Mopar1973Man

Like when I did mine I only used a sharpen putty knife to light scrap off the gasket material. Then checked with a straight edge and make sure there was no material left to cause a high spot. Used a vacuum cleaner to suck up all the little bits of gasket material. Then using compressed air blow the cylinders out good making sure there is no material in the cylinders.

I tried the overfill for one run on Mobile 50 (5 quarts). Nothing gained for me. I went back to standard 1 gallon fills (4 quarts). No coolers still but Trans Temps are always low. The only time I seen high temps ever was that long grade pull on White Bird grade in 115*F weather. Then the long grade pull to Ely, NV heading up to 7,000 feet. again both run topped out at 200 to 220*F My ISSPro is set for 220 warning light. I've only seen it ONCE! Period. Never seen it again after dropping from 235/85 R16 to 245/75 R16 tires. Final ratio makes a HUGE difference on transmission temps. Even my last pull. 160*F max transmission temp climbing around in the back country. No faster than 20 to 30 MPH. No wind for cooling and no coolers. No heat problems. 7 x 12 trailer and 2 cords plus on the trailer.

Edge Comp and stock injectors. Towing a customers truck home to him. This is over 6 year ago. Neither do I... Being Valvoline has both GL-4 and GL-5 rating on the bottle.

According to my rebuilder (Abe) at Weller truck it could be used in both NV4500 and NV5600. Now other members here will argue over this fact. Like PenzOil Syncromesh is not a full GL-4 lube because it just TOO THIN you will not find a GL rating on PenzOil. No mention of being synthetic either. I've got over 150k miles on Mobil 50 SAE with no issues. Never had a fluid failure yet. Power failures (breaking gear teeth off), pilot bearing failure, etc but never a fluid failure. Both transmission should be on GL-4 because of the syncros which GL-5 will attack yellow metal and carbon fiber syncros. The only current GL rating is GL-4 for transmissions and GL-5 axles and differentials. GL-1, GL-2, GL-3 and GL-6 are obsolete. I asked Abe about Valvoline 75w-90 it meets the GL-4 rating but... It is not a synthetic gear lube. This is not suggested in our transmissions either NV4500 or NV5600. Currently have both carbon fiber and brass syncros. Reverse, 1st gear and 2nd gear are carbon fiber. Now 3rd, 4th and 5th are all brass. Still in all GL-4 is design around all syncros. None of my failures are fluid related..  Broke the mainshaft at 3rd and 4th gear. Never ran that hot even towing around here. I just pulled that trailer out of the back country with over 2 cords of wood and never got over 160*F. The Lube is a bit thicker cold but has awesome cold weather characteristics it is a full synthetic lube. My temp probe is in the PTO cover on the driver side. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/heavy-duty-lubricants/products/mobil-delvac-1-transmission-fluid-50/ Typically sells for about $250 a 5 gallon bucket. Breaks down to $12.50 a quart. Still cheaper than Mopar fluid I use to buy at $27 a quart. Shift performance is good all the way down to -40*F and all the way up to 220*F of trans fluid.

As long as you don't leave it idle... Then it will drive as normal but leave it sit and idle excessively then the high idle software kicks in.

Thank you. Yup that was what I was talking about just couldn't get off my tip tongue... Did the job for a local carpet cleaner truck he's got a 2001 Dodge.

Well wait right here for ya... Just post it up...

3G motor... The bearings failed because the pump shaft seal started leaking washed out the bearings with diesel fuel and then it partial seized up and popped the fuse. I jumped to the 4G motor from AirDog and never looked back. The 4G 165 Pump head will fit the body of the 2nd and 3rd gen filter base. The 4G AirDog pump is a double seal shaft with double bearings.

There is one catch on some models of hydro booster you input rod has to be cut and re-welded back together to replace the input shaft seal. That was the one I didn't bother with. Only way you can tell is after you pull the entire unit out.

