Mopar1973Man

Out here it would be best to force oil down the jacket being amount of salt on the roads will eat the cables and graphite is not going to protect from rusting.

I power wash engine all the time it will not hurt anything... Just let the engine cool down below 140*F before starting. You can spray down everything just don't spray directly at plugs or connectors. Everything can get a bath.

Still using standard old lead acid batteries. Still very capable of equalize charging. Heck, the house batteries here are over 10 years old and still going. There is eight 6V batteries tied in 24V bank of 2 banks of batteries. I've had this system since 1997 that's 24 years of service. I've also only replaced ONE set of batteries. Its no different that a RV. I'm self sustaining power system just the house doesn't roll on axles bnut fix to the ground. Just a bigger system and supplies 30A at 120VAC. (4,000 watt inverter). As for the batteries I always tend to sway away from AGM or Lithium batteries because of the sealed nature. You have to remember my batteries are in service 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. Not like a RV that you park and not live in daily. I still to this day do equalize charging and top of my electrolytes. Being my batter to replace all eight is roughly 4,800 to 5,200 dollars on today market. I've got 820 amp hours worth of batteries at 24 Volts. This system runs 24 hours and 7 days a week. Constantly charging and discharging supplying the house with power daily. These battery are TRUE deep cycle batteries designed for home power centers. For those that are "weekend warriors" can't compare usage being this system NEVER shuts down. This system power everything in the house except - heat pump & A/C, drier, stove and oven. Loads are too big for my small 4kW inverter. This system has been running for 24 years now powering my house daily! Matter of fact just last week I just topped off with distilled water and ran a 2 hour equalize charge and she is ready for the next month of power outages and burn outs. Average power outage here is 12 to 24 hours. Longest was 17 days. So for battery supplied RV or homes I do have this all dialed in...

Not really. You would have to be terminate the circuit with the same bias voltage too. So my thought is to pull the PCM and have it bench tested by a rebuilder. Very possible the same thing happen to you as it did to me... If the alternator fails and shorts out the blue wire to ground because of mechanical failure. The PCM is on a 20A fuse but the circuit board will not support the 20A fuse so it burns up the tracers inside the PCM. Hence why after having my bnech tested I found my printed circuit board was burned through completely. Required a full replacement of the PCM. To protect this from happening again I added a fuse in the blue wire off the PCM and put only a 5A fuse on that blue wire so it will not burn up the PCM again. If the circuit is burned then yes no matter the data you switch transistor is burned up. Here is how I stopped the problem...

In my case around 350k miles I had my head curl some and the head gasket started to leak near the rear of the head on the passenger side of the block.

I'm still going on my DAP pump yet no issues...

None. Never had one.

Like one our members @flagmanruss is a MS patient as well. I'm not sure if he's still with us but last I knew he wasn't going to hot.

I made a few tweaks to this tune. Since the pop pressure on my truck is higher my running cruise timing needs to be 21° at 2K RPM. I'm upped the cruise timing to 4° and so far I'm right at 19 MPG but the zero boost part came up just a weebit I run about 2 to 3 PSI at 65 MPH flat ground. This last two tanks I only got 17.84 and 17.06 MPG now after the change I used only half the amount of fuel to get back home from Lewiston this trip. I'm barely even a 1/8 tank down for 130 mile trip since the update to timing. I'll update the down load soon. Also I've had a quite a bit of idle time on that tank so its not a far number during winter. Also with the winterized diesel here is low in the BTUs with the high cetane. I kind of want to leave the first one alone so others of stockish pop pressure can play with. I'll post the update as 1.0.1 version. The other problem I tend to play once in awhile with out vehicles. Still a vicious tune from light to light. If the road are even lightly wet I have troubles getting the tires to stick. Like my last run to McCall for parts at NAPA climbing the 7% grade every corner you have to back down get around then I would lightly squeeze and the tires would hop and skip as the power came on. I'm restricted to levels 2 or 3 for the most part on Quadzilla just for traction reasons.

No, DAP no longer is selling Industrial Injection Pump. DAP is using Midwest Fuel Injection and one other rebuilder. I don't remember the name. Sorry. Just installed one of those yesterday in about 2 hours.

@JAG1 Be careful you have no idea what I'm capable of...

