Mopar1973Man

No problem. Yeah do the W-T ground wire mod, then make sure your alternator passes a AC ripple test.

Yup just updated my previous post...

ECM requires a rebuild before anything else. When the Wait To Start doesn't light up the ECM is NOT booting up. It has internal errors that make it impossible to load up and not start. Auto Computer Specials. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/auto-computer-specialist-r5/?do=getLastComment&d=7&id=5

Well... Bigger turbos spool much slower. 109mm is going to be too big for sure. Heck most people have issues with spooling just a 71mm compressor on the street. One of the few reasons I kept the HX35W is the quickness to spool and the fact of my exhaust brake on the back of the turbo. I'm looking to upgrade even like 62/68/14 Turbo if possible but would require a full exhaust brake replacement too., Ouch!

Another update. Medically I'm healing slowly. Finally made it past my first cancer check and still going. No medical appts except for PT which I need to help ditch my spare tire. I need more core strength to prevent having hernia anytime soon. Still a risk with any heavy lifting. Tidbit that is funny that my makeup and Goth look now has nurses betting with money what I'm going to be wearing. Yeah it true I just was down getting resized from 1 inch stoma to 7/8 inch stoma and change the Rx. The nurse was overjoyed when I was there with my black and purple hair and makeup.

1/2 is more pressure stable than 3/8 inch line. Remember stock is 6mm ID smaller than 1/4 inch. Smaller line tend to have more pressure drop that larger lines.

Be aware the 3 piece could leak at the joints. This typically for most i suggest the factory manifold again. Cracking means someone abused the truck ran it hard and didn't monitor EGTs. Last year a replace a manifold be cause it shrunk 1/2 inch could be used because the owner came in for overheat but had no boost or EGT gauges and fried the exhaust manifold. The owner had no clue the boost was low EGTs where high enough to bury the gauge. Pyrometers save exhaust from cracking.

Personal opinion. Not fond of this pump. No pump is made to suck fluids long distances. All pumps are designed to push fuel not pull long distance. Then without a electric pump if you lose prime there is no way to start the truck. Most have to remove the belt and pump and spin the shaft with a drill. This is why aftermarket stock went into the fuel tank less distance to suck the fuel. Even AirDog and FASS both suggest close as possible to the fuel tank. Now DDRP pumps are junk too because of crappy plumbing and still the distance makes stress for the pumps. ~450k miles on my AirDog and replace 2 heads. Bonus is the fuel polishing because AirDog make many passes through the filter 3 micron then also kept factory filter as well and do 60k to 70k filter change. This is due to lower fuel temps <130°F typically.

Reverse. How about firing up a Cummins and driving 20 miles and still have little coolant temp because the engine doesn't make much heat even with 200°F thermostat from a 6.7L.

I lost my factory APPS to dead pedal back before 100k. I got my first Timbos years ago. Still the simple fact there is no electronics to fail. Back on my second APPS there was no after market parts that APPS was dealer only at the time costing 520. Yeah Timbos at 180 at the time was CHEAP.

Minimum Specs... Right out of Dodge FSM. 10 PSI at idle 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM Grab a test gauge and test the factory oil pressure gauge is software controlled just coolant temperatures can change the pressure on the oil side. Now another issue is old injectors that are popping too early and the advancement goes unnoticed most don't see or feel any changes. For every -10 bar in pressure is roughly a 1-degree advancement in timing. Suppose the injectors are down to 240 to 260 bar which is a 5 to 7 degree gain on timing that the ECM has zero control over. Now you heat soak the engine oil because of improper timing and typically most have engine oil temperature and coolant temperature running close together in value. I'm the odd duck where I run 320 bar (2 degrees retarded) popped injectors (150 HP) but now with the timing correction on the Quadzilla I managed to reduce oil temperatures by 30 to 35 degrees lower with coolant temperature in the 204°F to 210°F realm and engine oil temperatures are 168 to 175°F. As seen below. Transmission is engine oil temp. Be aware I'm running a 200°F 6.7L thermostat. Still run colder oil temps than most here.

Hua... Maybe consider upgrading to a Timbos APPS and skip the relocate. My last Timbos lasted like many years with no issues. Timbo is completely electronics free unit with all mechanical parts.

Be careful to be aware that the MAP sensor and oil pressure sensors can be interchanged for positions. The plugs are the same even. I just had a local gent ask me to look at his truck and the sensor he changed was the manifold pressure sensor. After showing the owner where the actual sensor was located he was thankful and was seriously worried that no oil came out of the hole. Yes, this just happened yesterday.

Talk to @dieselautopower they handle the Smarty Tunr to flash the ECM for that function. Then @Quadzilla Power handles the high idle switch so you can control the high idle.

Biggest thing is keeping a final ratio after the tires near 3.73 if possible. Oh make sure the steering gear box is NOT a quick ratio.

For sure not going to with 44 inch tires. Even with 37 inch these trucks suck for braking, suspension, and acceleration and MPG. Most foul the ratio and then have huge issues.

