Mopar1973Man

BEWARE... Tire conversation. That's because of the wider tires. That spreads your axles weight out over larger square inch surface. Like walking on a weak roof you throw down a sheet of plywood to spread your weight over the trusses. This making it easy for the truck to spin on grass or slick, or climbing... I will say "Wider Tires" will make the tires float on top of mud better because of the spreading of weight. But for traction narrower tires bite better for offroading. To this day I've climbed some steep hills, and did well. Another way to look at it... You go outside into the snow and steep in the deep snow you sink right in. Now throw on snow shoes you can walk on top of the snow. Just spreading the weight out so the soft ground doesn't depress... Typical axle weights...(Roughly) Front - 4,3xx to 4,5xx Rear - 2,8xx to 3,2xx Another tidbit I'm also open diff both front and rear. Rare to slip a tire with what I've played in the tire game between 215, 235, 245, and 265s. I would say the 265 were horrid for offroading tend to spin too much. As for the 235's those were awesome bites right in and held good for even dragging full size truck up the bank. 245's not a lot of experience offroad as of yet but soon. Then on my lil 96 Dodge I've got the 215's and those climb really good! Rare to even spin or get stuck. Another secret. I've shown this to several people and it works. If you trying to cross old crusty snow. Wide tires are best but even narrow tires can do it with a twist. If I back over the snow I'm dragging the most weight across the soft snow or mud. When you drive forward the weight of the Cummins will drive the front axle down and sink it. Again for soft ground (mud) the wider tires are best. Snow on the highway, narrow is best for highway traction. Again small patch of tire will push down to the asphalt easier to bite. I'm considering going up with a nicer set of wheels but I know it going to require a wider face tire like 265 to 285. But I'm going to keep my 30 inch size. Aluminum wheels... I'm about 200 feet above the road below... 4 wheel drive and climb the face. (235's)

APPS sensor if it goes out of range at all then it would instantly "Dead Pedal" then ignore the wild signal then set the P0121, P0122 or P0123 code(s). All you got to do is watch the TPS value on a Quadzilla or Live Data tool and see if you can reach full 100%. I do see the P0122 code but that is low volt value. We do have Timbos APPS here...

All good...

Just figured on showing how so if anyone reading had an idea for a club they can start one. Management is very simple and you can handle you own members.

Toss me a support ticket and I'll get after this till we get it fixed...

Well just depends on the "Chickens" we are talking about...? "Fowl Language" might get you in enough trouble you might get the boot from @JAG1. Might have to have a camp out where we roast chickens in the camp fire you never know. A Little Chicken Porn....

Not like I'll be able to go the corner computer shop and buy that one chip and solder it back in. Poor vision and shakey hands never happen. Why I got to have @Me78569 do my solder work for the high idle kits. I tried back then and made a huge mess of one switch and turned it into trash. I even gave Me78569 my solder gun I had.

Sorry to hear your still trying to get a loan.

After doing a Pirate Jack rebuild kit it not hard to rebuild a hydrobooster. Just make sure you have all the time you need and be ready for small parts to drop out too. Took me 3 hours from start to finish on the first one I did. As for caliper sticking this is because the piston are most likely too big. After time and brake usage the pistons get hot and cool so the brake fluid cakes on the piston making it grow a bit. This is what causes hung calipers. Then the pistons can be removed and cleaned. Then drop check them in the caliper. With all seal out the piston should fall to the bottom without being pushed. If not there is caked brake fluid yet on the piston. I would suggest to make sure to change brake fluid every 30k miles. This is bad fluid and needed to be changed after 30k miles. The dark color is from the brake fluid absorbing moisture and starts to oxidize the metals and seals. hence the black tint or color to the fluid. You should see nice amber color fluid nothing dark in the reservoir.

Me personally I want to get on board with the spring and turn buckle. Just this HX35/40 has the wastegate in a tough spot.

I don't think its possible. You'll have to most likely pull the entire dash. The harness connector is down on the driver side. Once this and the ground wire in the driver side kick panel you should be able to pull it out. Just remember to remove the bottom steel bracket on the dash so it lifts off the steering column. Wiring wise everything unplugs. Now once the dash is out you'll see what is holding the fuse panel better. I've never could figure that one out being I've got huge hands and really tough being up-side-down under the dash trying to get pass all the wiring.

Asus S510U Nothing is burnt or loose. I do remember the laptop being in suspend mode last that I used it but left it. Then the battery slowly drained and at the last moment I figured it came back on to shutdown completely. Didn't make it so the battery drain out as it did the voltage dropped and the current went up. Something in the power supply circuit failed. No charge light, no charge in the battery, no power to the motherboard. Two different power packs. nope. Fried... Still haven't replaced it yet. One a personal note because of my vision going south I've not been able to work with my phone very much any more just can't read the small print any longer. So I do most of my work on the desktop PC. Nice large screen and keyboard. Even though I go a Samsung S10+ phone the screen is good sized just the print at times is really tough to see.

Could of done the voltage drop test... Lot easier and no risk to the electric system with the disconnecting cables on running engine.

