Mopar1973Man

You made the first 100k miles. @dripleybeen to the moon and back. (487k miles). I'm right behind him with my truck at 424k miles. Another ~50k miles to get home from the moon. Getting to the moon is 238k miles. Moon and back is 487k. Around the world is barely 50k miles.

Mine the bolt for the ground came loose.

WiFi should be stronger signal. At least my WiFi here reaches across the yard nearly to the fence. But alas I'm Android and use bluetooth... Merry Christmas... ive gotta get back to trans service...

The Bluetooth for me is about 20 to 30 feet distance. I've also cut the bluetooth head lead and extended into the cab this gave even more distance being there is glass windows to transmit out of version trying to transmit through the hood metal. Bluetooth head is just under my my shift tower plastics. Yeah it even snowing today and its cold out too.

Kind of nice to be inside the house and monitor the truck as it warms up a bit and I can finish a bit of web work before I leave for work... I just had to share this I don't know if most of you know this trick. Yuo can see the truck is just outside the window. My cellphone is on my desktop.

I seated my studs into the bottom of the hole then backed off just slightly. I didn't want it be wedged tighten after another 300k miles somewhere around 700k miles next time.

I found a few just under a 100 dollars.

Yeah when I did the mine there was no 1/4 or 1/2 turn stuff. I know the final torque was 125 foot/pounds for ARP 425 studs.

Nice. Could you write an article on how you built that exactly. I would love to have a cheap test stand for 24V injectors!

Most of the pups out here play hard go get there truck sloppy with mud and never wash it. After a awhile the salt gets into the mud and accelerates the rusting process. Just about keeping the truck clean of mud and all drain holes open and flowing. Less water can stand in the bottom of the rocker panels the better off you are. Old story but when we moved to Idaho we only had the 1973 Dodge Charger and the 1978 Dodge Magnum XE. On the Magnum had a drain hole plug with body sealant. So the rocker panel on the driver side just below the rear window glass was rusting out. I had a excellent body man next door. He crease the metal so it was stepped and not sure what kind of fastener or glue he used but no welding. This is the best way to do it so there is no burnt metal that will rot from inside out.

Sorry for the theme breaking the site. As for the oil pressure building mine does the same thing in the morning on cold starts. Rattles just for a moment till oil pressure builds. I normally just let it idle for a good 2 minutes before getting moving on sub zero mornings. Once its had some time to pump oil then I just get rolling and go easy till it builds more heat.

Ummm... Better move north and check out the weather up here. Being subzero is common place in New Meadows. At least once a year you'll get a week of minus weather just about every year. Just a couple of days ago I just saw -2*F driving to New Meadows, ID.

This was caused by not doing fluid flushes every 30k miles. As brake fluid ages the fluid takes on moisture. It's a hygroscopic fluid which means it will absorb moisture from the air. As the moisture is absorbed over time the boiling point of the fluid is reduced so brake fade happens sooner, and the moisture starts to rot the rubber lines and seals on top of oxidizing the metals inside all the brake system. Like you the proportioning valve had failed because of corrosion of the metals.

Just torqued mine and never thought about it again. No metal clips I left them out.

Like me up here the salt is killing trucks left and right. I've been using waste oil and spraying up in the body structure as much as a I could. Keeping the mud washed out of all the body drain is critical to good life.

@JAG1to start it and @IBMobile is there to shut it down. With a good joke!

Bosch are not as easy to rebuild. ND alternators are super simple to rebuild.

Need a new blower motor and blower resistor.

Cardboard in between the rad and cooler is dangerous. Your preventing air flow over the internet cooler. Under boost it could get hot in the manifold. Why I cover the grill not in between coolers.

I've got two Auto Trans 2nd Gen's in the yard right now. I'll go take a peak later on when the sun comes up.

All I'm using is a NAPA heater core nothing special. The aluminum style with the adjustable tubes. I'm only using a 190°F NAPA thermostat and no other mods to the cooling system. Like today I will remember to install my winter fronts. 160°F to 170°F out of the center vents. Running NAPA green anti-freeze mixed 50/50. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRZNH9010015?partTypeName=Heater+Core NAPA ain't so bad when it cooking you out of the cab.

Might be heavier in weight total but more durable to road salt, and oxidizing agents that they spray on the highway. My stock aluminum mags were badly pitted and then cracked from all the heavy hauling I did. I swapped back to the early 2nd Gen factory steel wheels holding up much better and being the aluminum mag were 16 x 8 and the steel wheels are 16 x 7 they fit the 245's much better.

PCM is damaged. I've got a protection fuse mod to stop this issues. Still need to send the PCM in for repair. The blue wire should be +12V after crank signal is sensed. Then the green wire should be variable ground after crank signal sensed. My alternator shorted out and burned a hole right through the PCM's printed circuit board. @pepsi71oceanhad the same failure and his was repairable through @Auto Computer Specialist. The PCM master fuse is a 20A fuse. The problem is the circuit board can barely handle 5 to 7 amps before burning up. Hence the article was wrote up to stop the PCM damage. I'm running a 5A fuse and still going strong.

Change in the HVAC case layout.

Can't say that I have. It is strange it should throw a code if the circuit shorted or open.