 gallons then I add 14 ozs of 2 cycle oil. I keep a old quart with windows strip pour from a 1 gallon container. 4 years of this I'm still going no injector problems, no injection pump problems... (110 K miles) 75K miles of 2 cycle oil and all 6 injectors look good. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=178

This is not true with a Cummins... The ECM will only lose the APPS setting as for the CEL light and error code it must meet the requirements to reset the light and clear codes (self erase). http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm (bottom of page) This is why it bugs me to no end hearing everyone saying "Oh just disconnect your batteries to reset codes". I know without a doubt this is not possible on a 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. But it might create a new error code. Which will be the P0121, P0122 or a P0123 because the limits of the APPS sensor was lost... There is only 2 way to erase a error code... [*]OBDII coder reader with a reset ability [*]Allowing the vehicle to self erase by meeting the conditions to self erase. So with this being said... All electronic vehicles have a particular re-learn method (after the batteries have been disconnected) for each vehicle. As for the 98.5 to 2002 is just the APPS sensor everything else remains stored on the computer(s).

Its all right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm

Well... I had a go to Taz's house to give him a hand with his truck and computer. But since this computer stuff... Taz's computer is a AMD 3.0 GHz with 1 GB of RAM 2 40 GB and 1 200 GB hard drive for a total of 3 drives. Well the strange part was it was rebooting randomly and behaving poorly. Well I tried reloading the Window to it to repair the issue and found that the main 200 GB hard drive was present but not functioning propely. What I mean by this is the drive was present in the BIOS boot time but the drive won't not read, write or format... So during the install of windows you try to erase the partition and it would not erase (error). Hmmm... So I pull the computer out and brought it home with me. Now I set it up on my bench and try running Maxtor Disk Tools again the drive (Maxtor 200 GB) and the drive is not present in the tool. What??? So I pull the other drives (2 40 GB drives) loose and only left the 200 GB hook up solely. It works now so that means that the whole issue with random rebooting and faults was cause by one of the 40 GB drives... I ran the Maxtor tool again to verify the drive is good. Maxtor tool comes back and reports... The drive is SMART capable and enabled. Then it reports SMART has NOT been triggered! Meaning the drive is fine and ready for service. I'll find out more tomorrow...:thumbsup:

I'm running Win Vista 64 bit (Super tuned!)... I've learn from other site how to peel the extras off a computer so its like a race car... No style or flash but pure horsepower computer style!

Comments in blue...

Actually the concept was for the Vp44 pumps which were failing at a high rate even back in early years of the 2nd Gen's 24Vs. But after running 2 cycle for 75K Miles and pulled my stock injectors. They looked good just light coating of black soot. Nice part is my VP44 has over 110K miles and still going...:biggrin:

What wrong with sharing a bit of our cold weather with you warm blooded texans...:biggrin:

W&F you got my vote... I'll just buy yours...

As for Taz and myself we played Neverwinter Night's till 12:30am last night and then quit... Watch it snow in the porch lights. :biggrin:

My pyro probe is in the same place as ISX... Like today cruising home in the snow storm at 50-55 MPH and the highway was white also got my winter fronts on I only see 400-500*F pyro. I've seen some low pyro temps to myself but typically rise with the outside temps too... At -20*F weather it tough to see 600*F even rowing...:eek: