Mopar1973Man

Well at the momnent done nothing... Since my main issue is most the injector install...

Hmmm... right below the ECM on the dirver side of the block near the engine mount...

So you need to replace the fuel gauge sender in the tank its a dealer only item that cost about $70 bucks roughly for JUST the sender. You don't need the whole pickup assembly. (Which the dealer loves to sell!) As for fixing without dropping the tank... Sorry its coming out... As for the overhead display (overhead idiot) yeap... It uses the sender values to calulate MPG's which makes it the most inaccurate measurement. :rolleyes2:

Interesting! I got my old AMD 800 MHz laptop setup the same way... No anti-virus, no firewall, no network sharing services, nothing it can surf the web but that all. The users on it are not Admins eithere they are normal user without right to install. The browser security is cranked up. But here is sits next to me and still going on the web and no sign of infection of spyware...

I'm going to take part of today and go play in the snow and then come home... Time for the ATV! :eek: There is roughly 2-3 inches here...

That sucks... you right safety is a priority number one! Like in my case I always have a set of jack stands ready ot catch my ride...

Here is what I found online... http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=16

Funny... Because Mom says that all the time I did hear you pull up... But I can't escape the Dog (Diesel) he can hear the exhaust brake nearly a mile out as I slow down to turn into the driveway.

Welcome to my humble little site! Check your vacuum lines... If you vacuum lines are leaking it will turn the vacuum pump into a air compressor. Then is the crankcase vent plugged at all? You might think about doing a compression test...

There is a fuse in the panel inside the cab marked IOD fuse... (Ignition Off Draw) Normally this fuse has a weird clip over it.

Hmmm... Simular to what my House inverter does to the battery bank that powers the house. The charger normal keep thing between 26.8 and 28.6 Volts (24 Volts system) but once a month I put it on Equalize Charge which jacks the voltage to 31.5 Volts and charges at a higher voltage and current rate. During this time the batteries tend to bubble and stink of sulfur gasses. After there done I load them up with distilled water and back for another month of use. Funny part is these batteries are nearly 20 years old! Still powering the house and no problems...

Actually I know DuluthDiesel is... You could ask him how its going...

Just for information purpose... Hoesli Diesel Service 5716 E. Morgan Ave. Evansville, IN 47715 1-800-487-1001 (USA) 1-800-955-6384 (OUTSIDE USA) 812-473-5604 812-473-5611 (FAX) Email: hoedie@evansville.net http://www.hoeslidiesel.com/

Ok... back to stock and miss is GONE! I double checked everything and I got it done in nearly half the time as I did the first time... But I took the truck out and got it nice and warm and brought in back and it just purrs like it use to... Now I'm going to contact Idaho Diesel Tech after Christmas and see about getting these RV275 popped test and fixed up...

As for replace skins I've got no info... But as for prevention of this problem is rather simple. I normal take my time and wash either about the truck doors, door jambs, etc. Make sure you spray some water up through the drain holes to rinse any mud or debris out. Then in the salt area I hear people using waste engine oil in a bug sprayer and hosing down the inside of the door with waste engine oil. Just the bottom half.

Sounds good but I truely wonder if its just another Obama speech... Saying anything to get the reaction but when it comes time then do the direct opposite... :confused: I truely given up on our government system... I've been working with local Idaho government on trying to help the fire dept get a piece of land and then after 1 year of jumping through hoop and loops find out you still don't have the land and being lied too by all the government and they seem to be enjoying it too...

Sorry about that but when I changed over to the VBulletin the links died... Thanks ISX for covering that for me...:shades:

Here is my piece meal write up of the gasser starter I did for contacts... Rather easy and quick to do... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?p=4286#post4286 I split the thread so we are not hijacking the OP's thread...

Well like I said I found a local place here in Idaho that will to pop test them for cheap. As a matter of fact I can round it into a shopping trip and make it worth while. As for parts I might have to talk to him about that. Well I got to admit I'm green to doing injectors... I read tons of article but this is my first...

Now that something to look at...:eek: I never knew that... wow! I learned something new! :thumbsup:

Sorry Russ... What I meant was the the tension on the nut will take quite a bit to twist even with the screw gun or drill but after a few seasons of working the nut on and off the nyloc will start to loosen up to the point that it won't rattle loose but you can about take it off with your fingers. (assuming myself). Once again I'd should of known better...

True... APPS and TPS are the same in general function but the name changed so you could tell the difference in parts... (Best guess...) Smiley's... I got too many now...

No they won't fit that the problem Geno's sells the 94-98 series but it seem that the 24V 98.5 to 02 is hard to find (either series early or late).

Give him some time because he's out in the back country right now working on a Cattle ranch. There trying to move cows before the snow close the roads up... I normally stay in contact with him quite well... I know he's going to call me as soon as he gets home being his starter contact are gone...

GW... No ball busting here but trying to stir the pot... I guess I did...