Ok... To verify sensors. Setup your iQuad app and have ready in the morning. On the display have coolant and IAT right next to each other. Now when your turn the key on for the wait to start just done start it. Leave it. Now look at the IAT and coolant temps they should be both the same. If not then you'll have to have IR temp gun and measure the best you can between the coolant and IAT locations. Verify the sensors are displaying correctly. The one that is off on the measurement and what is displayed is the one to replace.

Ok simple. The only way for Quadzilla to activate the high idle is if you have the warm up mode set ON. If the warm up mode is set for OFF it should not start high idle. High idle on the ECM has no way to disable. It will activate any time the conditions are TRUE. IAT <32*F (6 CYL) or IAT <15*F (3 CYL) ECT <140*F Those two conditions are true then the ECM will start high idle. For ECM to cancel high idle... Brake Pedal Pressed Throttle Pedal Pressed Automatic place into gear Road speed > 0 MPH Engine Coolant > 169*F

All 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins ISB engines have the software already. If anyone has ever used a Smarty tuner on that truck it automatically enables the software. The only way to turn it off again is a visit to the Dodge Dealer and have a dealer tech reverse that article above and turn it back off. Another thing the temperatures are based on IAT temperatures. When you start the truck the grid heaters are running so the manifold temperature has to fall below 32*F for 6 cylinder high idle, then 15*F for high idle 3 cylinder. This is where the high idle kit into place because now it give you control over the software to allow it be automatic or manual force the 3 CYL or 6 CYL modes. If you want to ditch the Cummins software high idle you'll have to visit a Dodge Dealer and have it turned off. The Quadzilla high idle work pretty good and good for light winter stuff. It provides good 6 cylinder high idle based on ECT temp what you have set and the delay of second before it kick back in. No 3 cylinder mode provided by Quadzilla. Either way 6 cylinder high idle doesn't generate much heat. This only creates about 300 to 400*F EGT's and warm up time is long. Now enable 3 CYL mode of the Cummins software and also use your exhaust brake. I've seen warm up times from -20*F to 170*F engine temp in under 15 minutes. 3 cylinder mode and an exhaust brake can produce nearly 1,000*F EGT's and warm up a cold Cummins in a quick amount of time. Even without a exhaust brake 3 CYL can produce a good solid 600*F EGT's and still warm up fairly fast. It can depending on the settings for warm pu and delay for high idle listed in the setting page.

I'm going to have to say my gut feeling is your APPS sensor isn't right in calling IDLE mode from the validation switch. I know we unplugged it and checked butt we haven't replaced it to verify your current APPS.

Empty tank is a awkward thing to work with but empty its very easy to handle. I just replaced my fuel sender last month took about an hour to drain the tank into buckets, unbolt the tank, drop it down and then install the new sender and re-install.

There is two bus connections if you look at the wire map. There is the CCD bus then there is SCI bus that only access the PCM and ECM. Double check those connections. Beyond that there is only power and ground. +12V at pin 16 GND at pin 5 GND at pin 4 CCD at pins 3 and 11 SCI at pins 6, 7 and 14

Just to point out something. When you measuring temperatures between devices. Anything that creates heat is a loss of power. Part of the work energy that is created into heat is a bad sign meaning your pushing too hard, ratios are wrong or just plan abusing the truck. When you start looking at efficiency and heat reduction its about reduction inefficiency when you do you'll find everything runs cooler in result without the need of coolers. Just in what I figure out in tuning I managed to reduce the engine oil temps 20 to 30 degree (165 o 175*F) typically. Then transmission temps fell when I reduced the tire size to 30 inch. Better final ratio even affected the engine oil temps again too. So as you weed out the drag anf inefficiencies then the rest falls in place. You could jump to Mobil 50 as well. That is like 90 weight. I'm running brass syncros and carbon fiber both. (1st and 2nd carbon fiber and 3rd, 4th, and 5th are brass). I'm using the very same fluid used in 10 speed Eaton Fuller transmissions. More on the gear lube comment. Normal 80w-90 gear lube is typically GL-5 which will damage the brass or carbon fiber syncros. This is why both NV4500 and NV5600 require a GL-4 transmission fluid. Both transmission should be running a synthetic transmission fluid. Just going to PenzOil page and checking it doesn't list as a synthetic fluid and the technical data sheet is not available. I know its not listed as a GL-4 fluid because it TOO THIN! Hence why it can't be classed as GL-4 fluid... Straight from Pennzoil Page. Viscosity chart...