Just join the club you wish... Once joined you can post and so forth. After that point its the club owners controls. Anyone can create a club and run there own mini forum here. Like Travel Camping is owned by @JAG1 so he would be the Admin of that club. He would have ultimate control of who can be in the club. As you can see you can create many types of club. Even hidden clubs... No one can see. (Subscribing members) since that hidden clubs doesn't do anything for the site this is why its a subscriber option not a free member. You can even hire your own moderator or hand over the leader position to anyone you wish. Or if you have a troublesome user you can kick him out.

What year of truck? You might be still better off getting the error codes read with a tool. There is communication issues with the ECM. Does your gauges work?

Boost leak would be very loud. With that amount of loss. That large amount of boost lost you should hear it no problem. Compressor wheel damage would be loud too. Being I accidentally fed my turbo hose clamp years ago (Hose clamp fell into the BHAF). You can hear this happening. Boost was dropping and the compressor was making a LOT of racket. Needless to say the turbo quit making boost and the boost was mere 8 PSI by the time I got back home. Here is a piece of that hose clamp.

Basically in a nutshell the inflation is caused by a very weak US dollar. Democrats still continue preaching socialism. Free health care, free this, free that. Sorry someone has to pay for all this free everything. I already know this will not work at all. As for the inflation of prices like locally I bought 3 sheets of 3/4" OSB and its $35.88 a sheet after 3 sheets and a paint roller handle it was $120 dollars for the shelf board and paint roller handle. Locally... Now I'm force to travel either Boise or Lewiston for better prices. I can do really well in Ontario being there is no sales tax by the time your done shopping the taxes you saved could be your fuel money for the truck. Like right now I've got a few trades going on to get work done. I've made a deal with the local construction company to do his A/C work for him and then have him do the dirt work on the yard. I had another deal set up for firewood but come to find out my guy had bail out of the deal and left the valley. His own life got tight and had to move on for paying job. Like I talked to @Wet Vette told here things are not looking good. Time to invest mostly into the house and the ourselves for winter time. I've got one month left and now got to hump butt to get firewood done for the year. I've got to get at least 6 cords I figure for the winter. Currently have 1 cord. Now that the basement pantry is more or less done we need to stock it with food. Slow process. Things are starting to slow down out here. You can see it in the traffic and stores for the most part.

Yup your hung with 17's... Very tough size to get tires for. One of the reasons I've not opted towards 17's because of that tread puts you in wider and taller tires typically. 16's are more common place and have wider range of sizes yet. Just wheel selection can be limited too. should be 245/70 R17 vs 245/75 R16

Just for boost leaks answer... Just taking my truck I can build 47 to 49 PSI of boost. Now take the wastegate hose disconnect the wastegate and leave the hose OPEN not plugged. Now take one bolt out of the intake manifold. With these two open hose it is loud enough to be clearly heard in the cab. Now my loss... Only dropped like 7 PSI. I was still hitting 41 PSI of boost and smoke wasn't any different. EGT's about maybe 100*F higher. 10 PSI boost is telling me the engine is in defuel mode. MAP sensor code, etc. Hence why we need the error codes.

Oh... He's on track... As I replied... Not the tires... The final ratio. That the only way I can explain it is use the math I figure out on my own truck. But people with extremely low ratios are not going to gain anything. I've worked with several locally to fix oversized tires (low ratio). Too many are trying to build a lifted truck on 3.55 gears. Won't work. 4.10 gears is great for 35 or 37 inch tires. Problem as you add tires your adding rotational mass so asking for high MPG with heavy tires is impossible, won't happen. There will always be some loss to having larger tires. Another common mistake is thinking the odometer is still right after changing tires. (only if you had your ABS recalibrated). When you start mathing out 32" (285's) and above tires and looking at final ratios and wonder how to fix this problem. There is only 2 ways. Have the correct gears in the axles to build your big tire rig (4.10) or return to the proper ratio by coming back to stockish 31 inch tires. (265's or 285's - OK) Now the few that actually listened and tired a set of stock tires again find out the power is much better and pull strong again. Put oversize tires back on and BAM! MPG down, EGT up, and then lack of power comes again. I tried it on a few trucks Fords, Dodge and Chevy's too. I've seen truck run the rollers (dyno) and traded tires down and always had a improvement of HP/TQ to the dyno. I can care less about the size of tire really, It's the proper final ratio I try to get people back to. I'm actually looking to go a bit wider in tire but stay around the 30 inch. I'm trying to keep my final ratio but... I looking to enhance traction a bit more since I did improve power I've been loosing traction really easy. Snap 47 to 49 PSI of boost quick enough the rear tires can start slipping. Bad final ratio (only fix is to change tires back or change axle(s) to 4.10 gears) 37" tire on 3.55 is a final of 3.07 35" tire on 3.55 is a final of 3.21 Good final ratio 37" tire on 4.10 is a final of 3.71 35" tire on 4.10 is a final of 3.51 285/75 R16 on 4.10 is a final of 3.91 285/75 R16 on 3.55 is a final of 3.42 (bit low but OK!) A good 3.55 to 3.73 ratio not a problem easy to build good solid power and usable all the way up the RPM's. Quick to spool little smoke. So again its not the tires, I don't care... But if you asking to build clean power, lower EGT's, and good high MPG with big tires not that easy. You have to get the final ratio straighten out, then it will happen. I've been confronted with lots of 35's and 37's on 3.55 and just doesn't work...

