Mopar1973Man

Hmmm. Never really handled and TIPM yet but would consider calling @Auto Computer Specialist and see if they haidle the TIPM as part their services.

Chipped key required you can't start a 3rd Gen truck without chipped key near the ignition lock. Thor is that way and without the chipped key it will start and run a very short time like 2 to 5 seconds then the engine shuts down and a red light on the lower right of cluster. This is chipped key is required to keep it running.

I was really hoping someone would give me a bit of aid with this misfire issue somewhat. Baffling...

Hey Gang, I've managed to get Thor running for the first time in 2 years. I opted for a stock fuel pump for right now since I'm missing parts yet for the AirDog 150 fuel system I've got I'm looking for a bracket for the pump. I have good positive pressure for the CP3 injection pump. I need to find out what the misfire and studdering are about. Cold start it's a bit long cranking not bad. Once it starts it runs rough and smokes white. I've got a set of @dieselautopower +50 HP injectors installed and had them sent back to DAP and found one injector had an issue and was repaired and sent back. Then I ordered a set of o-rings and replaced all o-rings on injectors and cross-over tubes. Once warmed up all roughness is gone. It runs good and strong for what it is. I can even do the oil cap test and the cap does not even move. I'm trying to figure out the cold idle roughness and warm up smoke them once warm it drives and runs great. Even yesterday I drove to town and got 50 dollars of fresh diesel fuel to make sure its got enough cetane and pour point depressants. Currently 39*F here. Last problem in this category is the grid heater light came on yesterday and dinged 10 times signaling its high flow rates of the CP3. It idles at about 7,9xx PSI of fuel rail. At 1,500 RPM its pumping up to 11,8xx roughly and appears the fuel rail is building good pressure. With Thor being my project I plan on writing articles as I get things figured out. So anyone give me a hand on this? Monday I'm going to put insurance and registration on Thor and he's going to become my daily runner. Why? Beast finally needs shop time and the rear main seal is leaking. Thor becomes the primary rig for now while I gather supplies for Beast and get my help here to remove the transmission and transfer case so we can access the rear main seal. Thor is also going to lose the heavy flat bed and front bumper soon. I'm going back to the lighter factory box and tailgate then factory bumpers and ditch close to a full ton of steel. Thor is fat at 9,300 pounds even empty.

I'll admit it was a grab for memory on pressure value. My bad. 4500 is injector pop pressure again my bad. As for the burp back typically that is because of air is trapped and and displacing the fluid. Repriming a system typically is a bit frustrating but patience is key. It a matter of run and settle time to work air out of the system. If the pump is truly pumping then its a matter of clearing up the air and getting just power steering fluid through the system.

Here is the CanBus map... This shows the TIPM is a controller of sorts controlling more than just the lights...

Gotta keep in mind air is compressable, the pump needs to reach at least 4,500 PSI to do its work properly. Is it possible you have a foamy power steering fluid? How about a bad pressure regulator in the pump that is stuck in full bypass? Being both the steering and brake booster are both affected it's back to the power steering pump, typically. Now, the typical neutral position for both steering and brakes should return full flow to the reservoir again. During use of the steering and brakes the pump should increase pressure and hold for brakes and steering to function in high-stress environments (panic stop avoid deer).

Might check shaft alignment too make sure your dogs are lined up into the slots of the vacuum pump. Make sure the pump shaft isn't damaged.

Normally... I do this with only the steering box return routed to the waste container. Now with the reservoir full with the front axle lifted off the floor now rotate the steering from lock to lock without the engine running. The steering box will naturally pull a vacuum sucking the fluid on one side of the piston the dumping flow when compressing. Typically takes about a full quart to prime and clear the lines. Then hook the return line back up and do the purge again till the foam quits then you are ready to start the engine.

Ok. Best timing numbers are based on the the engine oil temperatures. When your timing is correct the coolant and oil temperatures will fall slightly and engine load is reduced. Like myself I got to calculate the pop pressure on mine a bit more being I'm a bit more retarded with higher pop pressure. Colder IAT typically likes more timing but need to keep retarding also to be able to build boost quickly. I just released the newest version (2024.12.1) of my Eco Tune for December. The 265's are bit taxing to MPG's. I've created the newer version of tune with deep retard for boost building and power is nearly instant. Still can reach below 20% engine load and keep in the 20's for MPG's.

Just my thought is the security system is flashing the lights just like you repeatedly hitting the alarm set button.

Passing thought... Might ask if @Auto Computer Specialist can diagnose the TIPM. Just a thought.

Again here we go... Ugh! I started PT today and trying to strengthen my core. I've lost a lot of muscle mass and control over some areas of muscles that are weak. My PT doctor is working on getting more info on my limitations. As for today was an intro to how am I doing. Well not too good sadly, but it is fixable. Just in a few exercises I'm sore already and need to keep going and working on building my strength and movement. Almost a full year since my start which was December 17, 2023 today is December 11, 2024. Now to try and build back some to get back to a normal life.

