Mopar1973Man

I'm going to have to say my gut feeling is your APPS sensor isn't right in calling IDLE mode from the validation switch. I know we unplugged it and checked butt we haven't replaced it to verify your current APPS.

Empty tank is a awkward thing to work with but empty its very easy to handle. I just replaced my fuel sender last month took about an hour to drain the tank into buckets, unbolt the tank, drop it down and then install the new sender and re-install.

There is two bus connections if you look at the wire map. There is the CCD bus then there is SCI bus that only access the PCM and ECM. Double check those connections. Beyond that there is only power and ground. +12V at pin 16 GND at pin 5 GND at pin 4 CCD at pins 3 and 11 SCI at pins 6, 7 and 14

Just to point out something. When you measuring temperatures between devices. Anything that creates heat is a loss of power. Part of the work energy that is created into heat is a bad sign meaning your pushing too hard, ratios are wrong or just plan abusing the truck. When you start looking at efficiency and heat reduction its about reduction inefficiency when you do you'll find everything runs cooler in result without the need of coolers. Just in what I figure out in tuning I managed to reduce the engine oil temps 20 to 30 degree (165 o 175*F) typically. Then transmission temps fell when I reduced the tire size to 30 inch. Better final ratio even affected the engine oil temps again too. So as you weed out the drag anf inefficiencies then the rest falls in place. You could jump to Mobil 50 as well. That is like 90 weight. I'm running brass syncros and carbon fiber both. (1st and 2nd carbon fiber and 3rd, 4th, and 5th are brass). I'm using the very same fluid used in 10 speed Eaton Fuller transmissions. More on the gear lube comment. Normal 80w-90 gear lube is typically GL-5 which will damage the brass or carbon fiber syncros. This is why both NV4500 and NV5600 require a GL-4 transmission fluid. Both transmission should be running a synthetic transmission fluid. Just going to PenzOil page and checking it doesn't list as a synthetic fluid and the technical data sheet is not available. I know its not listed as a GL-4 fluid because it TOO THIN! Hence why it can't be classed as GL-4 fluid... Straight from Pennzoil Page. Viscosity chart...

Last firewood haul I did on Sunday (October 4, 2020)... Level as you can get with 2 cords of red fire in the trailer. Now if you have a 2 inch leveling kit and then hitched up the rear will pull down that 3 to 4 inches and the nose will appear to be high and the tail swatting. Really common out here lot of people do the lift kits but then when hauling a trailer their headlight are in your face in lo or hi beam mode. That the only part I really hate about lift or leveling kits.

Back when I was using the Mopar fluids it would run a full 100k miles on the factory fluid. I just can't see the 27 dollar a quart price tag any longer. Switch over to the Mobil 50 SAE GL-4 and change interval is now reduced to 50k-75k miles roughly. It darkens quick. When the fluid is dark the material in the oil is spent. As for glitter or metals I only had that issue with the pilot bearing fell out and ruined the input shaft bearing and filled the case with glitter. Even with my temp probe in the PTO cover I rare to reach above 160*F trans temp on the highway. Even hauling the RV to Arizona I only got to 200*F in the desert heat (100 to 110*F) on a long grade pull (15 plus miles long 6-7%). Rest of the time it would settle back to 160 to 170*F for normal flat ground. This is partially because I went down in my tire size to 30 inch tires and increase the final ratio reducing stress on the transmission. Like yesterday came out with 2 cords of firewood and after a about 25 mile hike out forest I barely made 160*F. Still to this day no coolers and still running Mobil 50.

Some of the hardware store have a good amount of weird things like rubber grommet and o-rings. You might try even NAPA stores some them have grommets and o-rings as well.

Problem is the bed lift you need at least a good 1 to 2 feet clearance to lift the sender basket out. Once the sender ring is loosen it will stand up even more being the spring will push up. Now the total length of the sender will require that 1 to 2 foot clearance ti lift out without damage the sender float arm.

Contact glue would work but lightly. Same thing as the headliner. Might even find some sort of fabric like headliner that is foam backed and rather durable for the arm rest. You never know.

True. I just did one for a customer here locally and managed to squeeze out the hydro booster. Then split it open and replaced the seals. Then reinstalled. I will admit it was my first time of doing and there is a few then to be careful of... Like there is a small piece in the body which will most likely drop out when you split the body. Direction of that valve is important. Other than that the seal on the output shaft needs to be resealed most of the time. Total time for me was 3 hours. This is refilled and priming the system as well.