Already there and can compete with that currently. I'm already 500 HP and solid to tow anything I wish no issues (EGTs, etc.). Biggest thing for towing is make sure you in a 3.73 realm this will remove a ton of stress off the axles and transmission hence why I registered already for the maximum of 26,000 pound commercial plates. My problem is with my amount of power I can hitch up my 31 foot RV (8,500 pounds) and fry the tires while towing. Why I opted for the 245/75 R16 tires I can have the 3.69 ratio without the cost of axle swaps.

Many improvements to this network since this post. IPv6 and IPv4 addresses are available for all my network. WiFi access points include a firewalled Guest WiFi limited to 10Mbit down and 5 MBit up speeds and has zero access inside my network. WiFi range is enhanced being it covers 4 properties and cross the highway still have signal for broke down people. Within the network I can share my Printer to all internal users. Starlink is 200 MBit down and 50 Mbit up with current conditions. Changed my DNS server to Cloudflare giving more privacy. Enhanced WiFi priority so less lag hopefully for cellphone users. Going to be adding... Smaller 10 port switch down in the shop so I can add a few more cameras. Adding hard line RJ45 ports in select rooms. Currently, my server machine is going to relocate into the server cabinet and use use Reminia Remote Desktop which is easier to use than Windows versions. This way I can clear the second position of my deskop and not have a entire station choked with just a server machine that is holding desktop. My cameras record to the server automagically and over write older files. I've got a few weird issues currently where my cloud management of the network is goofy.

Running 3.69 final ratio after tires which is easy just drop to 245/75 R16 tire on 3.55 and close enough without huge cost of gear swap. Being I'm the MPG king with solid axle no CAD and no free spin kit I've past the 30 MPG mark by crossing the entire state of Washington on a 1/4 tank of fuel. Low rotational mass (smaller is better), good final ratio after tires (245/75 R16), good tuner with timing settings (Quadzilla) you can do the same without the huge cost. Let me know when you can top 30 MPG.

You would be surprised there is better content on tiktok. For the EmoGoth or Goth there is quite a few people doing this style and makeup work. Great way to ask a fellow artist questions on make up and other things. Slowly I'm over 350 followers and always on the hunt for a new video to upload. Like Suzanna took me out for my birthday dinner and ending up with a Tiktok in the restaurant. Cook bought me an ice cream cone her treat. Why would you stop? I'm not I'm enjoying the smiles I created.

12V series block had a mechanical lift pump rode on the cam lobe. 24V they used a L shaped bracket to mount the lift pump from those bolt holes. So it was dual purpose block off plate and a mount for the electric pump. Sadly, some dummy pulled the plate and used cardboard and silicone to keep the oil from running out. Part #1 - You can see the bracket and how it held the stock lift pump. Auto Computer Specialists can do harness rebuilding too. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/auto-computer-specialist-r5/?do=getLastComment&d=7&id=5 Dielectric grease will seal water and road salts out keeping the contacts clean and functional. Use some contact cleaner then use the dielectric grease. Forward... Just consider I've managed to build a 492k mile truck up to about 500 HP now, 30+ MPG and enough power to tow, drag, or just haul. Once you get the other stuff fixed then we can start optimizing the rest of the truck. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTF3eREgC/ <- Beast out in the snow a year or so ago.

Lift pump plate. You can use a Chevy fuel pump block off plate to cover. IAT only controls grid heater functions mostly. Below 80°F it will advance timing about 3 to 4 degrees. Then above 80°F the ECM uses normal timing.

So my life continues... As for the makeup work and my appearance, I'm not going to stop. Everywhere I go now is a very enjoyable experience. I was just in Home Depot and one of the employees started asking about my appearance and I told people this is my normal daily appearance. I was typically told I looked like a rock star like Alice Cooper or similar. Even this morning I got up and showered and shaved and as down and did my makeup art. I'm 3 months cancer-free and clean but still having issues with my kidney functions. As for returning to my normal life is still very limiting being I've still got to watch my pain by checking my blood pressure throughout the day. Some days I do great and other days I get the BP up and have to go chill out and smoke a bit to calm it back down. Even trying to do minor repairs on Beast sure put a beating on me. I'm still fairly weak yet and still working to gain that back., My days are getting longer on how much I can do. I'm healing for sure. My current problem is my stoma has shrunk a bit more and I've been having issues with my wafer starting to leak fairly quickly a times. The last few days feel like every day I've had a leak and changing clothes and washing my belly off to verify if it is the sealant leaking or did it was pushed around the seal between the bag and the wafer. Sucks because one day I bought a brand new shirt and put it on and just bent over and grab my boots then I managed to squeeze pee on the new shirt that I barely wore for 15 minutes. Yeah it's a back-and-forth battle some days and difficult to handle and just makes me wanna cry. So aggravating! I would rather be pissed OFF than pissed ON! Just for even more fun... I just broke the camera on my phone so my forward face camera lens is shattered. I've gotta make time and go buy a new cellphone now so I can continue with work here and even some of my video work on TikTok.

Auto Computer Specialist will rebuild wiring for you.

Could be fly by wire like Beast. There is no vacuum motor to pull the throttle. Manual trucks in the later series 2nd Gen had fly by wire cruise supplied by the PCM. Swapping you'll lose cruise functions. Most likely you have a bad switch on the steering wheel.