Mopar1973Man

Actually this particular should trip P0236 boost too high too long.

There is... Remove the box clear any codes. This test drive for 10 miles or so. If and codes are set then the map sensor is bad. If not the boost cooler is bad. Another way is to replace the map sensor and see if there is change. But map sensors are spendy.

He's going to love them...

180*F alternate cooler thermostat. I tried it as a test its fine in the summer time but doesn't work very well in the winter time gets too cool. 190*F is the stock temp. You can install 6.7L 200*F thermostat and it will fit just fine and produce serious vent temperatures in the cab. It will strip the ice from a windshield rather quickly.

Morimoto HID's... I cast light at least 40 to 50 feet in either ditch along a 2 lane highway. On hi beam I can cast light as tall as 50 feet.

I clear 1,200 miles a week. Yup I spend a good part of my morning in the dark. Like I'll be leaving here at 7:15am and heading south. I wont see good light till about council, ID. Then on my way home typically its just getting dark about the time I'm heading past Council, ID north. LEDs do work there is several seal beam solutions in LEDs. It's the dumb Ford guys that retro fit the LEDs and assume the pattern is still good without adjusting. Typically they end up with the cab full lit up from my Morimoto D2S HIDs.

Take some summer biodiesel and then stuff it in the freezer over night see if it turns solid. Then add the product to the frozen fuel then return to the freezer and see if it does the job.

Problem is the stock housing tend to be poor pattern of light and requires a full readjustment with fresh LEDs they can be made to to work as a few here have managed to do. It is not just change bulbs and roll... You MUST readjust both headlights after the change to LEDs prevent blinding people.

All I can say is it will still suck. I've got these in my 1996 Dodge now with SilverStar bulbs and very poor lighting. I'm going to be playing with LED bulbs next to see if I can improve this. Still in all a Silverstar bulb is roughly 860 lumens and the LED's are 3,000 lumens. Just for fun... PIAA LED driving lights... These are brighter than my Morimoto D2S lights. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx

I'm so glad to be back to driving my Cummins with my Morimoto D2S lens. Comparing now between 1996 with Silverstar Halogens with crystal clear lens and the Morimoto D2S is huge difference. Morimoto D2S cast light much wider and farther down the road. The SilverStar halogens are scattered and very dim even on hi beam. So funny people will spend thousands for turbos, injectors, injection pumps. But when it comes to lighting. OMG!!! spend some serious money on lighting that just too expensive for lighting. Yup, it's true there is $1,000.00 worth of light on my 2002 Cummins. I'm still learning you can spend the 70 bucks for new headlights and fancy Silverstar bulbs. Lighting still sucks and weak at best. You can spend the money on sport lights with four SilverStar bulbs and relay kits and still suck for lighting. There is nothing in the halogen playground that will even come close to a HID lighting period. My 1996 is going to get a change up... Driving at night with that truck is dangerous.

MAP sensor issue. It's in defueling mode currently with the boost at limit. Quadzilla does not read any codes. You have to plug in your own OBDII coder reader in the dash.

When we had ol' @cajflynn running here on the site he was changing oil every 20k miles. Chevron Delo 15w-40 Fleetguard Filter Net sum of this is a 53 block engine that made it to 1.3 million miles. Then another one is @dorkweed that ran a MotorGuard bypass filter. He started with a oil change and ran... Supertech Diesel Oil 15w-40 Fleetguard Motoguard bypass filter (toilet paper) He ran 84k miles on a single oil change. Testing every 7k miles with Blackstone and replaced the filters every 7k and topped off. I post this just for educational purpose. It up to the reader to contact and chat with these people since they are to currently active here. They are still members and will respond if asked.

Like myself I running a 190*F thermostat. Typically with winter temperatures I run about 160*F to 170*F in oil temperature. 2nd Gen vs. 4th gen for oil coolers are way different layouts on how the coolant flow is routed over the oil cooler and 4th gens have a much better coolant flow over the oil cooler and can easily run a 200*F year round. 2nd gen isn't as good but still very functional system. Anything below 180*F is going to suffer for sure. I've done my own testing with coolant temps. Being you need heat to make the fuel change from liquid to vapor and then ignite and burn completely. So between coolant and IAT these two numbers will either improve the ignition quality or not.

You can replace most likely easier than all the buffing and sanding. https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Assembly-Replacement-Housing-Passenger/dp/B07FJVPWYF/

Now that's funny chit man...

Actually just need to replace them with better clear housings. The vents on the housing might be faulty or there is a leak in the lens face, or even a possible crack. I would just replace them if there is moisture leaking in.

All I can do is dream of camping... Last camping trip was back when we all go together for the eclipse.

Could replace the cord pretty cheap like 17 dollars. Very rare for the element to fail.

Dump the APPS you and buy a Timbo's apps. There is no voltage to set. Currently your in throttling mode hence the high idle. I would just ditch that apps.

