Mopar1973Man

Tools Required to remove common rail injectorsSockets - 8mm, 10mm, 11mm (or 7/16"), 13mm, 15mm, 24mm Torque Wrenches (1/4" and 3/8" inch) Wrenches - 10mm, 24mm, 3/4" Torx bit driver - T10 Removal of all 6 common rail injectors1. Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate the ends of the negative cables. This is just done for pure safety for you and the electrical system. 2. Remove the decorative cover (10 mm) breather tubes hooked to the valve cover. 3. Remove the valve cover. There are six 10mm bolts holding the valve cover in place. 4. Remove all the 8mm nutted electrical connections on top of all injectors and unplug the 3 electrical connectors on the driver side of the lower valve cover. 5. Remove the lower half of the valve cover, which has seven 10mm bolts. Be aware that there is one at the very front edge and the very rear edge. 6. Remove all 6 exhaust rockers. Make sure to lay them out in the exact order you removed them from the engine. Have a small table covered with rags and set the table beside the truck, and from front to rear, lay the rockers out in that order. 7. Remove the intake horn. There is one 10mm bolt holding the dipstick tube, then 11m (7/16) socket loosen the intake boot clamp. Then there are four 10mm bolts holding the intake tube to the intake manifold and grid heater. Lay them over to the driver's side out of the way. 8. Remove all 6 injector lines from the rail to the head. There are 10mm bolts holding some of the lines that are bolted to the intake cover plate. Using a 3/4 inch wrench, you'll loosen both ends and remove each line. Again, lay them out in the exact order next to each cylinder rocker arm in order. 9. You'll need a 24mm open-end wrench or a box-end that is thin. Remove each connector tube nut. Using a flat-blade screwdriver and carefully pry each tube from the cylinder head. Suggested to lay each connecting tube next to each cylinder rocker arm for inspection. 10. Remove all twelve 8mm bolts holding the injectors in place. 11. Using a flat-blade screwdriver and place the tip under the hold-down collar of each injector and either twist the screwdriver to lift the injector out or lever off a head bolt and lift each injector out. Suggested to lay out each injector next to its cylinder's rocker arm for inspection. WARNING: Do not attempt to replace just one injector that is damaged. Injectors should be replaced in complete sets. NOTE: I also highly suggest that you do not replace with Bosch stock injectors; Bosch stock injectors are not flow-matched or pop tested before sale. This means you do not have a matching set for your truck, and the injector failure rate is much higher on unmatched injectors. You should buy a set of injectors that have been pop-tested and flow-matched for your application. NOTE: Bosch injectors typically come with an 8-digit hexadecimal code on the injector, which is supposed to be programmed into the ECM to set the offset of each injector, hence why Bosch injectors are not tested as a set. I highly suggest you DO NOT buy Bosch injectors!, but an aftermarket set that can be tested as a set of 6 injectors. WARNING: Always replace common rail injectors as a complete set of 6 injectors. Not doing so results in poor engine performance, and economy being older injectors will most likely be out of spec (Advanced timing, poor spray pattern, etc) WARNING: There are differences in injectors between early and late 3rd Generation trucks. Do not exchange early and late injectors; engine damage will occur. NOTE: If your truck happens to be an automatic transmission, be aware that the added power of injectors might make the transmission slip. This depends on the final ratio of the truck to the ground, and oversize tires will impact this issue. Inspection of the injectorsTo inspect the common rail injectors, you will need to clean off all the fuel and oil from the injectors. Brake clean and rag should suffice. 1. Look for burrs or wear on the injector inlet. 2. Check nozzle holes for hole erosion or plugging. You will need a magnifying glass to really see the nozzle. 3. Inspect the end of the injector nozzle for mechanical damage. Strike damage etc. 4. Look for cracks at the injector nozzle end. 5. If any of these conditions occur, have the entire set of injectors rebuilt. Installing common rail injectorsMost injectors are rebuilt these days. There are a few companies that do sell new flow match injectors like Big Bang Injectors (BBI), even Diesel Auto Power (DAP) 1. Unpack all 6 common rail injectors and verify that the copper shims are included on the nozzle. If not, you will need to install the copper shims. If the shim slides on easily, you will need a small dab of axle-bearing grease to hold the shim in place during installation. A new copper shim with the correct thickness must always be reinstalled after removing the injector. Measure the thickness of the injector shim. Shim Thickness: 1.5 mm (.060”) 2. Thoroughly clean the fuel injector cylinder head bore, making sure there is no debris or old copper shims in the bottom of the bores. You can use a shot of brake cleaner and a rag to wipe out the holes. 3. Most injector suppliers typically already have the O-rings on the body of the injector. If not, make sure to install that o-ring at this time and lightly lube the o-ring with clean engine oil. 4. Install the new injector. Pay attention to the location of the inlet port on the side of the injector, and it should face the intake manifold in line with where the crossover tube goes. Push down the injector hold-down collar and seat the injector completely into the bore. 5. On each injector, you want to tighten the two 8mm bolts alternately till 44 inch/pounds. This just ensures the injector is fully seated in the bore. I typically back off this torque to allow the injector to find the center of the cross-over tube in the next step. 6. Install all 6 crossover tubes. Torque the crossover tube nut to 11 foot/pounds. This will now seat the crossover tubes into the port of the injectors. 7. Now torque all the injector hold-down bolts to 89 inch/pounds. Make sure to alternate back and forth and not get one side buried into the bottom. Should be even and level. 8. Torque the crossover tube nuts to 37 foot/pounds. You will need a 24mm socket and then torque the crossover tube nuts. NOTE: You need a T10 Torx driver to remove the MAP/IAT sensor to gain room for torquing crossover tube #4. 9. Inspect the o-ring gasket before installing and replace it if any damage is seen. Reinstall the lower half of the valve cover. There are seven 10mm bolts. Remember, the front and rear have a bolt near the sealing lip. 10. Hook up all the injector wiring back to each injector. There is no polarity to the injector, so it doesn't matter which wire goes on which post. Do not over-torque the wire nuts; they only need 11 inch/pounds of torque. Plug in the 3 engine harness plugs to the lower half. 11. Install the exhaust rocker in the order you had laid out. Make sure the push rods are down in each tappet. The torque on the hold-down bolt is 35 foot/pounds. Be aware that maybe a few cylinders where the tappet is up on the cam lobe, but also even a pushrod that isn't seated will look similar. Make sure the pushrods are in the tappets. If you kept the rockers in order, then you would not need to do a valve lash. 12. Install all six high-pressure rails between the rail and the crossover tubes. If you kept them in the order, it shouldn't be too hard. Torque the line nuts to 22 foot/pounds. 13. Reinstall the upper valve cover and crankcase vent tubes. The six valve cover bolts are torqued to 18 foot/pounds. 14. Check the condition of the grid heater gaskets. Replace if needed. Reinstall the air horn and grid heater. Torque the four 10mm bolts to 120 inch/pounds. 15. Attach the dipstick tube with the one 10mm bolt. Tighten snug. 16. Tighten the intake boot clamp.

