Mopar1973Man

Actually it does still turn while unlocked. The shaft rotates slower but still it will turn. Does on my 1996 Dodge with CAD axle.

Next time I see you @JAG1 I'll drop an manifold bolt in your intercooler.

Don't have to do the other grounds because the W-T mod will relocate the grounds. That would be a waste of time cleaning up the old ground to relocate to a new place which will force you to create a new clean ground.

My video is still around on the youtube channel. Just hang the whole assembly and pump hard and fast in on the slave cylinder and then slowly let it out. Slower the better that way you don't draw air back down from the reservoir.

There was another member here with the exact same issue. DTT transmission with stalling. Everyone swore the torque converter was the problem. Nope. He had his injectors sent back to DAP and had then popped for 325 bar IIRC. The stalling issues STOPPED completely. The pop pressure was too low making the injection event too early and the engine could not recover quick enough so it stalls. After @pepsi71oceanupped the pop pressure his stalling quit. Might take ot him and ask him for more details of what he's done. Like my truck I had a set of +75 HP 7 x 0.0085 SAC injectors after a long run down the interstate and get to Boise my truck as a manual would stall coming to a stop again this set was popped to 305 bar. After have those swapped out and went back to VCO injectors and popped at 310 bar all was well again but the life span was a mere 75k miless and started to misfire after that. This when I built the 7 x 0.010 VCO injectors popped at 320 bar.

Most pre-bled kits will cost you extra. Then there is roughly 1 and 10 chance that it work out of the box. So many times I've gotten pre-bled and have to pull the system back out and rebled the master and slave over again. The problem is with shipping and handling did any air travel back into the master? etc. The last one I got from Valair worked out of the box but late... I had to pump the pedal several times to work some small amount of air out. This is installed on the 2006 Dodge. I did one for Russ truck last winter and it was a prebled as well. PITA to get adjusted to prevent hyper-extending the throw bearing. If you do it will ruin the pressure plate fingers. Still got OE styled on my 2002 truck and manually bled every time no issues. 431k miles.

I've never been a huge follower of oil studies. Typically the results go to the big brand names, AMSOil, RedLine, etc. There is other oil studies done here that people gone a long ways without big brand oil. Take to @cajflynn 1.3 Million miles and Never used any synthetic oils ever not to mention changed oil every 20k miles. Then there was @dorkweedthat ran over 84k miles on Walmart SuperTech Universal Diesel Oil 15w-40 and tested every 7k miles. Not to say the tested oils are bad but don't discount others. Seeing members running past 1 MILLION MILES mark and not using high dollar big brand oils is proof enough for me... Like @cajflynnjust Chevron Delo 15w-40 and Fleetguard filters nothing special. Like myself I'm either Chevron Delo or NAPA (Valvoline) for oil 15w-40 and NAPA filters right now.change interval of 10k typically. We've got another member here right at 950k miles now...

Popped too low in pressure id your rising above 800 RPM at all. All Cummins ISB engine idle at 800 RPM. The only way to increase idle speed is to drop the pop pressure below 290 bar. Then to show the specs even Dodge FSM specs say 293 bar is bottom. Like my OEM stock injectors tested out at 260 bar at 120k miles. The idle was 850 RPM. Span plus or minus... 4500 - 250 = 4250 4500 + 250 = 4750 PSI to Bar 4500 PSI = 310 Bar stock 4250 PSI = 293 Bar 4750 PSI = 327 Bar Proper injectors should hover with +/- 10 RPM from 800 RPM. The engine load should be like 7% to 10%. Show you reversal. I'm 7 x 0.010 injectors (+150 HP) and popped at 320 bar. Cleaner, no smoke, slightly less flow but idles exactly 800 RPM +/- 5 RPM. Engine load when new was 13 to 14% this shows the VP44 working a bit harder to get pop pressure. Now with nearly 100k miles on the injectors I'm down to 6 to 7% engine load but rock solid at 800 RPM idle. NOTE: There is members that had injectors loose over -10 bar after running about 20k to 40k miles. If you popped too low near the lower margin then it will be a very short life of the injectors. Like shops popping for 300 bar only last like bare 50k to 75k miles and already popping too low.