Finally yesterday started to look more normal again. Got up early got a bit of web work done for the morning. Paid a few bills. Then took off for a job in Pollock, ID. Local gent want me to look at his daughter Ford Focus. It has 2 misfire codes for cylinder 2 and 4. I had to walk away from it being I don't have a ton of knowledge on Ford vehicles. Then I ran back to my other shop which I knew I had a Dodge truck with leaking transmission lines. I grabbed my cellphone and stood right next to the network extender I had no cell service and could not place any phone calls. I asked Russ the land owner if his phone worked pulls out his cell phone and he's got 5 bars. When I was in town my referral contact in Riggins was telling me of complains that I'm not answering my phone or returning calls. Kind of hard when there is no cell signal on my phone. Like as I sit here my network extender is less than 3 feet away. So I had to leave Russ's shop and head home to place the call on a land line being my cellphone crapped out. Then later started working again. Thing is with my cellphone instead of calling customers to come back and see parts or issues I can snap a photo and text it to them and then I get go ahead for parts or what not. This now make life easy for me because I can work from either shop and never have to fight with communications (different phone numbers). Also that text messages and notes follow me. I originally started with a notebook at each but found myself having the notes left behind at either shop and constantly running back and forth. Cellphone follows me with all my contacts and notes. So I return to Russ's place to finish the Dodge for now and kick it out to load up a Ford with coolant leak. After looking it over I need to replace the coolant manifold gaskets that tie the heads together. But that is going to require lots of time to remove a ton of stuff. It got returned to the owner for now since she needs the vehicle for heading to Spokane. As it goes home its barely weeping with all that I could do to abuse it and get coolant pressures up. Yeah scary though I bought a Ford home to yard full of Dodge's I had to hid my face in a paper bag so no one knew! Then flipped switch and went old school and working on a older Chevy van with headlight issues. I thought it was dimmer switch for sure but sad to say it was both headlight were blown. The plugs were oxidized enough to give the illusion of no power on the hi beam leg. So after wasting about an hour I got it all put back together and good headlights and both hi and lo beams working. Now this morning I started at 4:30am with both of my hips hurting and my lower back from all the bench pressing I did on my truck on Sunday. Gotta roll to Ontario being Mom skipped on Saturday being my 1996 Dodge broke down with a bad alternator and the AC noise was so bad it was pulling the trans all the way down to 2nd gear randomly. If I drive at 30 MPH it would stay in 4th gear. So 65 mile trip took nearly 2 hours to get back home. Now the Cummins is running again. @AH64ID posted up about a alternator rebuilt Durobilt in Nampa which I'm willing to try. Sad I didn't have the time yesterday to pull that alternator. So it on hold again. This is the part that annoys me is everyone else problems are fixed in a timely manner but when it comes to my own stuff I'm having to wait. Hence being with the Cummins since Jan 4. Weller had it done in 1 day. Then have the transmission hang on the hoist till Jan 26th. Rather frustrating.

Once bio gels it will separate and sink to the bottom of the tank. Far as I know there is no product for gelled biodiesel that will bring it back to liquid.

Simple way... Amount of gallons you pumped in your tank is the number of ounces to put in. If you filled you tank and pumped 20.589 you would put in 20 ounces of oil. Just remember 50:1 ratio is common for most chainsaws and protects the entire engine from wear with GASOLINE at high RPM's. Now with diesel fuel 128:1 is more than enough for the 24V engine. For CR engines you gotta drop to 200:1 because of the multi-injection events tends to add to much oil to the cylinder. As for HFRR numbers todays fuel is ~520 HFRR from the pump. Bosch requires <460 HFRR and a 128:1 shot of 2 cycle oil will get you roughly to 380 HFRR. DO NOT USE - ATF or Waste Engine Oil. Both of these have extremely high levels of ash and will plug up injectors and leave ash deposits on the crowns of the pistons.

Just because the speed limit is 65 MPH don't always expect the highway to be clear of deer, elk, rocks, trees, etc. You never know... Like last night a truck wiped out a DUCK. Yup a duck... Broke his windshield I bet.

Actually there is something you can do. You need to gather everyone up in your state and contact you state transportation board and complain about the salt usage and you want the state to stop using salt. Don't just talk about your vehicle but also make sure to bring up how its damaging the highways, bridges, and vegetation along the highway. If there is a enough complaints then they must stop the salt usage. I'm working on do this right now in my own area because Idaho never used salt till about 5 years ago. The biggest impact out here is the salt is messing with salmon and steelhead population in the rivers, the highways are not making it a year without major damage. This is because the salt keeps the dirt under the asphalt liquid hence big potholes can form. Then there is the rusting of vehicles now you might get bids for repair of your vehicles and submit them to the state. This should wake them up if you have hundreds of people doing it.

Go down. 265's on 3.55 tend to wear front suspension more. 235's I ran for many years really did extend the brakes and way better traction. Now dropping down to 245/75 R16 on the truck changes the final gearing to 3.69:1 to the ground producing more torque to the ground. This little mod just allows more power out to the ground, and reduced drive line stress. Yeah, I know I've managed to snap 5th gear off at 80 MPH. But that gear had over 350k miles on it... Metal fatigue... There is all kinds of stuff you can do without going up in huge HP injectors and twin turbos...