Mopar1973Man

LiveOak is right... you need yo be sure you fuel system is keeping the injection pump feed properly. If the system is leaking down over night and the line are full of air it might prove tough to fire up in the mornings... Stock fuel lines from the factory lift pump back are all suction line so they never leak outwards. But the sure do leak air inwards to allow the fuel line from the tank to drain back. fuel pressure gauge would verify this problem because there would be pressure and then the pump would fall. Watch at 37 seconds on the video you'll see I suck in a air pocket. At this point the test failed i had to go fix the air leak. (Loose fitting) Then I started the test over.

Keep an eye on that fuel pressure and drive lightly... also start feeding 2 cycle oil to aid it along...

No actually you get a lot of white smoke of unburnt fuel. Because the common rail is always charged with fuel pressure so if there is a injector leak its sprays fuel constantly all the itime through the cycles (intake, compression, exhaust). Since this is possible if the injector is leaking during intake the boost pressure will push the fuel pash the rings and hence fuel in the oil. At close to 30,000 PSI 3rd gen injectors don't hold up very well at times. I've heard of tips breaking, pintles galling up and seizeing open, bodies cracking up the shank of them, etc. Here I know this is 24V VP44 injectors but notice the top of the injector is still poking out of the head. They never truely go all the way in... Hence why the injectors got a o-ring on it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158&stc=1&d=1262614547 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159&stc=1&d=1262614733 Now the only difference between both injectors is that the 3rd gen's are electronic fired over pressure fired. Now looking back at yester-year and seeing what a VE pump maxed out at was 17,550 PSI and popped at 3,500 PSI on the injectors. We've come a long ways and we are just pushing the limits of the parts...

Yeah lets see the write up! :confused:

Might be true but remember the stock stereo also ties into the CCD Network too... I love the simplicity of a aftermarket radio because it doesn't require any of the Dodge stuff just power and a speaker or two... Something you didn't know did you?

Yeah I do but never bothered to change it... (stock settings) I love stupid animals... I own a Doberman pincher and he does weird and strange things but he protects the house and the truck wonderfully. But now a cat they get into everything. Piss and crap in the house in a box (some unlucky people have it worse). Then rarely have I seen a trained cat, that actually response to commands...

Go here... (vista 64 Bit) http://www.nvidia.com/object/winvista_x64_96.85_2.html

:agree: At 14 PSI the overflow valve is just cracking open so you can bump up to a max of 20 PSI and get a bit of cooling flow now...

Like this too... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-replacement.html

P1688 is a internal failure of the vP44... Sorry! Good question? Also do you have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab? :confused:

Should of requested for the other mount for shortbed durting order and you'll end up with my style of mount... But you did good (actually better) because your mount is stronger than the PureFlow mount...

I'm currently using a Kenwood MP3 player in my truck. Purchased the adapter kit for the wiring and plugged it right in. (Little soldier and wire work but easy). Still running stock speakers but I'm not into big boom. But I've got a wide range of music to listen to. I've currently got over 20 GB worth of music on my hard drive ranging from 50's to current pop music to country to even heavy metal and other types... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/kenwood/kenwood.htm

Right on... Geez you had to make a bracket... Mine came with that bracket... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=5

Good suggestion with CR trucks... Take a drop of oil and place it on a piece of white paper and let it sit awhile. If a clear ring forms around the oil drop then there is fuel in the oil.

Here you go gang... [ame= Probably the Funniest Cat Video You'll Ever See[/ame]

Now what to do about the boost leak you create??? :confused:

Now here is the goofy part of the design... Which direction does the heat go? Up of course right into the intake elbow away from the engine. So basically your heating a pool of air to suck into the engine at start time. Its is why 2 key cycles are needed for 0*F and colder. Need to heat up that alminum elbow a bit... Now during a running engine I imagine the numbers would greatly differ, being cold air is drawn across those grid heaters... But thanks for the tidbit of information... I'm sure no one else has that on there forum...:thumbsup:

Only after they clear 1 million miles... http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/0907dp_2001_dodge_ram_3500/index.html

Sounds like the grid heaters are cycling in and out which is typical for cold weather operation. But the key trick will work. Turn the key ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON without starting within 5 seconds and the Odometer will display the error codes of both the ECm and PCM. As for reseting codes you'll need a code reader of some sort...

Usually cost a shop hour... But here is the TSB. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm

The random lock/unlock is cause by... [*]PCM flash issue (TSB) [*]Alternator noise (bad diodes) [*]APPS sensor [*]Bad ground What funny is these truck go years and years without a issue then BAM one morning all hell breaks lose and people start modifing the truck trying to fix the problem. If you relize the truck ran prefect at one time and there is a cause its just a matter of finding it. Like alternator noise you could pull the alternator fuse to verify. APPS sensor if you had a live data tool to watch the APPS sensor for wrong values.

Well the P1689 code is cause from the fuel pump relay... The P0234 and P0236 are MAP sensor codes. The Banks otto mind might be the cause of the errors if you disconnect in and reset the codes and they remaain off the you know you found it...

Come on W&F you got to admit that artwork was really convincing...

If the CEL light is on its because there is a physical error or problem and yes its in limp mode if the light is on... So what error codes do you have? :confused:

Raptor comes with full hardware, plumbing, etc... It doesn't require a 1/2" drawstraw though... Stock sender is good enough for 100 GPH.