Mopar1973Man

Now to figure out which side or both sides? Assuming rear axle. How about the from axle?

I got a little bit done today with Thor. I've now got bumpers on Thor. The rear bumper is off a 2005 Dodge Hemi and fits perfect. I got it bolted up and license plate on the rear bumper. Looks good. Now the front bumper is off a 4th Gen truck doesn't quite fit right. Its a bumper and will have to do for the time being. Now the other problem is the electrical is strange but 2006 was a single year where the taillights was totally different. It's like the 2007 for all the plugs and everything works but the brake lights. Now the 2005 wiring the main plug at the fender in the front is way different. I got a another butchered tail light loom and got it for free because it was a trainwreck cut wires everywhere. I got the plugs I needed for the tail lights now start testing for signals for brakes, turn, running lights, and backup lights. Yup it all works just got to modify my loom to have the new plugs on the ends. Mark is going to chase some solder and shrink tubing so I can get this wired up. Side note also... I went out this morning thinking I just fire up and move the truck near the shop. The batteries were near dead. Enough to light the dash but not enough to even kick the starter. Thor is sitting out front of the shop with a battery charger for the night.

That would work, just be sure to be on stable ground like asphalt or concrete. I wouldn't do this on dirt. Yes, you are correct if you pull the shafts in the rear axle, yes, then it's just the driveshaft. Stuff a rag in the axle tubes, it might push gear oil down the shaft ends while you are running the driveshaft. It's a good idea, and I'm waiting for the reply.

Have you checked the wheels for being true? Have you pulled both driveshafts and had them checked for true and balanced? Have you checked both front and rear wheel bearings for any sloppy bearings?

I would suggest you have the ABS computer reflashed with the proper tone wheel size and then rev/mile of your current tires. First off measure your AC noise voltage from the alternator after it has been driven and full warmed up. It should measure less than 0.05 Volts AC. Be aware you need a quality DVM that can measure small AC Voltages and multi-frequencies. Being fully warmed up, to ensure the grid heaters are off. Keep the engine running so the restart doesn't trip the grid heater again. I would highly suggest you do the W-T ground wire mod. You really need to get the TCC to lock up. Without the TCC working, you could create a lot of fluid temperature, so be careful. I really wonder if the noise issues is so bad the filter can get it to shift correctly.

I had to make a return trip and try to find the right wiring for a 2006 Dodge Ram. The weird part is that a 2005 tail light loom has different plugs than the 2006 main plug. The 2007 loom is totally different and is missing the white/tan lead for brake light, assuming that there is a turn signal stalk that cancels and supplies the brake signal down the turn signal lead like typical. Nope, Thor is different, where he has a separate tail light bulb for a brake light. Being I cannot get a 2006 loom for the tail lights at this time, I'm going to hack this up and make it work being right now the 2007 loom actually works perfectly for everything but brake lights. Since the white/tan lead is there, I can adapt the new plug that fits a sealed beam tail light. This is going to be fun too. 🤨

Check your PCM power wire for BD noise filter and remove it. Make you have a solid 12V at the power wire of the PCM. One other member @pepsi71ocean had this problem cause by a poorly installed BD noise filter.

Not lift pump relay the Vp44 relay.

Thank you! 😁

Fuel pump relay is in the PDC which controls power the the VP44 injection pump. Yes a bad relay will set a P1689 code if the relay is bad or no power given to the VP44.

Try unhooking the Quadzilla CANBus lead. See if the Quadzilla causing the CANBus to fail. Another to check the fuel pump relay it could cause this P1689 bad power contacts.

My adventure with Thor was similar. I was having injector issues. Just got to make the first step and call and see what @dieselautopower can do for you.

My last one was a Ford Pickup, and I laid waste to him at about 110 MPH running Beast. Yeah, these trucks can run and really pull like a mule. Beast I just tucked in the garage today for his long nap. Beast can sometimes fry the tires just by accelerating up to highway speeds, like getting up to 80 to 85 MPH for I-84 here in southern Idaho. Now I'll tell you engine heat will not affect the PSG. If you take a look at... The top lid has an air space between the top and the PSG circuit board. The PSG circuit board is actually heatsinked to the fuel side, hence why I asked about the fuel temperature being high. Fuel temperatures will be hard on the PSG, and also the fuel being above 140℉ or 150℉, you'll see your fuel filter plug up faster with asphaltenes.

You might end up eating that VP44 but just maybe... I'll leave the lights on for ya and just post up.

Depends on the location of the straw for the temperature. Hopefully, your straw is in the main fuel tank and not the sender basket. I'm assuming you are in the main tank area, being the 1/8 tank drop in pressure on hard sloosh. That would net you cooler temperatures in the fuel, being the hot fuel is kept in the sender basket. Is your warranty still good on the VP44 pump?

If possible, maybe you could try unhooking the wire tap and see. No need to remove the entire splice, just unhook the wire. I think it's a heat issue on the PSG. By chance, what does the Quadzilla show for fuel temperatures?