Your is done. Worn out... Should not be signs of rust and moisture which you have this master is cooked and no longer good. While you at is order a new clutch safety switch from RockAuto. Once your up around 400k miles that switch will die.

What sized tires are you running and what is your axle ratio? This is what makes or breaks a good setup. You need optimally after tires and wheels 3.55 to 3.73 final ratio to the ground. I've got 3.55 gears but with the 245/75 R16 tires my final ratio is 3.69:1 to the ground. Then I'm not running a monster huge turbo but a Hybrid HX35/40 which is (60/60/12). Speed wise I'm at perfect 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH and then at 2,500 RPM I'm doing 82 MPH this is a good proper ratio. Let's say with NV4500 transmission I'm in 4th gear (1:1 direct) by 25 to 30 MPH. Most go up to 35 inch tires on 3.55 gear and now the final ratio is more like 3.27 to the ground and the truck struggles to make power. 37 inch tires on 3.55 is a perfect 3.00 to the ground. Anything with 35 to 37 inch tires REQUIRE 4.10 axle gears. No way around this fact. For every ONE pound of rotational mass you add to the tires, wheels, driveline is like adding another 8 pounds on the frame. Bigger tires will always consume more fuel to get spinning or excessive heat the brakes because of stored energy and stopping. Hence why my brakes last over 200k miles per set. Not to mention going down in tires size lighten them even more. Reduction of rotational mass. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html So now you understand why I went down to 30 inch tire on 3.55 gear to enhance the torque output which it did, it reduced roughly 100*F off EGT's, it reduced my transmission temps by another 20 to 40 degrees, then improved towing MPG's 14 MPG towing my 31 foot travel trailer (Jayco).

What is the engine load in park or neutral? What is your idle speed in park? What pop pressure were the injectors set to?

Yup. Protects the ECM.

Some version do have a relay and fuse. Then like the DDRP typically don't the plug directly into the ECM which when it does lock the motor up it burns up the ECM circuit. Typically the relay is mounted on the cowl (at least I do this)

Yeah common for Raptors. The bearing and seal fail and pumps diesel into the motor then locks up and blows the fuse. Only solution is replacement... My 3rd Gen AirDog 150 died the same way. When you call for a new pump ask for the 4th gen pump the bearings and seal is upgraded.

Are you getting fuel from a farm tank or similar? Really common out here the farm tank gather water and all kind of issues can come with it. Check with your local fuel station to see if they run water blocking filters on their pumps. I know my local Chevron does have water blocking filters. Check for air leaks as well. I just got done with @Jthorinjectors went down to the dump to ditch the trash in the bed. We had less than 1/4 tank and got up on the top of the pad short climb and it was lopey. Shut it down and looked around nothing leaking out or anything. Dump the trash went to start and it lost prime (long hard start). Ran home grab my wallet and dropped $40 in the front tank problem is gone. Idle fine every stop. So he's got a sucking air leak either on top with a rotten rubber hose or bad pickup in the tank.

Just for info... From the part number book.