Youtube the video. As for the flash its the TIPM which uses digital signals for controlling lighting and such. Double-check all electrical connections and make sure there is no loss of voltage. I've seen a truck when you turn on the right turn signal the horn would honk. The left turn signal would flash the headlights etc. All weird. The problem was the wrong voltage signal sent to the TIPM and then that module turned on what it was told depending on the voltage value on the wire.

Grid heaters will not cause stalling. This morning Beast was started with no block heater and no waiting for the light about 26*F outside. I just hit the key. The engine started and missed, studdered and smoked white till the cylinder temps rose. Then smoothed out instantly. Ran fine. No stall. Air in the fuel will cause a stall on start up.

I would if I had the time and trailer. I'd love to do a cross country trip with Beast to deliver it. Sadly I'm still fighting medical appointments and other stuff. Anyone else? Anyone will to help? Might check U Ship they will haul for a price.

Not a prob. When parts have hundreds of thousands of miles a reman is best.

Keep going you are on the right track.

Suggestion don't come to Idaho. You can have a block heater but there is no current bush to plug it into, We see -40*F temperatures and nowhere to plug in so I built Beast to be cold-started between the high idle software and other things I can start without on even if I went snowmobiling into the back country and come back and cold stat a -40*F unplugged. Block heater are only good if you are at home where the block heater can be plugged in. Like when I go back to the hospital there is nowhere to plug in and my truck sat for 4 days while in surgery last year. Using the Quadzilla High Idle Kit (Mopar1973Man Designed High Idle) https://quadzillapower.com/High-Idle I can go from -20*F to 170*F in just under 10 minutes typically without a block heater.

Crappy noise filters for a bad ground and alternator issues. If it was me I would ditch all that and return to normal stock wiring and fix the real issue of the bad ground with the W-T ground wire mod and then test the alternator.

Sadly. I would remove the injection pump and see about getting a rebuild kit and replace all the seals including the front seal too so the diesel fuel doesn't leak in the crankcase. Reman pumps are available from @dieselautopower . I would consider that being the governor spring and other internal parts do wear out. So before performing any repairs I would highly suggest removing the pump from the truck. That cover should have 4 Allen bolts holding it on. Be careful the Governor Spring is attached to the cover and could be replaced but be careful not to stretch the spring. Serioyusly I would just consider a reman'd pump at least then the pump is in good shape to keep running.

Firs thought is Injectors if they never been changed. Injectors for CR engines are only good for about 100k miles and require replacement. No injector will last beyond 100k miles while keeping the set pop pressure. Be careful injector cleaners and fuel treatments can cause more problems. I've a long article about fuel additives. I will always suggest 2 Cycle Oil over any other product. I typically mix as 128:1 ratio and it would keep the injector lubricated and not taking as much wear. I would start with the power and grounds first. Being the entire system is dying out. TIPM could be a cause being the CANBus controls everything by digital messages for turning power on and off at the TIPM. Let verify the power is staying on for ll the systems. Then the next is to watch the crank sensor and see if the tachometer is getting wild or doing odd RPM's once the crank signal is gone then everything will shutdown.

Good Morning Gang! Mopar1973Man is up and getting built into my new way of life. OK! I'm going to attempt to return to my previous plans. Beast is getting a bit slobbery with a oil leak at the rear main seal. The GF and I agree that Thor needs to return to be put back to function. Mark just got his truck out of my shop and we are going to be shoving Thor in being its been dead for 2 years just about. I need Thor to bring some of the GF stuff back here to the house before winter really hits. Myself I';m going to move forward working on producing 3rd Gen articles off of the adventures of Thor failures. The GF wants to get involved and help in rebuilding this industry of Cummins Support and make it work for all of you. Yeah I'm under limitations that prevent me from going whole hog right now but I'll keep you all posted. Thor's first project is to retro fit a AirDog 150 on that truck then I'm going to sell the bumpers, flat bed and return this truck to factory bumpers and bed. Thor is way too heavy empty to even get good MPG nearly tipping the scale at 10k empty. As for the Titanium side of things., This will remain a part of my life from here on out. Why? I continue to get stellar comments about my appearance. More fun when you have nurses betting money on what I'll wear next. I'm still creating videos on TikTok and Titanium is growing in followers. Too many people here even locally look for me in makeup and hair most days and get bummed when it just normal me which is rare.

Hell yeah. Its time to see color put on the body...

Simple remove the alternator walk into a NAPA or similar and tell them you want it benchtested make sure you ask about having it tested for AC ripple. Then if you replace the alternator test the new one the same way before you leave the store.