Last firewood haul I did on Sunday (October 4, 2020)... Level as you can get with 2 cords of red fire in the trailer. Now if you have a 2 inch leveling kit and then hitched up the rear will pull down that 3 to 4 inches and the nose will appear to be high and the tail swatting. Really common out here lot of people do the lift kits but then when hauling a trailer their headlight are in your face in lo or hi beam mode. That the only part I really hate about lift or leveling kits.

Back when I was using the Mopar fluids it would run a full 100k miles on the factory fluid. I just can't see the 27 dollar a quart price tag any longer. Switch over to the Mobil 50 SAE GL-4 and change interval is now reduced to 50k-75k miles roughly. It darkens quick. When the fluid is dark the material in the oil is spent. As for glitter or metals I only had that issue with the pilot bearing fell out and ruined the input shaft bearing and filled the case with glitter. Even with my temp probe in the PTO cover I rare to reach above 160*F trans temp on the highway. Even hauling the RV to Arizona I only got to 200*F in the desert heat (100 to 110*F) on a long grade pull (15 plus miles long 6-7%). Rest of the time it would settle back to 160 to 170*F for normal flat ground. This is partially because I went down in my tire size to 30 inch tires and increase the final ratio reducing stress on the transmission. Like yesterday came out with 2 cords of firewood and after a about 25 mile hike out forest I barely made 160*F. Still to this day no coolers and still running Mobil 50.

Some of the hardware store have a good amount of weird things like rubber grommet and o-rings. You might try even NAPA stores some them have grommets and o-rings as well.

Problem is the bed lift you need at least a good 1 to 2 feet clearance to lift the sender basket out. Once the sender ring is loosen it will stand up even more being the spring will push up. Now the total length of the sender will require that 1 to 2 foot clearance ti lift out without damage the sender float arm.

Contact glue would work but lightly. Same thing as the headliner. Might even find some sort of fabric like headliner that is foam backed and rather durable for the arm rest. You never know.

True. I just did one for a customer here locally and managed to squeeze out the hydro booster. Then split it open and replaced the seals. Then reinstalled. I will admit it was my first time of doing and there is a few then to be careful of... Like there is a small piece in the body which will most likely drop out when you split the body. Direction of that valve is important. Other than that the seal on the output shaft needs to be resealed most of the time. Total time for me was 3 hours. This is refilled and priming the system as well.

Might try removing the rubber grommet and then use a bit of sealant like seal-all or silicone (light amounts). Then reassemble and see if that works. If the rubber is truly gone and rotten then you might have to hit the part number books in the article section hunt down the part number for it and then do a web search for that part number and see what pops up.

I would verify that the lift pump is indeed making some pressure. Typically we suggest 14 to 20 PSI at the VP44 injection pump for proper operation. If your lift pump died it will never refill the system without some pressure to push it up to the injection pump. You can bump the starter to get the prime circuit running for 20 seconds.Then at the VP44 there is a cap and schraider (sp?) valve. Depress the little pin to see if the pump is work it should blow the air out and start squirting low pressure diesel fuel. If the pump is not working replace... Now crack 1, 3, and 4 injection lines and crank till the fuel is seen from those and close. Then once close it should start on the 1, 3 and 4 lines and help push the rest of the air out of the system. Do not use starting fluid. If you have to use starting fluid first unhook the grid heaters. Then when you use it just a very small blast will be needed. Large amounts can cause engine damage. If the grid heater are not unhooked could result in a explosion.

Yup like most. Start short. Now when you launch the pedal should be full engaged before the middle of the pedal stroke. Sooner the better from the floor. Again you don't want to over extend the bearing past the fingers of the pressure plate. Start short and add 1/2 turn to the head and re-pin. If your engaging early near the floor like 1/4 of the travel is great.