Mopar1973Man

Could save a bunch of money and just get the seal kit for the booster. I think is 39 dollars for the hydro booster kit from Pirate Jacks. I'm still using the OEM brake master at 422k miles. I flush the system every 30k miles. Still working fine.

Looking at your avatar as well seeing over sized tires. Make sure you NOT using a quick ratio box. If your box is failing because of binding up then I say replace it. Only use a standard ratio steering box. This will lessen the load on the steering box. Steering boxes are super easy to rebuild too and some of the companies like Ryan @Blue-Top Steering has kits to rebuild our boxes or just send yours in and he'll rebuild it and send it back. As for the power steering pump if the pump is wiped out. While you have it apart I would consider doing the vacuum pump rebuild too. The landlord at my other shop just lost the steering column bearing in his Dodge. You can run your hand down the cab side and rock the wheel and feel it popping in the shaft.

Give him a call I guess I figured if I tagged him he would respond but it seems he's busy these days. Head over to his forum section and his contact info is listed. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Check the CCD network voltage. There should be 2.49 volts and 2.51 volts in reference to ground.

Give @Dynamic a shout and talk to him.

Ok another thought do you ever reach 195 to 197°Fworth of coolant? Cold engines will amp up idle. As coolant goes down it adds idle RPM. Might need just a thermostat.

Unplug and then start. Not good to break connection while powered up. Then shutdown and hook up then clear the codes

I would consider the APPS because its NOT in idle mode. When in idle mode it ignores the APPS signal and uses the ECM software. Being your APPS is still throttling mode its following the voltage hence why it never reaching 800 RPM. Unplug the APPS it should force ECM idle being no signal is provided. It will trip a code for p0122 again.

Thank you for the kind words.

This is why I say do the job right. Look at the evaporator its covered in debris. The heater core is showing signs of leaking too. See now you rebuilt the entire system and the heater works better and the A/C will be nice and cold to meet you in the spring of the year. Everyone of the evaporator I've pull range from lightly covered to densely covered faces. Anyways afterwards I always get comments about the better air flow and better heating and cooling performance. Hence why I will not suggest any heater core change out short cut. Not to mention there is no filter system to prevent that either. It would have to be a paper filter of some sort to stop all thje small particles sticking to the face like yours. Evaporator sweats and stay wet while the A/C or DEF is running. It will collect dust and debris then dries off later to hang on to it. Just best to pull everything servicing and clean like you did and move on for 5 to 7 years and do it again.

Gotta ask do you have oversize tires on your truck? Any lift kits or leveling kits? If so stock value wheel alignment will not work. Custom values have to be made to work with altered geometry of the front axle.

Weird... Idle should be 800 RPM period. I wonder if the crank sensor on your truck is tired? Any other error codes? (If any).The only time this is above 800 RPM is when the APPS switches to THROTTLING then the idle software is shut off. This would cause the high idle. I've got to ask again another weird one Stock APPS of Timbo's APPS? A bad APPS with the throttle line still grounded would make it idle high and low engine load. Could be a possible an error code for APPS possibly? This is common for someone that has tapered with the voltage. I would replace the APPS with a Timbo APPS but that's me.

320 bar is where I'm at 100k miles roughly and 7 to 11% engine load at idle and perfect 800 RPM still (+/-5 RPM). 310 bar is what the stock injectors and RV275 are popped too. 305 bar is what most injectors builder like to use but at the cost of shorter longevity and more fuel flow. 300 bar is another I've seen on some injectors where looking for more fuel flow. 293 bar is the bottom limit set by Bosch for injectors. 280 bar typically you start hitting close to 0% engine load. 260 bar the idle will be close to 850 to 875 RPM and engine load of zero.

Now 310 bar is 4,500 psi. So -250 psi from 4,500 psi is 4250 psi. Now when you convert that back to bar you'll get 293 bar. If you add the 250 psi and convert back to bar you'll have 327 bar. Information right out of the 2001 Dodge FSM.

Minimum pop pressure is 293 bar and its time to replace. This is why I don't like aftermarket injectors typically set below 310 bar which is stock. Then aftermarket builders know they can improve flow but at a cost of shorter life span. Hence why I popped at 320 bar, idle is 7% after close 100k miles.