Done the study to fin d out that was a fake cleaning. Cleaning the IAT will not improve MPG or fueling. Just check with a live data tool and see if the ECT and IAT both match at key on cold engine. No need for cleaning, etc. Now doing the work with Quadzilla if the IAT falls below 80*F then the timing will advance about +4 degrees. This why I do not suggest cold air intake while warmer air (100 to 140*F) is the optimal for economy numbers.

Does effect the way they run. Being our truck are mechanical pump still (electronic controlled) and the injectors are mechanical all you need to have is wore our VP44 and wore out injectors and most likely will not get good MPG numbers. Injectors are only good for about 100k ot 150k at best. Then VP44 are on average about 200k to 250k with most of us. Now take a injector that is like my stock OEM from new at 150k miles dropped to 260 bar and dropped nearly -4 MPG. Just because the injectors where popping at 260 bar. Still ran great but spray was too thick. Not a thin mist but bigger droplets. Now most of the droplet is wasted in smoke production. Then if you have VP44 that is wore out and timing piston is not working correctly then MPG's is lost too. Just remember more boost means more fuel being burned. My average boost at 65 MPH is 2 PSI (550°F to 600°F EGTs)... My average boost at 80 MPH is 5 to 7 PSI (750°F to 800°F EGTs). I suggest you reduce your working load first. The EGT's will fall as well. Drag causes boost to occur reduce the drag and the boost will fall and so will EGT's. Even towing my EGT's are controlled and never cross 1,200°F with cruise set at 65 MPH that includes grades up to 6 and 7%. No problems. Still boost averages very low at 8 to 10 PSI on the flat towing. Made less than 25 PSI towing on grades typically.

65 MPH you should be closer to 2,000 RPM. Its the lower band like 1,500 and 2,000 that build MPG. You starting too high and not enough spread. With those big tires you should be starting out at 13° or 14° you need to be able to spool the turbo quickly. Then the low timing reduct should be like @Threadzy said but I would try the 50% but raise it next time to 60%. Need more retard for large tires. Take lot of energy to move large flywheels (37 inch tires).The 4.10 gears are optimal. Remember for every ONE pound of rotational mass you ditch is like EIGHT pounds off the frame. Hence why lot of guys went towards the single piece aluminum driveshaft. Shed the rotational mass weight to gain more to the ground. I work at removing as much rotational drag and weight drag to gain the most power. Then when you do add power to already reduced drag truck more power comes out with little need for big fuel. Then the economy comes out like it should. There is only so much tuning your going to be able to cover up the big tires and will always come at the price of lower MPG. The higher you stand in the wind more drag there is above 55 MPH. Above 55 MPH is all about aerodynamics. So with your setup I would reduce your driving speed a bit more if you can. Even my economy tune is more about the 1,500 and 2,000 bands where you spend the most time. Like Myself I would start you at 13° and step up +4 which would give 17° then cruise timing of +2° which would be 19° at 2,000 RPM. Starting at 16° you can't get spooled at all that high. Make sure to set the load based timing for 3°. I never really study the 2,500 or 3,000 because so little time is spent there. 99% at 1,500 to 2,000 is cruise state typically. Unless I84 at 80 MPH now I consider the 2,500 RPM band but rare at best for me now.

Backwards. HX40 compressor wheel and HX35 turbine shaft which is stronger shaft than the HX40. Hence this combo gives the effect of HX40 compressor with the stornger shaft of the HX35. Which is nearly the same of HE351.

There is the problem. Final ratio is too low and the vehicle is standing up in the wind extra foot now. The only thing I could suggest is either... 1. Return it all back to stock and remove the lift. Reset the tires back to stock to gear the gear ratio correct. 2. Change for 4.10 gears and this will cost a pretty penny last bid I seen up in McCall ID for was $4,000 for both axles to be swapped to 4.10 gears. Basically you have a final gear ratio like 3.20:1 to the ground and adds huge amounts of engine load and heat. Oh just to show you what tires can do. Now your on 35 inch tires and empty barely getting 10 to 12 MPG. Now I run a 30 inch tire 245/75 R16 no lift. I can drag my 31 foot Jayco RV which scales out at 17,300 gross combined pounds and still getting 14 MPG. So you added a 3 inch lift and 35 inch tires ruined the final ratio and create a drag equal if not worse than my RV being towing behind you virtually. I'm only 18 feet less than a normal semi truck and trailer. Optimal final ratio to the ground should be 3.55 to 3.73 to 1 to the ground. Below 3.40 ratio to the ground is going to increase engine load and consume more fuel. 66 MPH = 2.000 RPM (Typically see 20 MPG empty) 82 MPH = 2,500 RPM (Hi Marked 21 MPG empty) Being you have a Smarty I would opt to get the unlock dongle and get to tuning that software.