Oil ChangeMaterials Required3 Gallons (12 quarts) 15W-40 Engine Oil when temperatures are above 0*F (-17*C) Use only Diesel Engine Oil meeting standard MIL-2104C or API Classification CD or higher or CCML D4, D5. Petroleum Based. 3 Gallons (12 quarts) 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil when temperatures fall below -5*F (-15*C) Oil Filter Do NOT use Fram Oil Filter there is a TSB concerning the use of Fram Oil filters. Tools3/8 Ratchet Oil Filter Wrench 4 Gallon Drain Pan ProcedureStart the truck and drive the truck till it is up to full operating temperature. Bring it back home and park on flat level ground. Grab your engine oil drain pan and place it under the engine oil pan. Grab that 3/8 ratchet and loosen the engine oil drain plug on the engine oil pan. The square tip of the 3/8 ratchet will fit the drain plug perfectly. Now be careful that engine oil will be hot, a pair of nitrile gloves will guard your hand against hot oil splashing on your hands. Another way is to unscrew the drain plug and just drop the plug into the drain pan you can fish it out with a magnet. Next, you want to spin the oil filter off double check you have the rubber gasket on the oil filter and its not stuck to the filter mount base. Again be careful the engine oil and oil filter are going to be hot. I would suggest allowing it to drain for at least a good 1 hour. If you want the best results I do this in the evening and allow it to drain all night long. In the morning I install the drain plug and the oil filter. When installing the oil filter make sure to lube the rubber gasket with a small amount of clean engine oil. Spin the filter till the oil filter seal makes contact. Then tighten with your hand 3/4 of a turn and stop. WARNING: Do not tighten an oil filter using a filter wrench you can over-tighten and cause the rubber gasket of the oil filter to weep or leak from deforming the rubber seal. WARNING: I know a lot of people don't like dry starts and will prefill the oil filter with oil. I do not suggest this being if any materials or debris gets in the center hole of the oil filter it will be the first debris to the bearings and oil jets. It can do serious engine damage. If you want to prefill an oil filter make sure to plug the center hole and fill from the outer ring of small holes. These smaller holes are the inlet of the dirty filter from the oil pump. I've seen an engine ruined from a mouse turd that was in a bottle of Chevron Delo because the bottles are molded and left opened till filled so the mouse turd was poured into the oil filter and when the engine ran it plugged an oil cooler jet and fried a piston. Reinstall the drain plug. The FSM book shows that the torque is 37 foot-pounds. I've never used a torque wrench to install the drain plug. Now you'll want to fill the crankcase with fresh oil. Open the fill cap on the valve cover. Use a wide-mouth funnel and fill the crankcase with 3 gallons of engine oil. Again the oil typically is 15w-40 petroleum-based. Synthetics are not required for summer usage. Winter time with temperatures below -5*F consistently you need to switch over synthetic 5W-40 for winter time operation. After filling with oil and the oil cap is replaced on the valve cover. Start the engine up and watch the oil pressure gauge and verify there is oil pressure within about 10 seconds. If no oil pressure shut it down and investigate why the oil pressure isn't coming up. Once you see oil pressure get back out of the cab while it's running and verify the oil filter is not weeping or leaking. Then shut down the engine and allow to stand for a few minutes and check your level again to make sure it shows full on the dipstick.

How To Display Engine Hours On The OdometerWhat Is NeededIgnition Keys ProcedureThis is an easy process to check the total hours on the engine. First off insert your ignition key and turn the key on but do not start. Quickly pressed and hold the trip button until the odometer display switches over to displaying hours. You'll know that the hours are being displayed. The odometer display shows the Hr prefix for the hour number displayed. PurposeIf you happen to be using your truck in a manner that has extended idle times or possible PTO usage or using an 12-volt electric winch where the truck is idling for an extended period you can base your maintenance off the hour meter instead of the odometer which will not account for extended idling times.