Might try removing the rubber grommet and then use a bit of sealant like seal-all or silicone (light amounts). Then reassemble and see if that works. If the rubber is truly gone and rotten then you might have to hit the part number books in the article section hunt down the part number for it and then do a web search for that part number and see what pops up.

I would verify that the lift pump is indeed making some pressure. Typically we suggest 14 to 20 PSI at the VP44 injection pump for proper operation. If your lift pump died it will never refill the system without some pressure to push it up to the injection pump. You can bump the starter to get the prime circuit running for 20 seconds.Then at the VP44 there is a cap and schraider (sp?) valve. Depress the little pin to see if the pump is work it should blow the air out and start squirting low pressure diesel fuel. If the pump is not working replace... Now crack 1, 3, and 4 injection lines and crank till the fuel is seen from those and close. Then once close it should start on the 1, 3 and 4 lines and help push the rest of the air out of the system. Do not use starting fluid. If you have to use starting fluid first unhook the grid heaters. Then when you use it just a very small blast will be needed. Large amounts can cause engine damage. If the grid heater are not unhooked could result in a explosion.

Yup like most. Start short. Now when you launch the pedal should be full engaged before the middle of the pedal stroke. Sooner the better from the floor. Again you don't want to over extend the bearing past the fingers of the pressure plate. Start short and add 1/2 turn to the head and re-pin. If your engaging early near the floor like 1/4 of the travel is great.

Correction its a 4 speed auto transmission 47RE in a 2000. An automatic transmission is weak in stock form. Personally I would go from the Bank to Quadzilla this way you have control of timing for MPG purpose and then you can write a good light defuel curve to launching with an auto to prevent damage. You can start off with a fair amount of defuel and then grow it up on the upper end preventing transmission damage. This is not possible with a Banks tuner. Banks is a canned tuner designed for stock injectors and stockish timing. Like my "Economy Tune" start off light and keep the power down till about 12 PSI of boost then by 15 PSI my wire tap can kick in for added power but done cleanly no smoke. Being I've managed to shear off 5th gear at 80 MPH. But the wire tap is so high that I never reach wire tap in normal driving. You can tune the timing in and gain upwards of about 2 to 4 MPG if done properly. Most canned tuners are designed strictly for stock injectors. Now adding larger injectors typically you have to start advancing timing. Quadzilla Adrenaline 180 HP DAP 150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) BHAF HX35/40 Hybrid turbo 4 inch Diamond Eye exhuast NV4500 Transmission 3.55 Gears with 245 tires with a final ratio of 3.69:1 to the pavement. 422k miles and clocking!

Simpler and cheap... Mayo jar and piece of tubing... Being using this for over 18 years never had any air issues.

Did you install ARP studs?

Done wore the entire door panel and arm rest out on my truck years ago. I need to pull the fabric and replace it and add some padding below.

First I would hose that with spray lube of some sort, PB blaster, etc. Typically I would reach up from the bottom with a impact gun and hit the trigger for a short burst in remove, and then rewverse and drive it back in. Then reverse and again to remove. Each time rocking the bolt back and forth brings a bit of lube to the threads. Growing slightly longer runs each pass. Might add more spray too as I go depending on the bolts. Not broke any bolts there yet. Just did a 4" inch diamond eye exhaust for local gal with a 2001 Dodge. Impact gun is a key part of success its the hammering that helps when straight pull with a ratchet will typically break the bolt.

Just easier to change the fluid when it time and use a magnet on the PTO cover that picks up the very same metal without a filter. Hmmm....

They are a pain to set up where you back off completely. So the rod is it shortest more or less. Then keep adding till the release is just barely at the top of the pedal. This is correct. Adding more beyond this takes a huge risk of hyper extending the bearing through the pressure plate fingers. Lot of adjust, re-pin, test, re-adjust, re-pin, test. Best off with the old school stock hydros. No adjustment and no need to adjust. I'm even running dual disc Valair clutch too. No issues.

Random surging at idle is not a Quadzilla issues. At idle there is no Quadzilla control it should be all ECM at idle. Once you let off the throttle and the RPM drop below 1,200 the ECM takes over and Quadzilla is in standby.

Do you have ARP studs installed?

Oh yeah flush the power steering system every 30k miles. Yes there is rebuild kits for just about everything on these truck nothing is throw away.

89 inch / pound on the injector hold down. This is not tighten first. The cross over tube is first to center the injector first. Once the cross over tube snugged up you can do the injector hold down.

Nope. I dont suggest adjustable hydros. Most people over adjust and hyper extend the throw out bearing in the the pressure plate causing damage to both. Ive used NAPA master and slave for years. Always worked great. The other one that is super solid is the Autozone master and slave which are aluminum bodies not plastic.