Mopar1973Man

That the name of the game. It best to catch a problem while it small and easy to fix. Yeap this is true... I got quite a few that call me looking for help...

Hey ISX... Arn't you going to give that poor beast a Kylon tune up yet?

Typically most people install a leveling kit to gain that little bit of room. But remember larger tires time to rob you of the MPG number because of the enhanced rolling resistance and rotational mass.

Well you got the frame cleaned up... What the engine look like now? :confused: What are you planing on doing with the engine? :confused:

Here is the Suncoast re-ground. apps ground.pdf

Naw... Normal code readers are limited to just error codes... It doesn't give freeze frame data, it doesn't read live data from the on boar computer on the fly, etc...

Hmmm... I'm low on the milestone at 159K but changing oil at 10K miles and using a Frantz bypass filter with my fleetguard fuel and oil filters...

Ok... There is a few things to test out for this problem. Disconnect the Edge and rest you codes and take it out ofr a short drive and see if the codes come back if not them the Edge is to blame. If the codes come back even after the Edge is disconnected then your going to have to verify some wiing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/map-sensor/map-sensor-codes.htm

Nice one BMac... Good information there...

The bomb bug bit me long ago... But i've got a mild goal that i want to reach which is 400 HP to the ground. Don't nee more than that being 400 HP is quite mean when driving on ICE. Or out on a muddy hill side pulling trees. After watching and studying the forum and people I found right at or around 400-450 HP is a good stopping point becasue you won't need turbo upgrade, or bunch of mods to keep thing from breaking... That why I had my eyes set on a set of RV275's so long is because is a mild upgrade in power but most claim a mild increase in MPG too...

That like the other half switching to Linux. also because there is no need for Anti-virus or firewalls. But Linux and Mac both have the same problems... To fit into society you got to run Windows Apps (MS Office, etc) so in either case you got to run a emulator to fit back in the crowd and use windows software... (Yeah I went to Linux for a short time to see if it was better...) Then if you do hold out for Mac then you find all the software is more expensive and not as much available to the public. Like here where I'm at in Idaho there is nothing for Mac's at all... This is solely PC... I've had several call me regards to Mac repairs and software and found out they are stuck no one locally deals with hardware or software... So they sold the Mac and back to windows...

Taz i found you a set of cheap injectors even you could afford... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230361725964&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=509ce88f1250a0aad375ab35ff1dd84c&rvr_id=&ua=WVI7&itemid=230361725964

Suppose to be here by Monday... Oh the itch is getting bad to tear into it...:eek::ahh:

I normally will not open any attachment even though I got Norton's scaning my email. I usually have phone contact with a person that is sending my a attachment and already know exactly what the files should be. As for jokes and funny pics and what not... I tell people to QUIT sending me this waste of bandwidth. I never both with this stuff and its marked for deletion. 90% of all my mail comes from forums... (CF.Com, DB.Com, etc)

As for aftermarket stuff most all of it comes out to the driver side batter for hook up... Which I'm going to clean up in the near future... But all the cables and stuff have been kept clean and the positive cables and post are not oxidized (blackened).

I've got a Jacobs Brake on mine from Dodge for about $700 bucks shortly after I bought my truck. as for problems with the system there is rarely any problems with it expect I had a Vacuum valve fail causing it to stick. This was covered under warranty. After that I found there is a stone screen on the dump port that need to be removed and washed once in awhile. But as for performance of braking it works awesome... I'm sure there is better designs out since mine by now... But I'm still running stock brake pads on my truck I've never done a brake job yet 159K miles later. I haul heavy during the summer with firewood and travel 30 miles of forestry dirt roads from 8K elevation all the way back down to 1,800 feet... I've gotten so good about using it I never touch the brake while drive now. Theonly time the brake pedal is touched is to STOP completely or if something sudden happens. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=24

Sure here is my install... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

Well That what I going to do I guess... But as for the lights... On or Off its still bouncing the voltage... I tried with everything on and with everything on... Just weird... The rocker switch has a LED light to alert me to it being on... As for the beacon light you can see it reflect off the road signs even in the daylight... Yeah it does bounce a bit... Like I was watching go up to 14.1 and then fall to 13.5 and back up to 13.8 then 14.2... Just all over the place... As for the grid heaters... It don't help leaving the fire radio on all night and coming out to a truck with 12.0V ... Grid pull to 11.2V and Pop up to 11.8V before starting... I wonder if a grid heater is stuck on??? :eek: ___________ Addon: I just went out and check the battery voltage and it falling since I got home 12.5V. I starting to think there is a internal short in the batteries and they are giving up. Yes everything is off!

Ok Gang... I'm looking for a bit of help on diagnosing a charging issue. Been a busy day for fire calls today and on my way home from this last fire call I was noticing on the SG II my charge voltage is low and erratic. It still within spec of 13.5 to 14.5 volts but it bouncing a bit. With my lights all going its hover right at 13.5 to 13.6 which is usual for a charge voltage. Then it might bounce up to 14.0 to 14.1 then fall again... My first though is field brushes are wore out... Still running stock batteries 8 years old... No codes either... Now here is the kicker I need to do this without throwing a ton of money at parts guessin' I don't want to blow my Christmas Cash on repairs now... HELP!

True! So very True! I think what would happen for the most part is people would find a way around the sensor the urea tank and run without it. Or the other thing is to load it up with distilled water since Urea is mostly de-ionized water... Hmmm... Maybe there is a way around this stuff after all... :eek:

I think that is the trick to it to pre-filter the fuel before the pump to protect the pump from damage. Another good reason way FASS and AirDog fuel pump work so good is because of the prefilter setup...

Looks like the tappet and valve covers are you biggest leaker for oil... But congrads to yanking out you engine...

EdCasey... Great looking fuel system... But I got a few questions... [*]What you fuel pressure like? [*]How much did the walbro's cost you? [*]How good is the life span of a Walbro pump?

I've bothered to watch the videos... But I know I can pull a VP44 in just over 1 hour... The nice part is getting the gear pulling from industrial injection and it will make life so easy...

Ummmm.... I might have to ban you from having beverages at the computer...