Mopar1973Man

Bliss, ID 2020 Mohave Valley, AZ 2020 Oatman, AZ 2020

Basically the P1698 and the P1694 are both CCD Network errors. Need to check the CCD network voltage for 2.49 and 2.51 volts when the computer are not talking. Pin 3 and 11 to ground. Reasons for failure... Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly REMEMBER the instrument cluster is what sets the bus bias voltage.

Should of pull the HVAC box completely and cleaned out all the old anti-freeze and lubed all the door pivots and the stepper motor too. Evaporator for the A/C typically looks like crap by the time a heater core fails.

My trip to Arizona I had a bad connection on the trailer that did the same thing the left turn signal wouldn't work correctly at all. After unhooking thetrailer it work correctly. So I would look at your trailer first before the multifunction switch.

That sucked... I remember you mentioning that... Mine I've never got to adjust to the wastegate really. It still hits 45 to 49 PSI regardless of my setting so far.

Just a to point out something that happened to me... I've got a permanent magnet train generator on my pelton wheel generator. Now I using a full wave rectifier on both outputs. I've got just mere 15 Amp fuse in the line. Now I wanted to control the generator with my house inverter has got a tiny little 5A relay. Using the 12V battery system and Ford Starter Solenoid. Now the little inverter relay controlled the Ford Solenoid (constant duty). This was just fine. First operation of it it clapped closed and the voltage started to rise like it should hit it charged state. Inverter dropped the relay and the Ford Solenoid opened. The generator had enough energy and not enough air gap it continued to arc and burn. It burned up the Ford solenoid in mere seconds smoking. Then back fed the inverter and burned up the control relay as well. For what ever reason that solenoid doesn't have enough air gap and the arc continues internally. Might be what happened here hence why the burnt smell.

That is correct for a true empty system but since most folks don't get the last bit of water out of the system then its about 5.0 to 5.5 gallons typically on a refill. I just dump the first gallon straight to make up for that water left from a block flush. I know the feeling well.

Most of this article is from the ASTM testing labs document. In a nutshell here is what my local fuel do when I checked the specs. The dark green is the summer fuel and then winterized fuel up here is the light green. The point at which the two lines of the same color cross is the cetane number. (Cennex Fuel) Now just to really blow your mind now that cetane is being discussed true racing of diesel you need high cetane fuels. You need a fuel that is super quick to ignite and completely burn off at 4,000 RPM's. This is why you see all the drag truck rolling serious coal. They must dump huge amount of this high cetane fuel to make up for the loss of BTU energy. Same concept with gasoline racing they switch from gasoline to alcohol because the fuel has to be quick but alcohol has way less BTU's vs gasoline. Hence why the long duration cams and big carbs. Get that fuel and air mixture jammed in the cylinder. So during the winter up here the fuel BTU's drop nearly 10k BTU's. Just to point out that with high cetane fuel I'm now 5% higher in engine load to just travel the same highway at the same 65 MPH. This point out the reduction of BTU's. Back to the timing part... So now with winter coming and colder weather. The engine block temperature will be the same for the most part. Thermal efficiency you want your coolant temperature high. 190*F is a stock thermostat but even a 6.7L Cummins has a 200*F option that will fit our 5.9L. High your coolant temperature the better thermal efficiency between the cylinder and the coolant jacket. If you coolant is too cold then the flame energy is absorbed by the coolant jacket by a certain percentage. With high coolant jacket temps part of this heat energy is returned to the cylinder to heat the air and get the fuel to convert from liquid to vapor (flash point) to BANG! (ignition). Here is where the winter fronts and the high temp thermostat comes in. Now your artificially creating a mini-summer like condition with blocking out the intercooler and using hotter thermostat. Now with subzero temperatures the extra heat will create slightly faster ignition of the fuel hence why again I would choose to limit my advancement. REMEMBER - It takes heat to warm the diesel fuel to 150°F to 180°F the flash point of the fuel, make the fuel turn to vapor and go bang. Larger droplets take more heat and long duration to ignite. Low pop pressure is also negative effect being once your below 280 bar or so the spray pattern degrades and the droplet get bigger. Taking longer to burn. COLD AIR IS NOT A DAILY DRIVER FRIEND! This one reason why I will continue to point out optimal temperature IAT is about 100°F to 140°F this is plenty warm enough for getting even low cetane to go bang in a quick order. So now your seeing what I do to ensure good winter time operation with the least amount of loss. Just to point out that stock ECM tune below 80°F IAT temp the ECM advances 4° worth of timing. Another reason for the drop of MPG during the winter. Also take note I RETARDED timing for the winter because of high cetane! Timing wise on the Quadzilla its about getting to the lowest ENGINE LOAD possible for all the RPM band. Another way to pick it apart. Work with each RPM band separate. So if your starting out with 1.5k RPM band set it for 13° and then go out and see how setting your cruise in top gear at 1.5k RPM. Now measure your engine load in cruise state. (Remember cruise timing is ADDED on top of the 13°.) Then go up to 2k band and set it for 17° and test that the same way. Between cruise timing and the max timing you can create exactly what your truck wants for timing. Not many need to go to 2,5k RPM band for cruise state but I'm one that does being with 30 inch tires and final ratio at 3.69:1 that puts me at 2.5k RPM at 82 MPH. Even again with high RPM's travelling down the interstate 84 in Boise. I can safely twist the 2.5k RPM and still rock 19 to 21 MPG. I've done it many times. Winter or summer. Tough part is getting it to be able to reach a cruise state at that high but I've actually done it a few times. I know I've got a few screenshots of cruising at 80 MPH and still getting below 25% engine load then stepping up to 25° to 26° cruise timing. Now just to show you the basic concept of compression ignition using a fire piston. This is exactly what our diesel engines do compress air to get enough heat to ignite fuel.