With all this being said, how were people achieving 45psi on a 64mm with stock or 90 horse injectors?? I'm running 7 x 0.010 +150 HP DAP injectors these are popped to 320 bar not 305 bar. HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) this so close ot the same as HE351 except my is a 12cm2 housing not a 9cm2... Then my latest tune which is using all the timing available. 3,000 RPM is set at 29.5 degrees. Turbo is capable of about 45 to 49 (absolute MAX). I know this is not optimal for me but... Boost leaks are not SUPER CRITICAL like 99% of the people make it out to be. You can have an audible boost leak and still tow and keep driving without EGT's blowing through the roof. Lose a bolt out of the manifold yup you can hear it but EGT's rise a bit towing still doing highway speed climbing a 6% grade. Then the other test actually making a huge boost leak and standing on the throttle heading up the highway and listen to it blow air everywhere but still able to make 40 PSI. Tuning can impact boost quite a bit. Like being retard will help build boost more. This why on the Quadzilla you need a good health drop of retard in the 1500 band. Then from there on out use the load-based and Low PSI timing reduct. These two will build your boost across the tune when you go from cruise to heavy throttle. Once the high load is over it will flip back to the load base to till the cruise limit can be reached and then advance to cruise state. The fuel map is just a fuel map. There is a few tricks there too. Find your common cruise realm For me it's 6% to 16% grades around me. My cruise state is wide so I defuel for smoke from 0 to 5 PSI. Now from 5 PSI to 15 PSI is all 100% stock. Nothing more. This is my cruise state. Well, all started out just ramping straight up from defuel to 150% without a cruise state. Now here is my trick for fuel and getting the wiretap and CANBus to run together. After your cruise state and CANBus start climbing. So I've got my Pump Low Boost Scale PSI set for 15 PSI and the CANBus starts it climb at 15 PSI now both the fuel map are stacked and now you have SERIOUS power. This is something most don't do they set the wiretap down at 5 PSI to get the tires to smoke. Don't fool yourself with this design... I told my girlfriend @Wet Vetteshe couldn't drive the truck with this much power... She told me to pull over... Chinese Fire Drill... She hopped in and belted up and she said HANG ON! She launched in 2nd boost built at 15 PSI and tires started to smoke as the wiretap hit. Then grabs third and she lights the tires again. Then shift to 4th and gets a small bark. Then grabs 5th and continues up past 85 MPH. She wasn't joking around either!

Like my run yesterday I used a screwdriver to arc the solenoid stud and the positive stud to test the starter. If the starter is good then... Starter Relay in the PDC swap with a another like fuel heater. Starter Solenoid fuse (test with a ohm meter I've seen these crack and fail.. looks fine but no connection.)

Just has done a rescue call yesterday for a Jeep. Key on the dash lights up and headlights are bright. Hit the key and it black no click. Changed the battery it started right up. William has AAA and the AAA told him the battery is good starter was bad. No where correct. The battery has a cracked bus bar and is opening up under load. Change the battery it started right up.

Yeah just to prove the boost leak I unhooked the waste gate hose left it open then pulled one manifold bolt I only lost 5 psi total from 45 as a top. Noise very audible but no real change in EGTs. I've had a bolt blow out one before towing but no big issue. Here the air blowing out and still drove home.

Yeah under that cover should be a weighted latch make sure the weight moves freely and not sticking.

Just another example I rode along with my buddy Sean Davis to Lewiston so he could have stitches pull from surgery on his shoulder. We went in his Chevy truck and he's running big over sized tires. Front axle was aligned. Front tires are cupping bad and shaking the steering wheel. The tire shop thinks the front shocks are wiped out so we had the rotated and move the problem to the rear and still bad. Like I told Sean should had them re-balance the tires. So at some point today I'll be installing shock on the front of his truck.

Fuel sender for DAP... They do carry the full senders in stock... Thanks @dieselautopower

Low rail pressure is typically a rail leak. I've seen crossover tubes come loose and leak into the return rail. I've seen totally wore out injectors drop rail so bad if it did start it wouldn't idle and stall again. Rare for CP3 to fail typically do rather well for long time as long as the lift pump keeps up. I've got to ask how many miles on the injectors? If it over 150k miles you due for fresh injectors very very soon. Liker my 2006 Dodge 3500 we ran it back and forth for a day and filled the crank case up with extra 3 quarts of diesel fuel. I've got 189k on that truck and all 6 injectors got to be replaced. I've got 2 more Common rail trucks to do injectors on soon. One currently will not start at all. The other one is starting and running but all injector have codes.

Every one on the property here all rather drive MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS. Automatics are for sissies and snowflakes. Sad but true we have a few automatics here. 1996 Dodge Ram with a modified 46RE more like 47RE and shift kit. Then @Wet Vetteshe has a Hyundai Automatic but does allow for manual shifting of all 6 gears. Where I like to play more.