Look at the VIN number chart and modify the new VIN to what you want.

Photo please... I wanna see.

No longer capable of setting timing correctly in the given time. It will run still but the economy and power will be poor. Timing piston is more or less jammed and not moving properly any longer hence the code. More or less on a gas engine like taking the vacuum advance off a distributor and taking out the fly weights. Then set the distributor to a retarded timing and drive that. Power is low and economy is poor.

Post up your tune your running on the Quad. I'm behind you with 150 HP injectors and run completely clean. The biggest factor is too many are trying to build low down power but tend to be too advanced in timing on the 1,500 RPM band. As the cetane here is rising because winters coming I've been retarding timing because the bucking is starting to show up as cetane rises the ignition quality goes up, less timing is needed. To clean up smoke you need a good retard curve to spool quickly. Again people get to wrapped up in advancing timing they forget to retard enough to launch cleanly. Currently my economy tune is starting at 13° and work up +4.5 per band. I was so impress in this change that on level 2 yesterday climbing a 7% grade and managed to spin the tires free at mere 1,800 RPM and heavy throttle. This is due to the deep retard I built into the tune in the lower RPM range this place more flame on the turbine and spools quickly net results is the tires can't hold the torque... Now once the turbo is spun up then it kick back over to advanced timing and continues to power up more. Reaching 15 PSI of boost and the wire tap follows with more power and turbo is already spun good and just continues to build more power. I've got to ask another important question what sized tires are you running? This is a huge factor if power gets out or not. If your final ratio (after tires) is lower than 3.55 then your power is trapped in the driveline and transmission. Tire sizes and gear ratio make a huge impact on power and performance. Like Myself I've got 3.55 gears in and running 245/75 R16 tires. This comb creates a final ratio of 3.69:1 to the ground after tires. Hence my power is place to the road not to the transmission. Don't ask... I've manage to create enough power last year to break the teeth off the 5th gear at 80 MPH.

Timbo APPS has no voltage to set. It's fully mechanical APPS and no electronics. Stock APPS requires the voltage to be correct for the IVS (Idle Validation Switches). The voltage is used to tell the ECM if the driver is THROTTLING or IDLING. When it in the IDLING state the APPS sensor is igniored and the ECM software is used to set the 800 RPM. Once the voltage rises past the idle state then the ECM is told to listen to APPS sensor value. OEM APPS sensor has electronics in it to tell the ECM what to do.

Boost fooler is not working correctly. CCD Network issues.

Rebuild kits are cheap. For RV275 injectors that HX35W will work fine.

I never done anything per se to dress up my truck. The only thing I've done is kept my engine bay clean. When a leak occurs find it and stop it. Wash down the engine when I wash the truck. Lately I need to do that more really. Pretty dirty. Typically I don't bother with a bunch of paint or dress up. Just keeping it clean is just a big crowd pleaser for most. When you own a 18 year old truck and its still clean under the hood and in the cab. Most people are shock when I open that hood and there is a clean stock looking engine.

Airbag light is most likely the clockspring in the steering column. Again the clockspring takes care of the cruise functions. It's a variable voltage. Say like 1 volt does one function, 2 volts does another, etc. There is 5 volts in that line but the cruise sends back different voltage message for each function. Transfer case is easy just remove from the truck and split the case open and seal the mating faces again. Then there is a front seal and a rear shaft seals just pull the out and replace. Make sure there there is no wore groove in the shafts. Fly by wire cruise basically the throttle signal is sent from the PCM directly to the ECM. No vacuum motor used being there is no automatic transmission with a Throttle Valve (TV) to pull. Since the only reason for vacuum direct cruise is the automatic transmission. Now if the PCM is the wrong one it will send out on the 4 wire plug. there is roughly 50 some odd software version per year for the PCM. Wrong software on just one module makes all kind of weird issues. Both the ECM and PCM should be matching years and should be matching VIN wise too... I know several have done swaps of modules but it has to be done right. I've used Auto Computer Specialist to get my PCM replaced after my alternator fried it. Provided me correct VIN number and even proper software for my year, make and model. They even have a harness repair there too so you could send in your harness and have it repaired like new!

Please do... Articles really do help a bunch of folk to just read what it took to make the upgrade or project...