Mopar1973Man

Radiator has to come out first then the intercooler can be removed. The radiator lower neck won't pass IIRC.

You'll need the newer electronics in the cab. Most of that stuff is CANBus controlled. Like the fan speed switch is not like ours. It CANBus signal to the TIPM for control of the blower. Take note newer truck don't even have a relay for blower motor or the A/C compressor it's all controlled by the TIPM.

As long as your not venting oil your fine... Nothing is wrong the engine is in good condition. Little soot coming past the rings and good long drain periods can net clean oil for quite a while. Would be a good suggestion to wash out the intercooler so it doesn't cake up in time. Also consider rebuilding the turbo. Turbo rebuild kits are super cheap like 50 to 70 bucks and fairly easy to do.

NO TAPE or SEALANT the sensor needs a good ground contact. Tape or sealant will foul the signal or make it not read at all. Brass is typically self sealing. Passing though too. Is never use any sealant or tape on any oil fittings. The other problem is if any tape or sealant go into the oil system it could plug oil cooling jet(s) or mess up the bearings very quickly.

I've been researching the LED angle too for my 1996 Dodge. Trying to find a good quality LED bulb that holds a good pattern.

Use the trans temp sensor it will fit the test port on the filter head. Trans temp on mine is just below the coolant which is my oil temp.

My trips to Ontario and back home. I climb 3 grades roughly 6% on all three and then rolling hills the rest of the way. Highest elevation is 4,400 feet and drop down to 2100 feet roughly. So, yes you can. Scale the truck and then look at way so reduce weight and wind drag. Rotation mass and rotational resistance is the biggest ones to kill MPG. Wind drag is anything above 55 MPH you need to get more aerodynamic. Final gear ratio is optimal at 3.55 to 3.73 now I've got to ask what size tires are you running? Your running too much drag. Advance the timing should reduce boost. The trick I use is watch the oil temperature. If your tuned correctly your oil temp should always be lower than coolant. I'm now just tipping -30*F from coolant. So if the coolant is 192*F my oil temperature is barely 162*F on semi-flat ground and cruise set at 65 MPH even better yet 15*F outside. If you advance too far the oil temp will rise more. As you retard the oil temp will fall. This is due to over advancing will heat more of the cylinder wall and the coolant near the oil cooler this makes it tough to dump heat into coolant that is already heated. Matter of fact I've just changed my timing again and just about got it nailed. Start at 13, 17, 21, 25. This dropped just about 3* of oil temp. This is all based on what the cetane level is locally to you. As cetane goes UP (45-50) the timing must RETARD. As cetane goes DOWN (40) timing must ADVANCE. This is the basis for my high idle and MPG mode. HE351 and my Hybrid 35/40 are the same just about. HE351 is a 60/60/9 Hybrid 35/40 is a 60/60/12 Optimally you should be near 0 boost while rolling. I'm typically like 0 to 5 PSI for most all highway stuff. Interstate is more like 5 to 10 PSI. Hill climb 6% maybe 10 to 13 PSI.

No. Cummins and Mopar do not manufacture any thermostats. NAPA has been very solid for me. I replace more Cummins thermostats than NAPA.

No. Speedometer will be gone. You can unplug a front sensor to trip a code and disable the ABS.

Engine load is based on timing and drag. Turbo has nothing to do per se in engine load. My typical boost is only 2 to 4 PSI at 65 MPH. Timing is related to cetane of your fuel. Next one is drag lifts, leveling, oversized tires, etc will increase drag.

I would opt for 315 bar for those 7 x 0.009 injectors. Any shop can do pop testing.

Just a cheap NAPA 120 dollar radiator. I think it was a spectra radiator. My factory blew the rubber seal. Repairable.

Bearing will be fine most likely but the tone ring will have spun free and broke its spot welds.

B5 which most of Ontario runs. Like now I will not use biodiesel is too risky for gelling issues so I can run a new test in the late spring.

Start out typically at 305 or 300 bar. Bottom limit is 293 bar. By 260 bar engine load typically bottoms out 0 engine load. Hence why I started at 320 bar for economy and longevity reasons. Upper limit from the Dodge FSM is 327 bar.

Try again... 250 miles per day minimum. Idled in the garage this morning 20 minutes, then while I'm waiting today 4.5 hours ill be idling most of that time trying to stay warm. My day will be 13 hours long sitting in the driver seat. 3 days a week (TTS). Funny part only the Quad has issues. My Bluetooth headset work prefect, blue tooth speaker perfect, Bluetooth stereo no problems, Quad... 50/50 hit miss.

Yeah got it...

That green marker was 120 mile round trip to Boise running the interstate at 82 MPH @ 2500 RPMs. Just short at 19.92 MPG. Remember for every 1 pound of rotational mass you can remove is like 8 pounds off the frame weight. Oh 405k miles on the clock. Injectors are good still with 7 to 12% idle engine load. That 320 bar pop pressure really helps.

Yes you need to change all the unit bearing in the front with new sensors and the problem will be solved. Note of warning you could replace the sensors alone but if the tone rings are damaged in the hubs it will not fix the problem. What it is that the sensor is reading on wheel at ZERO speed and you touch the pedal the ABS will back pump the pedal and prevent braking because it thinks one wheel is already locked up tight and trying to get the speed back. Been there done this... Just remember I've got 3 sets of sensors and never fixed it till I replace both front unit bearings then the lights went out and problem solved.

Me its about the monthly budget. Currently about $600 to $650 a month in fuel to keep Mom going to dialysis. Then you break it down and figure the cost per mile 0.16 to 0.19 cents per mile. Then when looking at fuel prices... 10 gallon price - I use this measure more so than price per gallon. I never buy just 1 gallon. Typically 12 to 14 gallons. John Day - 30.39 Molalla - 30.09 34.09 Ontario for me... Ontario - 34.59 Payette ID - 32.99 New Meadows 34.59 Riggins - 33.59 Cost per mile is a measure also that shows rate of usage vs cost. MPG is only a small window of info.

I'm located the same way in my cab too. The only difference I called Quadzilla and talked them and got the go ahead to extend the cable into the cab which was cut and soldered and shrink tube. (Beta test request) Works but this way but still issues with connection and retrying to connect for miles before it actually does connect.

The stock is 1/4 turn then pull out and the another 1/4 turn to open. My new radiator is just a threaded plug in the radiator.

LED for sure is NO. It will not melt any snow or ice. HID is maybe depends on how fast the snow is falling and how cold. Up here with -20*F and heavy snow will bury the lens over. Typically no issues. I've only had my HID cover over twice now that's it. The LED's for sure are covered every single trip. In bad storm I'll stop from time to time to just clear the LED's but the HID typically will barely burn a hole through on warmer days (20 to 32*F).

Funny thing I just scaled my truck. Front was 4,400 pounds, the rear was 2,900 pounds, for a total of 7,300 pounds currently. Here is current fuel logs with winterized fuel and outside temps between 0*F and 25*F most days. Remember I went down in tire size to increase the rear ratio. Going from 265's to 245's change the final ratio to 3.69:1 which is super quick and extremely low in engine load at 22-25% at 80 MPH. My 65 MPH is rough 15-17% engine load.

Dead pedal - is when the throttle does nothing period but idle. Limited Pedal - is when the throttle works but limits to a particular road speed or RPM. Now if there is a APPS issues with dead pedal it will ALWAYS set a code. Now a dead pedal without a code is typically the VP44 PSG failing. This is because the ECM commands a value that is out of range and the PSG is protecting from a wide open throttle or below idle fueling which would stall the engine. Limited pedal is typically the ECM being the fueling map is damaged.