Yup he's got you on the right direction so far. You do realized after just about 20k to 30k miles those injectors might drop pop pressure again and be below minimum pop? Dodge FSM minimums are 293 bar. 4500 PSI - 250 PSI = 4250 PSI now convert to bar which turns out 293.0272 bar. Going to have a short life span with those +75 HP. Even stock injectors are 310 bar and the only reason why shop pop low is to increase fuel flow but makes the droplet bigger and tends to create more smoke. Hence why I had my 7 x 0.010 popped at 320 bar which is still below the Dodge FSM spec. 4500 PSI + 250 PSI = 4750 PSI convert to bat and that is 327.501 bar. Take a lot longer before I fall under 293 bar. So in a nutshell... Dodge FSM specs are 293 bar Minimum, Set pop is 310 bar. Then maximum is 327 bar. Closer you are to 300 bar more fuel but smokey. Closer you are to 320 bar the cleaner exhaust but less fuel. Even with my set up and Quadzilla I can get it to pull the tires loose on my truck with just CANBus fuel now. No wire tap.

Injection lines come out in groups of 3. Front batch which is 1, 2, and 4. Then the rear set is 3, 5, and 6. No need to even mess with the line clamps.

Some where around 200k I fed my turbo a hose clamp and destroyed the compressor wheel had it rebuilt. Ran it till I got the HX35/40 hybrid rebuild that and still going on that turbo. 422k miles and still spooling great.

Exactly what I got. Your old Edge EZ boost fooler you can keep its good for 35 to 38 PSI of boost with the Quadzilla. More than enough for what you doing.

The simplest way to look at timing. The more your retard timing under power the quicker the turbo will spool. This is due to the fact the fuel is lit off late so the burning flame front is more so pushing out the exhaust manifold and spinning the turbine up. Now if you advance the timing the flame front is started in the cylinder as the piston is still coming up. Giving more time for the fuel to heat in the cylinder turning to vapor, to BANG! Being more of the flame front is consumed in the cylinder the cylinder walls typically get a bit warmer pushing the oil temp upward. Most of the flame is spent and this is why with advanced timing the EGT's fall. It's a balance between good retardation that gives that good down low spool then enough advancement to consume all your fuel before getting the exhaust stroke. Going in deep now... I use engine load and engine oil temperature to manage timing placement. Like if I over advance my oil temp will rise upward to about 190°F to 195°F but like now with my knowledge my oil temp floats around 170°F. Even while under WOT and high EGT's (1,200 to 1,400°F) this give me more buffer room for standing on it longer before oil temp cannot protect the pistons. When I unwind again and come back to cruise state I can see the slight rise in oil temp but in a few miles it will settle back to ~170°F roughly. Now as for timing if your going the wrong direction the engine load will RISE. If it does rise then you need to reverse your timing. If your advancing too much the engine load will rise due to what know as negative torque. This is when the piston is still travelling towards TDC and you inject too early the fuel heats, vaporizes, then starts to burn before TDC occurs and now the expanding fuel is push again the upward moving piston making "negative torque" till it breaks over TDC. This does show up as a higher engine load and is counter productive. If the timing is too retarded the injection event, vapor to bang occurs too late and the expanding gases are not build pressure enough to do the work. This also shows as high engine loads but... There is an audible difference retarded timing that is too deep will be like no injection knock at all it dead quiet. Over advanced will be tinny and fairly louder injection knock. Way too far advanced the engine will start to buck and miss. This occurred to me in the fall of the year. This is due to the fact cetane went UP. Fuel ignition quality went up and requires LESS advancement. This why I was shifting downward -2° across the board. Now that I'm down to winterized fuel with a start for 13° at 1.5k RPM its down low it will dig in and pull like a crazed mule. Stock ECM with IAT signal when the IAT drops below 80°F it adds like a full +3° to +4° hence why stock ECM software get poor MPG through the winter. As you seen I RETARDED my timing as cetane went up, not ADVANCED! So all you with a Quadzilla Adrenaline don't bother trying to figure in IAT temps alone. Figure against your load, speed, cetane of fuel your using, etc. Colder IAT temps don't help MPG at all. Colder the air becomes as winter sets in for me I'll have to advance again. (Hua?!) Yup. Being cetane rose during the warm weather it ignites super easy now it over advanced. But now have super cold day like -20°F to -40*F outside the IAT will drop to about +20°F for my truck at that point I'll have to advance the timing again (+1° across the board) slightly because I need more time to heat the fuel, to get it to vapor, then go bang! Keep in mind the higher cetane is lower the BTU's per gallon. As you see I'm based more about cetane and the conditions I run in. It more about matching timing to cetane and it requirements than IAT as a solo value. Colder the air becomes in the cylinder the more timing you'll need... Then warmer the air becomes the less timing you'll need vs. cetane of your fuel. Too cold of air will retard the ignition timing. This why some of us use winter fronts to block out the super cold air. REMEMBER! - More cetane booster or anti-gel product you use RETARD even more! As cetane rises the ignition will occur quicker. Again higher cetane is LOWER BTU's! Less power per gallon of fuel. Like my summer tune I can float 23° at 2k RPM's. Now in this stage of winter with temps between +20°F and 40°F with Winterized #2 Diesel I came down to 19° to 20° at 2k cruise state. Get down into minus weather I'll most likely add +1° across the board. Just remember you trying to HEAT the diesel fuel to flash point at the right time as the piston is just about ready to break over TDC and be fully expanding gases pushing on the piston with little flame front left on the exhaust stroke. (Reduced EGT's and maximize MPG!) My special condition. Being I'm using 7 x 0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar. There is a bit of retarding in the injectors being the VP44 needs slightly more pressure to open the injectors. (4,500 @ 310 bar vs. 4,640 @ 320 bar) about a 1° retarded. Few things... Bigger than stock injectors will require some advancement to timing. Injectors that are wore out typically will be advanced already being they open at a much lower pressure. High cetane is actually quicker to ignite but lower in BTU's per gallon. Should retard timing when using high cetane. Higher than 310 bar injector pop pressure will retard timing, dropping below 293 bar will advance timing but make the fuel droplets bigger.