Yup exactly. Hence why my landlords truck blew the 150 Amp alternator fuse I installed while running his winch. Even though the alternator is only 136 Amp. As the batteries dropped in voltage being totally wore out it increase the current from a already tapped out alternator and blew the fuse out. Again batteries have more of the role of "storage of energy" to be redelivered to the electrical loads. Alternator is only to recharge the batteries NOT to sustain high loads. Being like myself got two WalMart batteries at 810 CCA that is 1,620 CCA if that can't sustain a winch for a time of pulling then I would say batteries are not doing there job. Even stock was 750 CCA for 1,500 CCA total. Yup, Even with 136 Amp stock alternator and weak batteries you can blow a 150 Amp fuse or circuit breaker. Just because the batteries are weak or no longer have the capacity for said loads. Again like even the rebuilder down in Nampa, ID told me the alternators are not to blame but weak connections, bad grounds, and weak batteries.

If you trailer socket has the door on it and the spring is work it should hold the plug locked in. Like mine I' lost the door when Russ push it in the shop. So now I've got to use a bungee cord and hook the hitch frame to keep it plugged in.

One to look for is a cracked pickup tube. I've seen 2 different truck now that fail after about 1/4 to 1/2 tank. The corrugated tube for the pick up could crack all one corrugated tube and its hard to spot.

Yup. I know. But just showing why...

@MoparMom had signs of Parkinson's before she passed on. Her right hand used to shake randomly at times. That is highly impressive. Mom's was very mild comparing but Wow that is a huge improvement for others!

The biggest thing was I been reducing loads (mechanical and electrical) on the vehicle completely. Electrically, I switched over to HID headlight which are half the load (35 watts - 2.9 Amps) but 4 times brighter lighting (4,000 lumens vs 860 lumen halogen) and my driving lights are 4,000 lumen LED which draw a mere (18 watts - 1.5 Amps). The rest of the exterior lights are swapped over to LED. I've got the interior light for cab done but not for the cluster yet. Hence I don't need a monster alternator now being most of the electrical loads have been reduced. Heck just the red LEDs in the taillights are only 0.5 Watts for a mere 0.041 amps... What do I need a monster alternator for? I use to run four 100 watt aircraft landing lights. These draw a bit over 20 amps. Then it was set up for 2 on hi beam and 2 on lo beam. Then got into the silverstar headlights which were pretty hoot and draw quite a bit of power on hi beams. Just remember bigger alternator, bigger loads on the engine. Again I'm aiming to reduce all loads on the engine and electrical system not add to it. Less loads at any time mean better MPG's and going farther on a gallon of fuel.

Never had any suspension or steering issues. Now steering boxes can be mis-adjusted. I got mine from Blue Top and had just bit too much slop for my taste. Like Ryan told me there is no way to adjust a box on the bench and set sector adjustment perfect. He tends to be on the loose side. I added about 3/4 of a turn tighter and problem is gone. Tight box. After 350k miles my box was still tight and in excellent condition. Only needed at new input shaft because rust pitted the shaft caused the leak. Life continues on the repaired BLue Top... 426k.

Diode in the store are direct replacements. No difference in ratings. Like most alternator rebuilders told me is not the diode being weak but wiring, batteries, and bad grounds. These problems tend to add the stress on the diodes to make up for bad connections or weak batteries.

Hey now... only the people doing illegal activity should be responsible. I might be pro Trump but, I do not approve of treaspassing or vandalism. Also look at the fact it all them went home. Not like all the racial riots that happen back last summer that went on for days.

No not that I know of. We have the most current flash for V2 in the Download section.

Matter of fact I do have a 2006 that needs this fuse box or the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). Let me know what options you have on that I could have this sold very quickly.

I had mine even spit out a shot of power steering fluid once on my floor mat too but never seen it again after changing power steering fluid.

Yup, I see a lot of that between the larger cities like Lewiston and Boise. Very true. I've heard nicknames for this style and its something I can't repeat here.

Yeah high idling with help a bunch being the alternator isn't designed to max charge rate for idle speeds. Just need 1,200 RPM to reach a good RPM. This will help pull air through the alternator and the diodes to keep them cool. This is part of the reason behind the high idle kit I build was to kick up the RPM's to keep the engine warm on cold days and also to get the alternator up from idle to keep it cool under load. Since I did the W-T ground mod, I not had to replace an alternator since. Between jump staring dead vehicles, etc. I will again admit that I don't have a winch on my truck, but have had to power a lot of dead vehicles in my 426k miles.