Paid way too much for it. Last injection pump I did was $1,328 with labor installed. VP44 was a Bosch Certified which did run the Bosch 815 test stand so I know it was a good pump. Actually this case the first pump I got was defective. (First one ever!) Sad part was that job I just about lost my left hand right finger when I punch the fan blade trying to pull the VP44 gear. (Downed me for 2 weeks) Still in all I do the job for about $600 less. Only takes me typically about 2 hours (@ $85 for labor) to do a VP44 being slow and relaxed. I don't know were these shop are getting these high hours to change a pump. Or... Marking up the pump beyond $1,100 which is about average price.

Anytime I do a heater core it always gets flushed out and new coolant. Rather dumb to put the old stuff back and still all the debris in the block to just fill the heater core up with debris. Like doing a engine rebuild and putting the old oil back in. Doesn't make any sense... Coolant system should of been flushed before even installing. So now when your done you just fill with fresh coolant and water and your done.

Actually it was a very funny evening. The first time I've been dressed up for Halloween in like 35 years. Stopped by Eileen daughter place hung out for a bit with her friends then went on to Kuna ID where Eileen best friend and her friends got together. Then started playing "Cards Against Humanity". Now things got stupida and crazy. People just laughing till it hurt. Finally got back to the motel at around 1am. I've got a photo on my phone showing the time change. Two 1:30am's... Yeah I had a good time and got a weekend off... Now I'm ready for the next week... But not really...

just like @IBMobile to spit that out...

I'm talking about PenzOil Syncromesh. It does not meet the synthetic spec.

Might need replacement if it wasn't flushed before installing. Now all the crude is jammed it the tubes.

Eileen and I got it to costume and enjoyed a Halloween party in Kuna ID last night... Hope you all enjoyed your evening...

Give me some time ill figure out a way to explain better.

Both Nv4500 and NV5600 should be using synthetic fluids. Be aware syndromes is not synthetic. Good reason why NV5600 has bearing issues.

Typically 150 to 160°F out of my center vents. The biggest thing is keeping coolant flushed and changed well before 100k miles.

Myself.. I opted for the ISSPro EV2 gauges. They are electronic and USB programmable. Since the sensors are all under the hood there is no worry about tubing breaking or leaking in the cab. I had a bracket built for the sensors being mounted on the fender protecting the fuel pressure sensor from water hammer damage. Nice low pressure warning light. Now you don't even have to look at the gauges I know what is wrong just by level the red dot is in my corner of my eye. Boost is set for 45 PSI warning light, fuel pressure is set for 13 PSI, Pyrometer is set for 1,200*F, and my trans temp is set for 225*F. There is optional relay function too so if you got a automatic you could use the trans temp gauge to turn on a aux fan.

Be aware there is vendors that sell VP44 without actually being fully rebuilt and bench tested on a Bosch 815 test stand. If so during the 3 hours its ran on the bench it would fail the test for timing and WILL NOT flash the PSG. Hence why I checked out who does build pumps correctly.